[.xXACEXx.]

579 replies,36.802 veiws , alot of people are pulling for ya carveone ole buddy! hope all goes well!

[CarveOne]

I'm just way too busy to be a retired guy. I'll get it working again.

Last time I had the Xylotex driver repaired it cost $70. Not so sure I'll do that a second time for a machine that will run much better on a G540 anyway.

I'm hoping the G540 on machine #3 is ok and the computer has an issue. This computer already has a configuration in Mach3 that runs the big machine with the G203V drives. It won't take long to see if the parallel port is working by switching computers. This way I don't need to set up a configuration for the G540 on the computer that normally runs the big machine. It won't hurt to have both computers being able to run both machines just for cases like this in the future. Maybe I'll get a chance to switch them today.

CarveOne

[CarveOne]

Good news, the G540 is ok.

I put the G540 XML file on the computer that normally runs the big machine (#2) and set up Mach3 with the correct settings for this machine (#3). I swapped out the computer and now the G540 is running fine. This computer has a mainboard LPT1 connector.

The faulty computer has a PCI parallel port card on LPT3 address. I already swapped out that card with another one and had no luck.

I have a third new PPort card I can try, but I think I'll delete the XML file and copy a backup XML file into the Mach3 folder to see if the original XML is corrupted. It that doesn't improve anything I'll work on the PPort card again.

Maybe it's a PPort card driver installation problem.

Maybe the mainboard has a fried interface chip that feeds the PCI PPort card slots.

CarveOne

[CarveOne]

I went into the Device Mangler (tm) and looked at the I/O ports properties.

Hmmm, no driver for LPT3 is installed. Just COM1 and LPT1. I installed the PCI Pport card driver (again) this time using the HM (Hardware Mangler) procedure, directly from the 3" CD that came with the card. HM said it was working normally. (Yeah, right. It always says that.) So I close HM and try Mach3 again. No joy.

I went back into HM and looked at the properties menu for the driver. It says it is using EC00 and EC880, not the DC00 and D880 that the PCI card instructions says it should be. Ok, lets try those addresses just for grins. I close HM again.

I changed Mach3 Ports and Pins to EC00 and E880 then saved the configuration. Hit the Jog keys for the thousandth time.



Yess!

CarveOne

[Bubba]

Fantastic. I love it when things get fixed and the $$ are minimal. I know it was a PITA to find, but is better than giving up and buying all new equipment!

[CarveOne]

Fantastic. I love it when things get fixed and the $$ are minimal. I know it was a PITA to find, but is better than giving up and buying all new equipment!

Me too! Although the fried compressor in the home central air conditioner set me back just under $1,700 isn't what I would call a minimal expense.

It's been a long time since I had to go deep diving in the Hardware Mangler to find and fix a problem that was working fine previously.

The results of all this is that the work shop breaker panel has a new surge arrestor in it, and all computers in the building have surge arrestors on them now. And Mariss can stop sweating over another blown G540 troubleshooting exercise that they didn't cause. (For now )

CarveOne

[Bubba]

C1,
OOPS, forgot about the compressor. I was thinking only of the router. Many times, home owners insurance will help with the AC side, but many are reluctant to get involved with our "toys"

[.xXACEXx.]

so, just for giggles and to ease my mind, let me get this straight ,...

it was working fine before the screw lock-up event,then you powered it down and backed the screw off by hand ,then somehow in between all this you went to sleep and in your sleep went sleep walking out to your shop ,went in and changed those settings??

actually though ,do you have any idea how those addresses got changed?? i hate those gremlins!!

one example=

the Chevalier cnc lathe i run at work has a button which acts as a space bar (its the incremental key) well if i use the incrememtal key sometimes to insert a space in the program name it works fine = PN 123-A , sometines it changes the space to an underscore = PN_123-A ,so yeah i hate when things change for no appent reason

glad everything was ok with the G540 (really want one of those),dont wanna settle for something lesser, and always wonder "how it could have been" since i have no drivers at all , i had considered getting a cheaper kit and just "getting it over with" but after almost 6 years trying to decide what to go with ,its not likely i will be building 4-5 machines although it seems every one eventually does! ha

again glad to hear everything was not lost,and you now have more protection that you plolly needed any way

[CarveOne]

The only thing I can think of that may have caused it, that I haven't mentioned, is that a momentary power failure happened during the period after the jam was cleared and while the machine was still running. After rebooting, it hung up and a forced shut down was necessary because it locked up just before the desktop was useable. It rebooted ok the second time except that the motors wouldn't run. I need to get another UPS for this machine setup before expecting to run any serious cut jobs. Power drop-outs are not uncommon here.

