[Ntl]

So anyway getting back to my router build, here is a video of the last pass of my spoil board surfacing.

https://youtu.be/j3MEY2Druh4

[wmgeorge]

Gary I have installed a lot of machine shop stuff, it does not need to be level just all on the same plane. If it needed to be level the Navy machinists would never get anything done.

[wmgeorge]

So anyway getting back to my router build, here is a video of the last pass of my spoil board surfacing.

https://youtu.be/j3MEY2Druh4

Not seeing a visible link?

[GME]

Gary I have installed a lot of machine shop stuff, it does not need to be level just all on the same plane. If it needed to be level the Navy machinists would never get anything done.

I agree completely, Bill, at least in theory. How do get a consistent plane that is not level, or perpendicular to level?

[wmgeorge]

I level with a standard level after checking to make sure its true. On a lathe I turn a round bar and check. On a milling machine the head is trammel to the table or vice your using. Over on The Village Press Home Shop Forum they discuss this from time to time, some would call it arguing!!

Are you using 3 inch square tubing to build your frame?

[Ntl]

Hey guys can you do this through private message or start your own thread thanks. I'm getting a bunch of emails of the two of you having a conversation and it has nothing to do with you my machine build.

Thanks

[Ntl]

Not seeing a visible link?

That's strange, the link is in the quote you posted. Here it is again.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3MEY2Druh4

[wmgeorge]

I see nothing, no link anybody else? Ok will stop discussion on your Thread, I want to see that video.

[Ntl]

I see nothing, no link anybody else? Ok will stop discussion on your Thread, I want to see that video.

Very strange, they both show up on my phone and I have views on my YouTube channel. Maybe they are all from the Centroid forum? I don't know if it's because I have the YouTube app and maybe you don't. I'll try posting it from my laptop.

[difalkner]

It shows up just fine for me on my computer using Windows 10 Pro and IE 11.

David

[Ntl]

It shows up just fine for me on my computer using Windows 10 Pro and IE 11.

David

Yes I just logged in on my laptop and its here as well.... maybe you have some sort of content blocker enabled?

Its not that exciting anyway.

Also as for a update the rails are fine, there is a little bit .005-.010 of fluctuation call it a wave in the y direction on one side and .003 on the other. The original amount was due to the spindle not being trammed properly. I have it with in .001 now side to side, and front to back its .004 I'm not going to worry about the front to back since it would be a pain to level since there's no adjustment that I'm aware of and its literally the thickness of a piece of paper. That is unless anyone with more experience thinks it will cause a problem down the road.

My spoil board surface is + - .003 to .010 in one spot which is probably from the wave on the y rail and I'm sure its from a fluctuation in the paint thickness since the amount is so small. Either way its more than accurate enough for my use. As long as it doesn't wear out the bearings I'm good..

I'm cutting out the t-track grooves today and will post a video when I'm done.. Over all so far I'm finally happy with how everything has turned out. I'm especially happy with the Centroid Acorn controller it has been by far the easiest part of the whole build and so far runs flawless. I still need to install my tool setter, my touch off plate, and wire up my dust collector AKA shop vac, water pump, fans, and air. I also have a few other things to fab up, but at least once I have my hold down system installed I should be able to start cutting parts.


Thanks guys for the help with getting this thing going,

Dan

[wmgeorge]

It must be Norton's or Window Defender because its just fine on my iPhone. I am glad the ACORN is working, it gives me hope that if I get ticked with Mach3 I have a plan "B" .

[Ntl]

It must be Norton's or Window Defender because its just fine on my iPhone. I am glad the ACORN is working, it gives me hope that if I get ticked with Mach3 I have a plan "B" .

Yeah I've only tried the demo version of Mach but I can't tell you how many people on the Centroid forum have switched over. I personally learned my lesson from a DTG printer that I had so many problems with due to the control software issues. There are also a ton of shopbot guys making the switch to Acorn. I'm just glad I only have to go through the learning curve once. I honestly don't know what the issues are with Mach, but I personally didn't want to take the chance.

The main reason I went with Centroid is because it did out of the box everything I needed with out additional hardware for less money.

