[HackMax]

Manual tapping sucks! Any alternatives out there?

Thanks,

Rick

[hoss2006]

You can make a cheap simple tapping attachment that works great or you can pick up
a Procunier or similar attachment.
Hoss

[samco]

Yes - emc2!

This is even using printer ports.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C740zS9R9kk"]YouTube - Rigid Tapping M3X 5 750rpm[/ame]

read about his setup here..
http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?Pjm

http://www.linuxcnc.org/index.php

sam

[HackMax]

You can make a cheap simple tapping attachment that works great or you can pick up
a Procunier or similar attachment.
Hoss

Thanks Hoss. I remembered that when you first did it. Great job. What is the specs on the stepper? With all the torque I'm using to tap these holes I was worried about not having enough torque from the stepper. Might be my tap. What tap are you using? What would be better a 2 or 4 flute tap? What do you think about this tool?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=97546

I'm thinking for about the same cost I can get the stepper and driver and have it for other uses as well.

Thanks again Hoss,
Rick

[HackMax]

Yes - emc2!

This is even using printer ports.

read about his setup here..
http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?Pjm

http://www.linuxcnc.org/index.php

sam

Thanks Sam. I don't think I have the proper equipment for this yet but it's nice to know that EMC2 is such a great tool. My spindle has no auto speed control - wouldn't you need to know the exact spindle speed to coordinate the the z?

Rick

[hoss2006]

That was only a 270 oz/in N23 motor and it tapped up to 1/2-13 holes.
The tap was a 2 flute gun tap that are made for power tapping and need less torque to cut.
A bigger motor could let you use a regular tap.
that's a great deal at HF, I'll have to add a link on my site.
Hoss

[samco]

The only hardware you need is an encoder (3 channel) attached to the spindle. like the example above - he is using a 360ppr encoder. 3 inputs open for the abz encoder signals. Emc also needs to be able to revearse the spindle. EMC tracks z by the encoder attached to the spindle. 'spindle synced motion'

The printer port has its limits as far as how fast it can count... But you see from the above example what is possible.

sam

Thanks Sam. I don't think I have the proper equipment for this yet but it's nice to know that EMC2 is such a great tool. My spindle has no auto speed control - wouldn't you need to know the exact spindle speed to coordinate the the z?

Rick

[HackMax]

The only hardware you need is an encoder (3 channel) attached to the spindle. like the example above - he is using a 360ppr encoder. 3 inputs open for the abz encoder signals. Emc also needs to be able to revearse the spindle. EMC tracks z by the encoder attached to the spindle. 'spindle synced motion'

The printer port has its limits as far as how fast it can count... But you see from the above example what is possible.

sam

This is worth a better look. Won't work for me this time because I'm going to finish this today but I have lots to read up on. I just need to add a reversing relay to the mill. Thanks for the links btw. I just glanced through it but lots of info.

Rick

[DareBee]

With a floating tap head you only need to be close to the same with Z speed.
With a Procunier, it will feed itself once started and self reverse (these work great in a drill press). This is the same technology is the emco you have posted. If you have through holes a Spiral point (gun tap) machine tap meant for aluminum will work great.
You could invest in one of these http://www.flexarminc.com/tapping-arm.html if your spindle drive is not strong enough.

[slashmaster]

Nice place to keep your spindle locking wrench, what kind of base is that? I've never seen a base like that on an X3, is it covered in concrete or something?

[HackMax]

Nice place to keep your spindle locking wrench, what kind of base is that? I've never seen a base like that on an X3, is it covered in concrete or something?

It is a standard grizzly x3 machine. The picture doesn't show the front is all. I finally finished the plate and can't wait to try it out. So many times I've needed a clamp on the y sides of the material and now it can be done. All of the plates I see being sold for the x3 still doesn't allow for the full y travel of a stock table and have clamps on the y side of the material. The conversion I did on the machine allows almost 8" of y travel so I needed a plate to fit and I got some 8.5" wide 6061. The facing didn't turn out the prettiest thing but it is flat and that's all I care.

