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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    1260
    Quote Originally Posted by Dustin407 View Post
    I am getting ready to order some paint for my waterbed table before it starts rusting to hell. Not the actual waterbed itself (out of alum)but just the metal stand in the pictures below.. What kind of paint should I use, I was thinking of the DP-40 epoxy paint or sandable primer and enamel. Im not sure on what to use.. Any suggestions in the paint realm....??
    Might be worth checking out the POR-15 line of products. The POR-15 primer is specifically designed for use over bare & rusty metal. I have used it on badly pitted rusty metai & it does do what they say for stopping rust in it's tracks. http://www.por15.com/

    The POR-15 primer really does quite well being brushed on. I was amazed that brush marks were just about non existent.
    If it works.....Don't fix it!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    102
    Quote Originally Posted by millman52 View Post
    Might be worth checking out the POR-15 line of products. The POR-15 primer is specifically designed for use over bare & rusty metal. I have used it on badly pitted rusty metai & it does do what they say for stopping rust in it's tracks. http://www.por15.com/

    The POR-15 primer really does quite well being brushed on. I was amazed that brush marks were just about non existent.
    I can attest to the durability and effectiveness of POR-15. I bought their "starter pack" about a year ago to use on an old, rusty trailer that was sitting in some weeds in my backyard and the results were amazing. I brushed it on to eliminate wasting paint due to overspray (POR-15 isn't cheap) and like millman said, the brush marks are non existent. This stuff also goes on THICK and covers very well so you can usually get away with a single coat. Be warned that it is light sensitive and its color will dull if left in direct sunlight, but its corrosion/rust protection properties remain.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    1260
    Quote Originally Posted by TerraWombat View Post
    I can attest to the durability and effectiveness of POR-15. I bought their "starter pack" about a year ago to use on an old, rusty trailer that was sitting in some weeds in my backyard and the results were amazing. I brushed it on to eliminate wasting paint due to overspray (POR-15 isn't cheap) and like millman said, the brush marks are non existent. This stuff also goes on THICK and covers very well so you can usually get away with a single coat. Be warned that it is light sensitive and its color will dull if left in direct sunlight, but its corrosion/rust protection properties remain.
    I bought it to use on a truck dump body. POR-15 recomends the primer be top coated with another product to protect from sun damage.

    The primer WILL NOT remove from skin if it dries there either. You literally have to wear it off.

    POR 15 might be overkill for a plasma table in general but for a water tray..... Build it set it outside & let turn orange from light rust & REMOVE ALL MILL SCALE. Dry off & coat with POR-15 primer. I think it would be a nearly forever finish.
    If it works.....Don't fix it!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    102
    Quote Originally Posted by millman52 View Post
    The primer WILL NOT remove from skin if it dries there either. You literally have to wear it off.
    I painted the frame on my Jeep project with POR-15 and got a bit on my hands and arm. This was maybe three weeks ago and the stuff on my arm finally wore off a couple days ago. I found that if you get it on your hands, it'll come off in only a few days if you're constantly doing manual labor like I am. I also found that if you let your hands get "pruney" in the shower, it'll scrape off relatively easy.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    227

    Wink

    Thanks Millman and Terra for all the advice... Before I got a chance to read everyones post I went to a Tractor Supply store a day ago and bought Industrial Enamel made by Valspar. This paint is not regular enamel it comes with a hardener which is almost like an epoxy paint. I talked to a couple farmers in the store that painted their tractors and implements with valspar before and said it is some good ****..lol. It must be a great paint because tractors and tow behind equipment endure some of the most brutal conditions possible... Sun, rain, abuse, dust, full dirt contact... etc. For the one gal. prim. and one gal paint it was $87.00 The only downside to the valspar their was only five ugly colors to choose from, so I bought gloss black. I still have my receipt if you think I should get the Por-15 instead???, I can take back what I have already purchased. Thanks again for the advice..

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    102
    Quote Originally Posted by Dustin407 View Post
    Thanks Millman and Terra for all the advice... Before I got a chance to read everyones post I went to a Tractor Supply store a day ago and bought Industrial Enamel made by Valspar. This paint is not regular enamel it comes with a hardener which is almost like an epoxy paint. I talked to a couple farmers in the store that painted their tractors and implements with valspar before and said it is some good ****..lol. It must be a great paint because tractors and tow behind equipment endure some of the most brutal conditions possible... Sun, rain, abuse, dust, full dirt contact... etc. For the one gal. prim. and one gal paint it was $87.00 The only downside to the valspar their was only five ugly colors to choose from, so I bought gloss black. I still have my receipt if you think I should get the Por-15 instead???, I can take back what I have already purchased. Thanks again for the advice..
    I have never used Valspar, but I've heard numerous positive results from others. I don't think you need to take it back based on the recommendations that millman and I made because, like he said, POR-15 may be overkill for a plasma cutter. I'm also curious to see what you think of this paint as I've contemplated using it on a few projects that I have going, but aren't worth enough for me to use my POR-15 stash

    Just make sure you prep the metal properly or no matter what paint you use, it won't turn out right.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    227

    Alum. waterbed Cont...

    The last couple nights I have been trying to finish up the waterbed. I used 3-m epoxy (820) and blind rivets to install the alum. L-channel to the alum. plate. This will increase its overall structural strength and keep the tank from leaking. I filled it up with water a few hours after the glue set and I was suprised ...NO Leaks...wooooohoooo I will have more pics next week..
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails P1010511.jpg   P1010513.jpg   P1010515.jpg   P1010516.jpg  


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