[doorknob]

the 100pf capasitors do they need to be electrolytic caps, also what voltage do they need to be.

100 pf is a very small value of capacitance. You should not be looking for an electrolytic capacitor with that value.

You will probably easily find ceramic disc or monolithic capacitors of that value with a voltage rating of 50 volts (but you'll probably be fine with an even lower voltage rating).

For example, see DC100: VARIOUS: Passive Components

(I'm sure that you can find a nearby UK supplier as well)

I haven't had time to play with my TB6560 board yet, and so I don't know whether or not the layout will permit you to use tiny SMD surface mount "chip" capacitors, but if so, they would be a good choice in this application (but would be more difficult to solder into place).

[GrootWitBaas]

The caps you need is smd 100Pf, I have send you a pm with the link where I got mine in Germany.
once they are changed then "kernel speed is 35000hz" can be changed up to the next level (or even more) and this should most probably stop missed steps. Hissing of the steppers is also reduced by this change. 330pF can also be used, but I went with 100pF. Looking in the store doorknob linked this will do (you are replacing smd caps with smd caps)
Personally I use EMC2 not Mach3 (I don't do Windowzzz) but I know from feedback from other members that this does help.

O and I am known to be wrong at times

[mark.a]

sorry to be dumb but i have been to my local electronics shop with no luck, however i have found these on ebay can you tell me wether they are the right parts, many thanks.
Item number: 280570913470
Item number: 130409743407
Item number: 130364525258

[vdb]

Hi GrootWitBaas, I own the exact same 3 axes driver and also willing to use emc2 after modification of the card.

330pF can also be used, but I went with 100pF.

As i'm ordering some electronic components, what do you think would be the best ? 100pF or 330 pF ?

Personally I use EMC2 not Mach3 (I don't do Windowzzz) but I know from feedback from other members that this does help.

Do you think it could be possible for you to share your EMC2 setup as a workbase (Maybe something like this page)

[ShreddinPB]

Well I went ahead and did the modifications, and the board works worse than before lol
Here is what I did in this order

replaced 4 caps marked with 102 with 100pf caps
moved one of those caps and put it between ground and pin 14 on 74hc14
removed 4.7K resistors and instead used 103 resistors connected to the 5V line
P14 on 74hc14 to 5V line
P7 on 74hc14 to ground
cut the 4 traces and connected the input to the correct side and the output to the correct side
jumpered pins 3 & 5 together and 9 & 11 together

I am using mach3 with a shuttle pro V2 hooked up to jog it..
when I move on the Z, it moves for about a second then stops..
When I move on the X its really bad and VERY noisy it seems to skip a lot
when I move in the Y it barely moves at all and is a little noisy

I then test the board using the 15 pin manual connector with the little blue control box I bought.. and all axis work fine in all directions

Could it just be my setttings at this point?

I turned down the power on my power supply to test that cause people said they were working on 12V
I set my dip settings to (starting sw1 first)
off, on, off, on, on, on
I tried setting my kernal at 25000 35000 and 45000 with no change..
Im at a loss now and dont know what to do

[doorknob]

Did you change your Mach3 configuration so that the step pulse is now a negative-going pulse instead of the positive-going pulse that is normally used with this board?

The info in post #1 (the "update" at the end of the post) states that version 2 of the "fix" circuit uses only one inverter stage in the step line, thus it requires inversion of the step pulse in software.

[ShreddinPB]

Did you change your Mach3 configuration so that the step pulse is now a negative-going pulse instead of the positive-going pulse that is normally used with this board?

The info in post #1 (the "update" at the end of the post) states that version 2 of the "fix" circuit uses only one inverter stage in the step line, thus it requires inversion of the step pulse in software.

gotcha, you wouldnt happen to know where that setting is do you?
under config>ports & pins>Motor outputs I see "Step Low Active" they were all set to the red X, if I switch them to the green check mark nothing works
I cant find anything anywhere about changing the pulse direction

[doorknob]

I need to be sure which schematic you followed to do your conversion.

For the "version 2" schematic that is at http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...4&d=1283013610 (and which is referenced in post #1 of the thread at http://www.cnczone.com/forums/genera...y_chinese.html), my analysis of the circuit indicates that Step Low Active should be Green in order to get a negative-going step pulse on the TB6560's step (clk) pin.

The unmodified board should work with Step Low Active set to Red.

The modification thread is a long one, though, and so it's possible that there are other schematics showing recommended fixes that I may have missed - so, can you point me toward exactly which schematic you used?

[ShreddinPB]

I need to be sure which schematic you followed to do your conversion.

For the "version 2" schematic that is at http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...4&d=1283013610 (and which is referenced in post #1 of the thread at http://www.cnczone.com/forums/genera...y_chinese.html), my analysis of the circuit indicates that Step Low Active should be Green in order to get a negative-going step pulse on the TB6560's step (clk) pin.

The unmodified board should work with Step Low Active set to Red.

The modification thread is a long one, though, and so it's possible that there are other schematics showing recommended fixes that I may have missed - so, can you point me toward exactly which schematic you used?

I didnt really use the schematic.. I used an image someone posted later in the thread that was more of an instruction sheet than a schematic, here


As you have been helping me.. you know how non technical I am

[doorknob]

It's situations like this where an oscilloscope really comes in handy.

One potential difficulty here is that since there are no revision numbers or part numbers on those boards, it's entirely possible that the manufacturer may have made engineering changes from one production run of boards to another, so you can't even be certain that the schematics that the OP painstakingly put together actually match the board layout that anybody else has. For example, a change to the hookup of the optoisolators could change whether the standard board (or the modified board) requires Step Low Active to be set to Red or Green.

[ShreddinPB]

gotcha, you wouldnt happen to know where that setting is do you?
under config>ports & pins>Motor outputs I see "Step Low Active" they were all set to the red X, if I switch them to the green check mark nothing works
I cant find anything anywhere about changing the pulse direction

I think that might be the setting, so it was possibly set wrong before?

I have gotten it to work I THINK.. by changing the step pulse time to 5us under the Motor tuning and setup config. If I use the jog shuttle, it keeps moving fine, unless I try to move it at full speed, then it will stop. If I dont turn the knob all the way it will move to full extents