The jog keys would change the DROs in Mach3, but I found that the shortcut key configuration in Mach3 configuration had been reset to the default numbers of 999. Eventually, I installed a new 540B.xml file in the Mach3 directory and completely reconfigured Mach3 in order to be sure that something else in that file had not been corrupted.

I think the original parallel port PCI card I had in it is ok, but will need to test it by re-installing it to be sure.

As for the Linux computer that drives the first machine I built, I won't do any troubleshooting on that one anytime soon. The Y axis motor doesn't run anymore.

Too much else is taking my time. I worked from 9:30pm last night to 2am this morning helping my skydiver friend paint some of the aircraft fiberglass landing gear parts for the LSA company. I'll be doing some contract CNC parts cutting this weekend, finish wet sanding on a skydiving helmet for painting, and need to finish installing a new back door that I have been working on this week. I may get called on to go help with the wing and stabilizer painting today. I hope not. Just staying too busy for someone that is supposed to be retired.

Oh yeah, I installed a surge arrestor in the work shop breaker panel yesterday morning. It probably negates the need for the ones I added to the benches, but the ones at the benches will become the second line of defense. (The belt AND suspenders approach.)

CarveOne

[robe_uk]

Retired??? Man you need to go back to work for a rest

[CarveOne]

Retired??? Man you need to go back to work for a rest

That's what I've been thinking too. I just got back from spending 3-1/2 hours this evening helping prep, prime, and spray red epoxy paint on a 16 foot long wing panel. The airplane has a 35.4 foot wing span. There is another wing panel, flaps, stabilizer, and elevator to paint. We'll do that next week. This is the first plane off the new US production line. My skydiver friend is doing the painting, video production work, and will be the first to jump out of one in the US. He's even more busy than I am.

CarveOne

[CarveOne]

Sorry guys, absolutely nothing is happening with this build since I got it working again.

Skydiver guy Cyrus and I are up to our ears working on painting the first production copy of the Allegro LSA airplane built in the USA. We should have everything painted by late tomorrow. He's spraying and I'm prepping the fiberglass parts and helping him in the paint room. First test flight and delivery to the customer is going to happen this weekend. Of course, I plan to be there.

CarveOne

[Mountaincraft]

I got about 40% of the way through flight school when I was in the marines... Man, I wish I had finished that!

[CarveOne]

I was in the USAF but they wouldn't let me near an airplane.... So I learned to fly R/C models.

CarveOne

[diyengineer]

How much does one go for? I did finish my pilots license

I really wanna make a large scale model of the new Phantom Ray by boeing

Sorry guys, absolutely nothing is happening with this build since I got it working again.

Skydiver guy Cyrus and I are up to our ears working on painting the first production copy of the Allegro LSA airplane built in the USA. We should have everything painted by late tomorrow. He's spraying and I'm prepping the fiberglass parts and helping him in the paint room. First test flight and delivery to the customer is going to happen this weekend. Of course, I plan to be there.

CarveOne

[CarveOne]

How much does one go for? I did finish my pilots license

I really wanna make a large scale model of the new Phantom Ray by boeing

The Allegro LSA sells for $90k, 95k, and $100k depending on the instrumentation package you want with it. (Their web site prices) I think they may have to recalculate after finding out how much it cost them for the first one at US prices versus Czech Republic prices where it was originally made. Better order one before that happens.

After the initial shock of finding out what was involved in getting the first one out the door there will certainly be some changes to lower some of the costs. Some of the metric tubing is not available here.

The Boeing Phantom Ray UCAV R/C model will need gyros in it to keep it stable and manageable by a modeler. Visual orientation on the model would be a nightmare for me.

CarveOne

[diyengineer]

The Allegro LSA sells for $90k, 95k, and $100k depending on the instrumentation package you want with it. (Their web site prices) I think they may have to recalculate after finding out how much it cost them for the first one at US prices versus Czech Republic prices where it was originally made. Better order one before that happens.

