[brianwent2work]

:banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::b anana::banana:

I just clicked the order button on the web about an hour ago. I can’t wait for it to come. I hope it makes it threw the shipping with no damage.

How hard was it to take the carriage off?

It is going in the basement, so it is going down the steps…omg, what have I gotten my self in to.

[Crevice Reamer]

Hi Brian. Congratulations and welcome to the Zone!

If you unmount all of the accessories and maybe remove the cross slide and chuck, you can probably get the weight down to around 200 LBs. Get some help.

You should be able to figure everything out from the manual:

http://grizzly.com/images/manuals/g0602_m.pdf

Don't forget to fill the gearbox.

CR.

[brianwent2work]

Grizzly.com---We are currently out of stock of the G0602 10x22 Lathe and expect to receive a shipment on approximately February 6, 2009

That is so sad. but that is not that faraway. It will give me time to get the bench put together.

[acondit]

Grizzly.com---We are currently out of stock of the G0602 10x22 Lathe and expect to receive a shipment on approximately February 6, 2009

That is so sad. but that is not that faraway. It will give me time to get the bench put together.

Brian,

My experience with Grizzly has been that stuff often arrives sooner than their estimate. In my book that is a good deal. So don't be surprised if it arrives before Feb. 6th.

Alan

[Crevice Reamer]

Ditto!

CR.

[Stuff-Builder]

Congrats, Brian! I've had a ball with my machine so far. It's been lots of fun.
It's not that hard to disassemble the lathe. I tore mine apart and put it in my Mazda wagon in less than an hour. I left the headstock / gearbox on, which was still probably around 100-120 lb. Too much for me by myself.

As a bonus, when you tear the whole thing apart you can clean the grease off easier and more thoroughly, and you can make sure everything is tight and/or correctly adjusted.

Roger, I'm using 3/8" tools - the 41201 indexable set from CDCO. I didn't have to modify anything - set the height just fine.

Other updates and ponderings:

Found out I CAN stall the spindle motor - cutoff tool in a 2" dia piece of aluminum did the job. Yikes!

With the indexable tooling on aluminum, I've found I can take just about as deep a turning pass as I can stomach. Lots of power there.

The indexables do chip pretty easily, though. I'll need to order more soon.

Made a groovy aluminum shift knob for my Miata - I'll have to post a picture as some point!

Question: what's a good way to accurately index or cut in the Z direction (towards the spindle)? I've found adjusting the X direction to be straightforward and very accurate using the cross-slide dial. On the big pro lathes I've used there's usually a DRO, which makes easy work of this. But on this guy I'm not sure what to do. I've messed with measuring from the end of the part to the cutter with calipers, which works OK. Is there some magic trick I should learn?

Scott

[123CNC]

Question: what's a good way to accurately index or cut in the Z direction (towards the spindle)? I've found adjusting the X direction to be straightforward and very accurate using the cross-slide dial. On the big pro lathes I've used there's usually a DRO, which makes easy work of this. But on this guy I'm not sure what to do. I've messed with measuring from the end of the part to the cutter with calipers, which works OK. Is there some magic trick I should learn?

Scott

Two quick and dirty solutions, travel stop or dial gauge. Usually clamping on to the ways between the saddle and head. A simple travel stop may have a single fine thread stop with lock nut. For multiple operations, a multiple stop could be used.

[GerPen]

Howdy
Has anyone made a tailstock quill camlock lever for the G0602?
The stock lever is difficult to mate with the nut underneath and the teeth are starting to show wear.
Gerry the newbie

[Crevice Reamer]

Howdy
Has anyone made a tailstock quill camlock lever for the G0602?
The stock lever is difficult to mate with the nut underneath and the teeth are starting to show wear.
Gerry the newbie

Hi Gerry. Welcome to the Zone!

It's a fairly standard type tail stock, so any of THESE methods should work:


http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe...ck/Camlock.htm

http://bedair.org/9x20camlock/9x20camlock.html

http://warhammer.mcc.virginia.edu/ty...ger/Tailstock/

http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/CamLock.html

CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

Two quick and dirty solutions, travel stop or dial gauge. Usually clamping on to the ways between the saddle and head. A simple travel stop may have a single fine thread stop with lock nut. For multiple operations, a multiple stop could be used.

One example of dial gauge method:

http://www.varmintal.com/alath.htm#Calibrate_Tailstock

CR.

