Suspension parts for BMW's.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=
Suspension parts for BMW's.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=
Nice RC car!!! Besides making all sorts of little parts for work (I build test fixtures), I make these in my "spare" time... HVAC controllers for Replica Lamborghini's. I milled the buttons, made a mold of them and cast them in black plastic, then mill out the backs and fill with white plastic. I use a modified Taig mill and a .010" endmill to cut the graphics. I've cut some AL and steel parts for my engine swap projects before as well.. Of course, once you get started, you always want bigger. The Taig has way too small of a cutting area for the parts I want to make.![]()
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Those are cool. Do you have more pictures of the button process?
-Adam
www.adambrunette.com - Converting My Harbor Freight X2 And My Jet Jvm-830 Knee Mill, As well as many other projects.
Unfortunately no.. It's really too labor-intensive for any type of production, but I do it anyway. LOL One "blank" button was machined, then a silicone mold made. (Smooth-On "OOMOO" works good) 11 "blanks" were then cast from 2-part urethane resin. The blanks were then machined with the graphics for each button. Another 2 molds were made of the buttons, now with graphics about .040" deep. (deepest I could go in the center with the .010" endmill) Now I cast up a load of buttons. Then into the machine they go, to have the back removed down to the graphics so they now pass all the way through. (leaving some "bridges" here and there to keep the tiny hanging details from breaking off) Then into a "blank" silicone mold with a smooth surface pressing against the front. I screw a lid with holes in it over the top to press the buttons firmly against the mold. Then fill the backs with white plastic, first a little bit and into the vacuum chamber to fill all the tiny areas, then fill the rest and into the pressure chamber while it sets up. Then pop them out, and you have buttons with graphics.Now if you want them to light up, you mill out the back *again* so the white part in the front is thin, then fill in with clear resin from the back. That's the part I'm having trouble with, I keep cutting through the sides due to the backlash in the Taig. (egg-shaped circles!) So I upgraded the Taig with some ballscrews and ball-slides for ways, but haven't tried the buttons yet. I can rapid at 400IPM, and have almost no backlash. I hope it works tonight.. Now if only I had the time to make one of those RC cars on Page 1.... The stuff I make is "neat", but the stuff these other guys make is freaking incredible...
It's kind of half-Taig half-mutant now... Not sure it quite qualifies as a "Taig" anymore..I basically ripped off the X and Y axis and replaced them with a set of Thomson Superslide linear stages bolted together. I kept the Taig Z axis and ER16 setup. I almost sheared off a finger when it got caught between the working plate and the end of the Superslide as I was cleaning off the ballscrew. (probably 150IPM into my finger with a "shearing" movement.. I let go of the button as soon as I felt the horrible pain. If it had been G-code I'm sure I would have sheared off the finger or at least cut it horribly. The slides can generate 650lbs of force, probably less with my 280-ish OZ motors..) I need to make some "way" covers to keep chips and my fingers out. I'll have to take some pictures and find the Taig thread. I don't want to take this one off topic any more than I have...
Lets see some more projects guys! Anyone do any RC helicopter parts?
I have made a few parts for my cycle trials bike
Here's an example. It is a serrated "bash ring" which protects the chain and chainring, and also provides sufficient grip when I have to land on it
MDF Prototype:
Finished bash ring, with added spline to fit the crank arm:
Nice snug fit
And a shot from the front:
It has been on my bike for a while now, and works nicely![]()