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  1. #381
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    528
    Quote Originally Posted by Arbo View Post
    Here is where I initially saw it:

    Vectric Forum • View topic - Corian Color Lithophane Lamp

    I had a buddy that is a professional bit manipulator for photos, who suggested doing something that gives the effect of the old died photos. More solid colors and such. I will have to fiddle with that too.
    Okay. Just bought some corian from ebay. How do you machine corian? What bit do you use and what feeds/speeds?

    Thanks.

  2. #382
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    932
    When I'm cutting lithos, I use a 1/16" ball end bit. For 1/4" corian I do not rough at all, it is just one finishing pass.

    I set up the photo to be .16 deep from white to black. And a .04 offest from the bottom of the corian.

    I set it for a 10% stepover, and run at 40ipm. On the first two passes I hit the feed speed adjust so it goes a little slower at first since it's cutting 100% width the first pass, and the corian packs up in that cut so the second pass clears it out. Then I reset it to programmed speed.

  3. #383
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    528
    Quote Originally Posted by Arbo View Post
    I set up the photo to be .16 deep from white to black. And a .04 offest from the bottom of the corian.
    Huh? What software are you using?

  4. #384
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    932
    Another way to put it is the depth map I set to .16 .. and set the Z so that you will leave a .04 thick section at the bottom (for the 'white')...

    I started with cnc2bmp.

    Which software do you have to generate a litho?

  5. #385
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    932
    Getting ready for several 'upgrades' to the machine. Just got done cleaning and tightening things.

    Awaiting the arrival of:

    Cable carrier for my Y axis,
    12 and 5v power supplies,
    super-PID.

    When they arrive I'll be able to set up all the wiring to finish doing the magnetic home switches, fans by the steppers, and super-PID install and setup.

    Itching to get it all going, it's gonna be sweet.

  6. #386
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    219
    Quote Originally Posted by Arbo View Post
    Finally putting together a new dust boot with brushes... epoxy setting up...
    hay arbo where did you purchase the bristles to make your dust catcher from
    thanks
    ghostlx
    http://www.pure-teck.com/home.html

  7. #387
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    932
    I found some at mcmaster/carr. But in the end I scrapped my own designs and bought a nice one.

  8. #388
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    783
    KentCNC sells replacement brushes for his dust shoes KentCNC. Replacement Brush I used the metal backed brush stock from mcmaster, it was a pain to bend and keep flat!

  9. #389
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    932
    Quite happy with my machine. After re-squaring it and getting things aligned, just cut my biggest (ie longest) job for a customer.

    A 12x24" litho, with a 1/16 BN bit, and 10% stepover. Took just shy of 20 hours. Over 2 million lines. Came out excellent. Can't show image as it is for an artist and thus proprietary work. But perhaps I'll get a picture of the done piece they are working on.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSCF1100.JPG  

  10. #390
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    8082
    Quote Originally Posted by Arbo View Post
    Quite happy with my machine. After re-squaring it and getting things aligned, just cut my biggest (ie longest) job for a customer.

    A 12x24" litho, with a 1/16 BN bit, and 10% stepover. Took just shy of 20 hours. Over 2 million lines. Came out excellent. Can't show image as it is for an artist and thus proprietary work. But perhaps I'll get a picture of the done piece they are working on.
    Wide awake mesmerized by the cutting for 20+ hours? I couldn't do it. I would be seeing weird things by then.

    CarveOne
    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com

  11. #391
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    932
    Awake? No way. About 6 hours of down time in there.

  12. #392
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    932
    I have most everything for all my planed upgrades. Probably need a few odds and ends, but picked up an old tower PC from a friend today. Gutted it out completely. Plan to use it as my 'case' for the everything including the new power supplies and such. Will probably need to make a few custom covers for fans and such as well.

    Now just need to fit the time to get it all done in there somewhere among the long list of other things...

  13. #393
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    0

    help?

    hello im chilean i like you cnc, please i need plans for construction, thanks

  14. #394
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    0

    help please,

    Greetings, what kind of motor nema? I have for a cnc with a working area of 32 x-axis and Y axis 24 and 10 z-axis, and wooden supports, Recinos, aluminum, cilicona

  15. #395
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    932
    ramadihel,

    There is a link to a .STEP file of the machine somewhere near the start of the thread, I can't remember where.

    Using 23's...

  16. #396
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    932
    Finally took the first step in upgrades. I had ripped down a tower PC case to use as a base for everything. Added in my 5 and 12v power supplies on stand offs.

    Need to pull the 48v and put that one in there, then start wiring it all up.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DSCF1142.JPG   DSCF1143.JPG  

  17. #397
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    219
    hay arbo , gerry and carveone,
    let me ask some questions to help solve a problem. cut my longest project yesterday 10hrs total, have a couple of issues,
    #! about 8 hrs into the project started to loose steps in x axis, i have r&p form nate at fine line and the motors came from arhen at cnc router, I have heard a lot of things about heat, so i have bought a thermal heat gun with laser,
    i checked the heat on all the motors and the g540 through out the run,up in till the last 2 to 3 hrs the motor temp was 130 f and the gecko was a steady 121 f by the end of the project the motors were 160 f and the gecko was 121f when the motor temp reached 160 is when it stated to loose steps, you could hear the motors thump 1 and then the outher on the x axis like it does when you first start up when you turn on the machine and every thing becomes live, it acted like they were trying to catch up after the machine changed direction,
    I know ahren places his resistor in the motor pig tail not at the gecko as directed could this be my problem with heat ? or is it some thing else ?
    ghostlx
    http://www.pure-teck.com/home.html

  18. #398
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Posts
    35538
    I know ahren places his resistor in the motor pig tail not at the gecko as directed could this be my problem with heat ? or is it some thing else ?
    From what I've read, I'd check there first. Seems like some people have problems with the cables, but others don't.
    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)

  19. #399
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    932
    Yeah, I have the same heat issue with mine. I need to move the resistors. My G540 is placed where the fans keep it nice and cool to the touch, but the motors heat up.

    My longest cut was around 20 hours, and I had fans on both sides of the machine that through the whole thing were blowing air over the steppers. I also turned off the heater out there and let the room cool down.

  20. #400
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    8082
    I'm with Arbo and Ger21. Move the resistors first, then see if the issue goes away before trying anything else. Once you move the resistors you probably don't need a fan on the motors but it won't hurt to have them for 20 hour runs, especially if your shop is at an elevated temperature during warmer months.

    CarveOne
    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com

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