Does the black ring on the nose not unscrew into two parts ?
Does the black ring on the nose not unscrew into two parts ?
the black ring can not be unscrew because I think it has different thread I supposed.
I think they both the same the code for the bearing is HRB 7005CETA made in CHINA
I got 2 small bearings with those codes inside. Yes they are the same I guess??
ok now I got the bearings in. Do I need to GREASE the new bearings? or just let it be? What kind of grease should I use for that spindle bearing?
I would like to know if you already purchase and try that 4kw spindle motor and how it is performing? is it better than that 2.2kw watercooled one? Mined can just broke down reasonly becaue the bearing were broken and I am ordering a new one in the meantime but like to try a bigger maybe 4.4kw ~7 Kw possible with ER25 collet.
Thank you in advance.
Andy
I haven't bought the 4kw unit, although I'm still looking at the 3kw unit. I'm trying to find one that would be similar in size to the Colombo rv55 so that it'll fit on the Doughty b/c drive.
Ok I bought 2nd unit from Chai it is the same 2.2kw watercooled.
I just use it for 2 days and the bearing inside is broken again!!!
it is 7005CETA can someone tell me if NSK or SFK or german bearing have the same equivalent ones? those chinese bearings goes dead very2 fast!!!
now I need to take the new spindle out again for bearing replacement (the first one with the new replacement bearing goes dead the winding is shorted I guess).
updates: I took the new 2.2kw spindle apart and TMB 7005CTA/PDT looks ok but I'm sure it is not ok. Can I replace the 7005CTA with something that is really2 good? seems like I'm having problems with them bearings in the 2.2kw chinese spindle.
BTW do I need to put grease in BRAND NEW BEARING FROM STORE before I put em in the spindle?
I'm just curious, was it spinning freely when you got it? No weird noise? I've heard other people frying their water cooled units when there is some interruption in the water flow. Not assuming anything, but did you make sure your pump ran continuously?
Are you taking cuts which are "too optimistic" or anything like that ?
Check here
they are selling very high qulaity spindle
http://www.kelinginc.net/CNCSpindleandController.html
I used it more than a year without any problem
When I got the unit it was spinning very2 smooth and very2 quiet and not hot at all when you touch the bottom part of the unit not to mention the body. But after 2-3 days the sound was getting rougher alot rougher and when you touch the bottom it is HOT but not the body, the body stays cool also you can even hear the bearing crackling sometimes . I use a 250watt water jet pump which runs continously so water circulation wasn't the issue.
Monday morning I'm getting NSK 7005c but do I need to grease them before use? (my 2nd buy for NSK 7005c).
I am desperate on this chinese spindle it has become really expensive (2 units and 6 new nsk bearings).
Please tell me which grease to use.
I am cutting 6mm deep teakwood with 1200mm/min feedrate at 24,000RPM using 12mm flat carbide endmills (is this too much for the chinese 2.2kw watercooled spindle?).
Kelinginc got their spindle from china and mined just look exactly the same but without the NSK bearing (I wouldn't wanna buy 2.2kw chinese one anymore I prefer FIMEC, YASKAWA, FANUC)
Hi All,
I am not sure if this is the best place to post but I am looking to upgrade from my current 380 V 100 mm 5.5 Kw spindle to add ATC capability so I am guessing I am looking for a similar unit with the a draw bar for a quick change mount possibly BT30/40 fittings.
Please I am a newbie and appreciate any and all suggestions from those that have been there and done that - I can't afford to make a mistake on this one.
Thanks,
Peter
15mgtar - your experience with these spindles is starting to put doubts in my head about the chinese made ones. Are you not getting any warranty repair at all? I was going for a 2.2 kw air cooled one, but if they break that often, it'd be cheaper to go with an Ekstrom for $1300. More initial investment, but hopefully less frustration and less cost in the long run.
I'm having a hard time imagining what is going wrong after 2 days of use.
Why do you think the bearings are bad? Is it just the noise and heat? I've owned routers (namely PC892) that require a break in period where it runs hot for a period of time, and then will run cool after the bearings are broken in.
My 2.2kW (from Chai) spindle has been running strong for 18 months. It doesn't seem like you're pushing it too hard. I regularly take 6mm cuts in birch plywood, hard maple, ebony, rosewood - at much, much faster speeds. I consider that pretty light cuts, well within the chip load ratings for the tools I'm using.
The longest jobs I've run (continuously) are 2-3 hours, and no problems with overheating. It ran cool from day one and has never even been warm. I'm just using a little fountain pump and a bucket of water.
Is your tooling sharp? Could that be putting undue stress on the bearings? Teak is very abrasive and will dull tools quickly.
How long are you running the spindle at a time? An hour? 4 hours? 12 hours?
Steve - just trying to understand what's happening...
the first 2 days of continuous use (8 hours of cutting say 15 minutes break) the bottom part of the spindle is not hot at all the 3rd day when I run it again after 15 minutes the bottom part of the spindle gets really hot (but not the middle part) and I can hear the bearing inside got something there (was making alot of noise wasn't like the first 2 days). I have to stop the job and took apart the spindle ( like the first one I have the same exact story except this one I took it apart much2 sooner). I take a look at the bearings they look ok not like the first 2.2kw I have, the bearing was broken because I ignore the noisy spindle for too long. I admit that my endmill was abit dull at the bottom part but not on the sides. My job usually takes around 8 hours to complete and got 15 minute break. I'm getting a new NSK 7005C tomorrow do I need to grease them before use????????
Sounds like maybe the water jacket is getting blocked? With water in there, it should never get hot.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
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