Looks good John. Has been great visiting with you on all the aspects of what my goal is for a machine. Keep up the great work
Looks good John. Has been great visiting with you on all the aspects of what my goal is for a machine. Keep up the great work
Thanks Very Much!
I'll have some more pictures up pretty soon. The larger A10 machine
sold, but as I was doing a looking over getting ready to ship it I
noticed the MDF spreader bars are jussstttt right at the point of
being a tiny bit flexible front to back. It's just right at that point.
MDF parts are great if they're within some tight limitations of
size. But as the machine is intended for some very precise work, it
needed an upgrade of some aluminum angles bolted in a few places.
I finally got the metal in a few hours ago and am getting those
new parts made.
The smaller machines are well within the limits of the MDF parts, so
they're fine. But every 2" a machine increases in size can change
things --quite a bit sometimes.
So far the aluminum angles make all the difference.
Pictures soon.
John
There's the general idea...and it works perfectly without looking
like a retro-fit or afterthought. I have a few pieces to make, but
one thing I've learned for sure is....never try to drill holes that you
only have one shot at getting-them-in-the-right-place....when you're
a bit tired.....
Aluminum isn't all that expensive and adding a few angles can make
things a lot more rigid and strong.
More pictures later --when I get to a point worth looking at....
John
I'd be more than happy to help with that... Just ship one out my way. haha
Honestly though:
First off, awesome work... You've got some really great ideas here that I think were WELL worth sharing. Secondly, if my boss asks why I haven't gotten anything done at work today, well... I'm blaming you. I read this entire thread, something I don't know that I've ever done before...
For a long time I had the idea of building a desktop cnc machine or converting my mini mill and just never put forth the necessary effort. I guess I thought I couldn't do it. I successfully built my first from scratch with absolutely no plans about a year ago. It's not much to speak of, more of a proof of concept really with about a 4"x4" workable area... But it worked and that's all that really mattered. I even made my own motor controllers using PIC microchips with my own software on them! Unfortunately my interest fizzled a little after that due to what looked to be cost issues, etc.
However, after reading through your posts I have some new ideas and a better understanding of the cost involved... Best of all, I have rekindled my interest in moving forward with a real machine.
I just wanted to thank you for that.... Good luck with your projects, I'll be watching intently.
Just tell your boss I said it was OK....
But seriously...Thanks Very Much!
I've been pretty much at it for about 6 years now building them over and over.
I'm somewhere close to 400 machines by now. Big ones, little ones, metal,
plastic, wood....Linear rails, Oilites, poly slides, skate bearings....
But I still like these small MDF ones the best. They're just the right size
for prototyping and really fine stuff. Portable. Easily contained. Easy to
run with any of the very affordable drivers and motors. And...they can
be modded and be really nice looking....
Way cheaper to have a whole row of them than any ATC may ever be.
I had a row set up once for making Z axis parts. That worked really well, but
I never got around to building a large dust enclosure, so I didn't take full
enough advantage of that setup. But they'd make perfectly round press fit
holes for bearings.
They're really cost effective and show how simple and easy a machine can
be. And oddly enough, the simpler they are, the less problems there are.
Not much can go wrong ---even when it wants to.
Thanks for the kind remarks mrbasher...
There's tons more stuff to come....
John
Well, it started out as a Great Day...
Lasted about 30 minutes before the bronze nut on my RF45 mill I
make many of my parts with ----stripped....
Looks like there's good threads there, but there aren't. It just
froze in one direction and locked in place. So, the day went trying
to figure out where to get a replacement nut from.....then I decided
to rig it so I wouldn't get into another bind needing a part from China.
The plastic I use made a great little nut holder. If it proves temporary,
that'll be fine....as I can now use the mill to make parts to repair it with...
But....from several other machines I've made over the years, I actually
half-way expect it to last quite a while. Urethane parts are very durable.
Now travel is effortless and glass smooth with just plain old 1/2-10 Acme.
Delrin nut....a liitle longer than usual
It's even more odd to see no backlash in the mill travel that got repaired.
I'd have more and better pictures, but it's all still a major mess. I was gonna
go with something like 3/4" threaded rod, but couldn't find my tap. I've run
some big machines with 1/2" acme so I figured I'd give it a try.
I think it's going to work out just fine.
Back in business at any rate. Mannn, I've become very dependent on
the DRO. No way could I make all these holes on a drill press. They have
to be absolutely in the right place....
John
BTW....the little hole on top of the nut holder.....
That has a 10-24 screw in it from underneath. It's drilled
off to the side of the delrin nut itself. That means it can't twist
or come out on it's own, but is still replaceable if need be.
The aluminum plate is just a spacer that sits on a ground flat spot for
the particular mill. All nice and level....
John
That RF45 repair is pretty neat. Is the nut and mount a standard part you make for you CNC's or did you make a special mold and casting just for this. At least it looks cast...
Garry
PS I'd like to see some detail on the process yo use to use the PVC and brass bushings. They look very well designed and made..