After the initial shock of finding out what was involved in getting the first one out the door there will certainly be some changes to lower some of the costs. Some of the metric tubing is not available here.

The Boeing Phantom Ray UCAV R/C model will need gyros in it to keep it stable and manageable by a modeler. Visual orientation on the model would be a nightmare for me.

CarveOne

Im sure those prices will drop down a lot once the production kicks in and they are able to buy a lot more things in bulk. I googled it, seems like a nice little plane. I've flown plenty of Cessna 172's and twin engine piper seminoles. I've built a small kit plane with my father a few years ago but still havent had the chance to take it up! I always wanted to install one of those wireless point of view cams in the cockpit and be able to fly by video from the ground just like a video game!

As for the lack of rudder and vertical/horizontal stabilizer in the Phantom, i was wondering how that worked out.. Haven't seen one fly yet, i'll have to search google. I'd love to use my machine to build a large model, maybe one with a 12' or so wing span

[CarveOne]

I cut a sheet of combined Rohacell foam/fiberglass cloth/epoxy/carbon fiber plate ribs and close-outs for the 17' wing span R/C model's stabilizer today.

They look just like the vertical fin ribs and close-out that I posted a few weeks ago and roughly about the same size. The next parts I cut will be a much larger version for the wings and will be a much beefier lay-up. I may be able to use a 1/8" cutter for those.

The method I use for hold down is 3M77 spray contact adhesive sprayed only on the sheet of material and allowed to dry for 5 minutes or so, then pressed onto the spoil board firmly. If not enough adhesive is applied the parts will lift up. If too much adhesive is applied it will be difficult pry the parts up without damage. Warming it with a heat gun helps to pry up the worst spots. The adhesive can be cleaned off of the parts with paint thinner and a cloth.

CarveOne

[diyengineer]

As far as large "RC" models (10+ foot wingspans), do you know of any free plans online, or at least somewhere to purchase plans?

I cut a sheet of combined Rohacell foam/fiberglass cloth/epoxy/carbon fiber plate ribs and close-outs for the 17' wing span R/C model's stabilizer today.

They look just like the vertical fin ribs and close-out that I posted a few weeks ago and roughly about the same size. The next parts I cut will be a much larger version for the wings and will be a much beefier lay-up. I may be able to use a 1/8" cutter for those.

The method I use for hold down is 3M77 spray contact adhesive sprayed only on the sheet of material and allowed to dry for 5 minutes or so, then pressed onto the spoil board firmly. If not enough adhesive is applied the parts will lift up. If too much adhesive is applied it will be difficult pry the parts up without damage. Warming it with a heat gun helps to pry up the worst spots. The adhesive can be cleaned off of the parts with paint thinner and a cloth.

CarveOne

[CarveOne]

As far as large "RC" models (10+ foot wingspans), do you know of any free plans online, or at least somewhere to purchase plans?

No, I haven't looked for any. I quit flying R/C models just before relocating here about 6 years ago and have been concentrating on other things since then. They would be fine to build one for someone else but I wouldn't want to short change my CNC addiction at this point in my life.

My part in this big model is just to cut the ribs, close-outs, and fuselage formers. Once the model is ready to prime and paint I may get called in to help with that if the usual delivery time crunch happens.

The largest one I have built from plans (for myself) was a 10' span "Real Thing" from the plans that were published in RC Modeler many years ago. I scanned the small version in the magazine and scaled it up in TurboCAD, then used the measure tool in TurboCAD to get the part dimensions. When working with scaled up pixelated drawings, I scale it up some, trace the middle of the lines for the parts I want to cut, then scale the line drawings up to the final size they need to be. I print the parts on paper, spray a light coat of 3M77 adhesive on the back side of the paper only, then stick it to the wood. I cut the wood very close to the lines with a scroll saw, then sand it on a 12" disk sander to the line. I didn't have a CNC machine back then or even know they existed.

I flew it with a 2.4 cu. in. Koritz gas engine. I used mahogany veneer door skins for the fuselage sides to avoid having to splice two pieces of birch plywood. A kit was made of it some years after that.

CarveOne