Rick

[slashmaster]

It is a standard grizzly x3 machine. The picture doesn't show the front is all. I finally finished the plate and can't wait to try it out. So many times I've needed a clamp on the y sides of the material and now it can be done. All of the plates I see being sold for the x3 still doesn't allow for the full y travel of a stock table and have clamps on the y side of the material. The conversion I did on the machine allows almost 8" of y travel so I needed a plate to fit and I got some 8.5" wide 6061. The facing didn't turn out the prettiest thing but it is flat and that's all I care.

Rick

lol, I see now, my eyes played tricks on me in that first pic. I guess maybe you have a magnet holding the wrench for the drawbar on the side too? You should paint marks on the side of the spindle where the 2 little holes are so you won't have to feel for them or look underneath and have a different color mark for the keyway. It shaves time off my collet changes.

[MRM RCModels]

It is a standard grizzly x3 machine. The picture doesn't show the front is all. I finally finished the plate and can't wait to try it out. So many times I've needed a clamp on the y sides of the material and now it can be done. All of the plates I see being sold for the x3 still doesn't allow for the full y travel of a stock table and have clamps on the y side of the material. The conversion I did on the machine allows almost 8" of y travel so I needed a plate to fit and I got some 8.5" wide 6061. The facing didn't turn out the prettiest thing but it is flat and that's all I care.

Rick

I understand exactly what you mean. I made one too and love it. Thanks for the HF tapping head link. Now where's my credit card.....

[HackMax]

lol, I see now, my eyes played tricks on me in that first pic. I guess maybe you have a magnet holding the wrench for the drawbar on the side too? You should paint marks on the side of the spindle where the 2 little holes are so you won't have to feel for them or look underneath and have a different color mark for the keyway. It shaves time off my collet changes.

Great tip! Thanks.

Yeah I have magnets hold my wrenches on the front of the spindle head so I don't have to look for them lost in the swarf.

Rick

[Regnar]

I know your done but you can always do this in the future. Its easy and doesnt require the machine to know you spindle speed. They say though the tap is pretty expensive. [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OlfyvRU67o&feature=related"]YouTube - How to use Drill-CSK-Thread milling cutters video from Guhring[/ame]

Bob Warfield turn me to the really dark side by using a butterfly impact wrench and a wrench tap holders to do my taping. I did 16 holes into 3/8 steel using a 1/2" 13 cheap tap in under 3 minutes. You can read about it here cnccookbook.com there is also a link on how to make a flex arm, that is my next little project after I rebuild my mill.

There are also hand tappers that I have heard work pretty nice. You can find them on enco and the littlemachineshop. I have never used them but the look like they would work nice.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

I know your done but you can always do this in the future. Its easy and doesnt require the machine to know you spindle speed. They say though the tap is pretty expensive. YouTube - How to use Drill-CSK-Thread milling cutters video from Guhring

Bob Warfield turn me to the really dark side by using a butterfly impact wrench and a wrench tap holders to do my taping. I did 16 holes into 3/8 steel using a 1/2" 13 cheap tap in under 3 minutes. You can read about it here cnccookbook.com there is also a link on how to make a flex arm, that is my next little project after I rebuild my mill.

There are also hand tappers that I have heard work pretty nice. You can find them on enco and the littlemachineshop. I have never used them but the look like they would work nice.

Yikes! I just looked on MSC Direct, and the *cheapest* thread mill was $216!

Regards,
Ray L.

[Regnar]

I think it's just a drill bit turned down a little with some ridges. Probably could do it on the lathe?

[Enraged]

you can get single point thread cutters, they are cheaper.

the advantage of a thread mill like that is that you have a single tool to drill, chamfer, and thread the hole, so you save the time of tool changes, tool setup, etc. well worth the cost of the mill imho

[slashmaster]

Now this is a prime example of something that's new which is totally overpriced and then the price gradually comes down right? Because that sure doesn't look like it cost $216 to manufacture.

[Enraged]

I found another US company that sells these drill/countersink/thread mills, I'll post up the info when I get a reply from them.