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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    12177
    1/32" radius end mil is al standard item from SUPER CARBIDE, catalog number CRE-125-031.

    The body diameter is 1/8" and the tip diameter which is what is used for the tool diameter seems to be 1/16".

    We have a little plastic drawer containg six of them; we use them for finishing edges on our parts.
    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    435
    Thanks for the suggestion on Harvey Tool. They have exactly the cutter I need. I haven't seen these through any of the normal tool companies (enco, msc, etc.).

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    1389
    ENCO and msc sucks thats why,
    you have a real machine now you should seriously think about useing real tools

    Harvey tool I am finding out has more smaller stuff than I have ever seen, I used to get all my stuff custom made a the local tool grinding shop, or grind the simple stuff up myself.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    12177
    Okay I will take you seriously, here is a possible procedure; I believe you have multiple vises.

    Put 1/8" x 1/8" step jaws on all the vises; these you can make yourself using readily available blanks.

    Cut your 3/8" stock the maximum length possible for your X travel.

    Grip the stock in the step jaws and machine the feature on this face on about a 0.4 pitch.

    When all the first operation is done take two lengths of aluminum 2" x 3/4" flat bar; face the 2" sides nice and true and machine them to the same height as regular vise jaws.

    Take one of these bar and machine the feature in the large face near one edge on the same pitch you used for the stock pieces.

    Put a couple of pins in the machine bar so they just fit between adjacent vise jaws and maintain its position.

    Fit the regular vise jaws and put the machined bar against the fixed jaw; this bar is a custom fixed sub-jaw.

    Put the previously machined stock bars against the sub jaw and clamp them with the other machined bar, this is a moving sub jaw.

    Now machine the feature on the next side, then rotate this side against the sub-jaw and do the next side, ditto for the final side.

    Now you have all you stock machined on four sides.

    Get a cheap tile cutting saw, mount a 3" x 1/32" slitting saw on the arbor and you have a mini table saw to cut all the pieces apart.

    Now take a 1/4" thick aluminum bar and machine it so it is just tall enough to support the individual parts when you place them against the custom sub jaw.

    This time when clampin put a strip of hard rubber between the moving sub jaw and the parts so they are all clamped securely.

    Machine the feature in the remaining two faces and you are done.

    And don't tell me you cannot follow this because this time I cannot provide explanatory photographs nor am I competent enough to do drawings.
    An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    435
    What?! No pictures!? Got it. Thanks.

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