BTW the router version is about to be released and the new ethernet expansion board isn't far behind. They also are working on a plasma table plug in, needless to say I'm very happy with my decision. They are very aggressive with the development of their retrofit systems and aren't going to suddenly stop making improvements.

Dan

[wmgeorge]

Gary Campbell over on the Sawmill Creek Forum makes a living retro fitting old CNC machines and he swears by the Acorn and uses them a lot. Will the folks using Mach3 who have had the Z plunge into your work or spoilboard please raise your hand?? :nono:

Yes just two times for me.

[GME]

I'm cutting out the t-track grooves today and will post a video when I'm done.. Over all so far I'm finally happy with how everything has turned out. I'm especially happy with the Centroid Acorn controller it has been by far the easiest part of the whole build and so far runs flawless. I still need to install my tool setter, my touch off plate, and wire up my dust collector AKA shop vac, water pump, fans, and air. I also have a few other things to fab up, but at least once I have my hold down system installed I should be able to start cutting parts.


Thanks guys for the help with getting this thing going,

Dan

Aren't you going to square your gantry before getting much further down the road? Also, many folks just loosen the router mounting plate bolts and use something like aluminum foil to shim for tramming front to back. Use the thinnest foil you can find. I believe is is .0005" thick. It's really not that difficult or time consuming to do. I've found it works out better to tram front to back before side to side. If you loosen the bolts to do the front to back, there is a good possibility you will mess up the side to side.

Doesn't .005" to .010" seem like a lot of variation for paint thickness? I believe the standard thickness for powder coat is something like 60 to 80 microns (.0024" to .003"). .010" is more than 3X greater than the high side base paint thickness. Maybe some weld stress that didn't get relieved?

You might want to consider grounding your dust collection. I had a problem with static tripping my limit sensors, until I got the whole collection system grounded. I'm sure the static was exacerbated by my using PVC pipe for some of the run, but it's worth thinking about. I ran bare stranded copper wire both inside and outside the hose and pipe all the way back to my cyclone vac system and electrical system ground. Once I did that, the limit sensor trips stopped.

Gary

[Ntl]

Powder coat can be anywhere from 3mils all the way up to 100mils it depends on your specs and what type of powder coat you're using, I used to get parts done that were two stage powder and it was thick stuff. I just peeled a paint chip off my old gantry that the paint was peeling off and it was 6 mils thick and the powder on the table is much thicker actually the cable track has epoxy paint so who knows what the table is. So I'm pretty sure it's probably the powder coat/paint causing the fluctuations at the very least it's not helping.

As for the gantry being square I already did that when I installed the new gantry and thankfully the new router update that should be released anytime now for Centroid Acorn has auto square. So if it's not perfect now it will be very soon.

And thanks for the heads up on the dust collector, I was wondering why it came with the aluminum tape. I didn't think it would matter but I'll install it after all so I don't have any problems.

Thanks again,
Dan

[PLJack]

As for the gantry being square I already did that when I installed the new gantry and thankfully the new router update that should be released anytime now for Centroid Acorn has auto square. So if it's not perfect now it will be very soon.
Thanks again,
Dan

Not sure what Centroid's approach is but it's come up before. I believe the Saturn is too stiff for auto square.

Jack.

BTW: Nice work.

[Ntl]

It's based on the homing sensors. I would Loosen the bolts, use the sensors to square up the gantry then tighten every thing down. I don't have the steel gantry on my machine anymore so I have a lot more adjustment for my gantry.

I do see your point, the function is really more for routers that have a long gantry, it would probably work better for your machine since yours would have more play due to the length than my machine.

[ger21]

Gary Campbell over on the Sawmill Creek Forum makes a living retro fitting old CNC machines and he swears by the Acorn and uses them a lot.

Gary frequently posts here as well.

Will the folks using Mach3 who have had the Z plunge into your work or spoilboard please raise your hand?? :nono:

Yes just two times for me.

Never in the 10 years I've been using it. But I switched to UCCNC for lots of other reasons.

[OlfCNC]

Will the folks using Mach3 who have had the Z plunge into your work or spoilboard please raise your hand?? :nono:

Never had any issues like that with Mach3, but I also switched to UCCNC a long time ago.
UCCNC makes autosquaring perfectly BTW.