Hi Garry,
Yep, it's cast.
It's an old part I used to use on some machines until I went to the single
slide part with the PVC tubes. They're easier to make and can't get out of
alignment like separate parts can. As long as it's very carefully made *In
Alignment* to start with. Need to make jigs to get it just right most times...
The PVC tubes are just machined to fit whatever bearing someone will want
to press fit into them. You may need a lathe with a fairly large bore.
It creates a good permanent glue-able condition using the PVC tubes.
They're not used...by me...because they're cheap...(though that's a side benefit).
But because it's just a very good material for the job.
They do look easy to make, but they can be a bit of a PITA.
They are simple and highly reliable, though....
John
Well, that one's on it's way to Norway...
I think that's one really Nice looking machine. I took my time sealing
and painting it and was careful not to ding it up....with all that white
paint...
One more just like it is almost done.
Well, back to work. First time I made a picture of all the parts laid
out in a while, so I thought that might be of interest....
John
John that is an absolutely beautiful machine you have got there and I am 100% positive they will sell like hot cakes. John do you have a website or contact e-mail ? also what sizes of machine do you make ? I have been building mine like forever and it is alot damn harder than I thought but I guess I have gone so far so I have to keep going. Mine is built with a moving gantry but your z axis assembly looks superb. Do you sell the machines as whole kits or do you sell parts as well? anyways credit where credit is due that is one of the nicest,neatest machines I have seen in a long time "CHEERS!"Laz.
Thanks Very Much!
Your kind remarks are Very Appreciated...
I still don't have the website in order yet. It takes way longer than I'd
thought on each machine...still. Lots of details and fitting and test
assembling.
I do sell off the machines I show, as I make them. Basically for little
more than they cost to make. And if time accounts for anything, I
may even be paying people to take them.....
I bet we all know --it Does eat up some time.
A few of those Z's are sold off sometimes. Still working on making
other parts available.
The white one is about a 10 x 8 x 3 cutting area. After making about
10 of those so far, I'd say that's a solid design. It always works as
expected.
Then there's a larger one that I'll show in a minute. So far only one
of those....
Anyone interested can always write me at....
john at microcarve.com
Thanks Again for the Very Nice comments!
John
And here's the larger A10 design that cuts approx 12 x 10 x 4.
Like I mentioned...only one of these so far...and this one's on it's
way to it's new owner.
A lot of changes from the smaller to this larger one that's only
2" difference in cutting area. This one is reinforced with the
aluminum angles and MDF side panels. I like that the angles aren't
obvious....
Also like I mentioned a few times, when things get bigger by
only the 2" increments, there's a point where drastic design
changes may need to be considered. At least here with these
machines....
To get this one as solid and vibration free as I could, the angles
make a real difference. That'll matter when using very small cutting
bits, or working with aluminum.
I'll get some feedback on the pluses and minuses of this design
in the coming weeks, so that'll decide if more like it are made or
whatever changes may or may not make it more practical to produce.
I DO like it a lot. It's a good bit larger and heavier than it looks in the
pictures. With the aluminum modifications to it, I think it would also
cut high-high detail if it was strung up on a rope, upside-down.
(like in the video I had up once of the small version....
It's very rigid and strong.
I'm looking forward to seeing how this one works. Lots was gained
from work on this particular machine.
John
Me too!
If anyone can make it do what it's supposed to do.....the person
it was shipped to will be the man to do it. He knows way more about
tools and machinery than I ever will.
John
That is just sexy right there.
I am actually the new owner of this one. John, I recieved it today, very well packed.
Will start posting a log about it as i go along.
Thanks
WoW!....That got there really fast!
Shipped on Saturday...arrives on Monday.
John
Absolutely beautiful machine. I'd love to grab one of these for sure if you plan on selling them as kits.
Hey John:
I have a question for you.
I usually use flexible type coupler to do a little compensation of misallignment between Motor and the leadscrew. But you're using solid brass in your case.
How do you precisely allign them?
By the way, have you ever nothiced that leadscrew is vibrating in one direction but other is smooth. I'm suffering of this problem in one machine, can't figure out the problem.
greetings
I make the parts with the screws temporarily in place. The parts
are made to match the where screw is.
I'm not sure about the problem you're having. That's one of the
reasons I use the direct, solid connection of my couplings.
Spring shaped couplings can act as springs. Off center couplings
can need to re-align themselves on direction change.
Watch the end of your motor when you have the problem and see if
the shaft is going in & out a tiny bit. Motors have a tiny washer in
them....I've heard it called a "wavy washer". It can compress and
decompress on direction changes.
If it is, your leadscrew needs to be locked in place in some way that
the washers cannot compress. Notice I use the black collars that
lock the screw within my frame. Then the motor is attached last.
That doesn't allow the motor shaft to move any direction but what
it's intended.
I had the problem with one of the first machines I ever made. It
used a flexible type coupling. I went to direct solid couplings and never
had the problem again....
Unless a set screw comes loose. And that does happen occasionally
on the many machines that are in use.....
John