[DRL]

Great thread as I have been trying to decide on what I want. One thing I noticed, the lathes on both sides of this one(the 9x19 and the 11x26) have both a half nut lever and a power feed lever. The 10x20 only has the half nut lever. All 3 can do the same tasks so how does it work, more of a PITA? Also do these lathes have oil in the apron, I could not see a oil level window in the pics on line.

Thanks
DRL

[Hans_G]

I've been mulling over purchasing one of these for months and now the itch is getting pretty bad. Problem is I have no immediate need, just tons of desire and rationalization (like I can sell my sherline on ebay and cover 40-50% of the cost). I even went as far as putting one in my cart and getting the approval from BillMeLater so I don't have to pay for 6 months. I need someone to just nudge me over the edge. HELP!!!

[Stuff-Builder]

Hans, these machines are a lot of fun! They are definitely not little toys. I would never call myself a skilled machinist, and I've been able to make aluminum parts to .001 tolerances. Maybe nothing special to the pros out there, but I'm pretty happy with it for garage work.

On the Z-axis measurement we were discussing, I clamped my dial indicator to the lathe bed and that did a pretty good job of indicating Z-travel, and it sure was quick and easy.

I also saw this:

http://www.woodpeck.com/remotedigitalreadout.html

I thought that might be a nice way to get an el-cheapo DRO. I think permanent mount to the carriage, and a simple clamp for the bed would do the job nicely. The .001" resolution and almost 5" of travel would suit my needs pretty well. Heck, you could use the same thing on the cross-slide.

I'm going to start my first hairy-scary project soon: I'm going to try to modify my old Gorton 8D quill to accept a new set of bearings and spindle from a Super X3. Just ordered a 3/4" x 10" boring bar. I'm a bit worried that the quill is hardened on the inside and will scoff at my efforts. Stay tuned, sports fans...

Scott

[Mike Everman]

Anyone figure out yet where to fix the leak in the sump? I haven't started tearing into it yet, as I'm not using the feed, but I would definitely like to know if this has a quick fix. My wife gave me the "what's that smell" and for once it was not me!

[Crevice Reamer]

I've been mulling over purchasing one of these for months and now the itch is getting pretty bad. Problem is I have no immediate need, just tons of desire and rationalization (like I can sell my sherline on ebay and cover 40-50% of the cost). I even went as far as putting one in my cart and getting the approval from BillMeLater so I don't have to pay for 6 months. I need someone to just nudge me over the edge. HELP!!!

* Plenty of power.
* One horsepower motor
* One inch spindle bore.
* Heavy and rigid enough to do some REAL work.
* Some Nifty free accessories.
* If you buy right now, Shipping from Grizzly is FREE!

Six months to pay? How can you go wrong?

IMH, this lathe is the best-bang-for-a-buck. A CR Best Buy!

CR.

[Mike Everman]

Yeah, it's a great lathe. I love mine. BTW, I just talked to tech support, and the guy said the leak is not a common thing, and that it's likely coming out from behind the control cover. I'll take that off and seal it with silicone and see if that works. Doesn't look like too much of a project. Hasn't soured me on the lathe, it's sweet.
My tailstock was .001" high and I started lapping it in, then thought, waitaminnit, c'mon, it's only a thou! ha
I can't believe you can get something so cool for about $2 a pound.

[Crevice Reamer]

Anyone figure out yet where to fix the leak in the sump? I haven't started tearing into it yet, as I'm not using the feed, but I would definitely like to know if this has a quick fix. My wife gave me the "what's that smell" and for once it was not me!

It's usually the o ring on the sight glass.

See post # 83.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...t=32939&page=7

CR.

[Mike Everman]

Nice, thanks. How did I miss that? I even had posts on that page!

[Stuff-Builder]

My gearbox has that little drip too, but I haven't bothered tearing it apart yet. It's only a little drip, after all. One of these days I'll investigate.

I made the mistake of tearing apart the head on my compressor "to fix that tiny leak" and now the damn thing's been apart for about three weeks.

Gotta be careful to not create too much work for myself!

[Hans_G]

thanks for the nudges guys. I ordered mine about 2 weeks ago, was quoted backorder til end of May, but then yesterday got an email from Grizzly saying it'll be delivered on Monday. Awesome... except when I saw the end o' May delivery date I put off starting on the bench for it. Well, now I've got a(nother) project for the weekend