Says if I don't connect them it will void my warranty.... Its a new $800 motor so I don't want to do that.
Says if I don't connect them it will void my warranty.... Its a new $800 motor so I don't want to do that.
Your VFD is going to control the max aperage to that motor so it should not ever "overload".
Right now your mainly using it via Keypad right?
You will to get it going then you can do the External controls later.
0-00 = 0
Fill in all the motor Nameplate date in 0-01 to 0-05
0-07 = Mains voltage = 220 or whatever it is there.
Almost all the other defaults will work....
1-00 = 0 Keypad
1-01 = 0
1-02 = 0
1-03 = 0
1-04 = 0
1-05 = 0
1-06 = 0 for Arrows or 1 for Pot on Keypad "01"
1-07 = 1
Section 2 all defaults
Section 3
3-00 = Max Freq you want example 120 = twice rated motor speed at 60 hz
3-01 = Lowest Hz you want like 10 hz
3.02 = 3
3.03 = 1
The rest of 3 can be defaults
Section 4 you can set to what you want or leave alone
Section 5 is not important until you interface to external control
Perform Auto Tune as on page 4-53 in parameter group 14. Generally done with no belts or drive train hooked up. I just put my gear box in neutral to do it.
Please tell me you did not pay $800 for a motor for your $1500.00 milling machine... really? Hope you get that drive sorted right because I would be afraid to blow that thing up... peace
Pete
Awesome I went through the settings.
The Schematic is here http://www.marathonelectric.com/CnxD...321892_365.pdf
Pete,
Lol no I paid $275 for it but its new and under Marathons warranty and from Marathon it is $800
This one to be exact .: Marathon Electric Motors - Motor Product Detail :.
They have several different types of protection and the best way to identify it is by the labels on those two wires. Are they P1 & P2 ?
Okay, P1 and P2 should be a normally closed circuit going thru three thermostatic protection switches.
You can easily verify this by taking a ohm meter in continuity modem and checking between P1 and P2. You should have continuity.
If so, what we need to do is wire this to your digital inputs on the VFD and then program that input as an External fault. Let me look at some more of the manual. Test those wires and let me know as well.
rwskinner,
yes it is p1 and p2
Thermal protection on motors typically consists of nothing more than a temperature-activated NC switch. It can be wired in series with any control signal that will cause the controller to shut down when the switch opens.
Regards,
Ray L.
Jeremy, are you using a contactor for the main power coming in?
220 plug -> contactor -> VFD
Switch controlling contactor?
not at the moment. I just wired 220 directly to my VFD from my breaker box to test it out.
TECO Manual sucks!
Before you do anything with P1 & P2 let's do a littel test.
Program 5.08 = 1 for Stop and reset Freq to 0
5.05 = 7 for ESD
Now, see if the VFD runs or if it flashes ESD.
Depending on how they have the ESD setup,
It should be fail safe, which means S6 has to have 24v going to it to run, then when it the connection opens, it has an ESD shutdown.
Please test the following.
Test 1 - If it runs the way it is, while it's running, touch a jumper between S6 and 24V+ and see if it stops.
Test 2
If it flashes the ESD, then connect a jumper from S6 to 24v+, press reset, then run. Does it run?
Let me know which way it operates and we can nail this down quick. Hopefully it's test 2.
This is all chinese so there is no telling how they have the ESD logic.
Isn't that what I said? Right now, we are trying to figure out if Teco has a fail safe ESD like normal folk or if the have a fail closed system.
If he had a contactor, it could have been put in series with it and the contactor would open during an overheat. The Teco doesn't have an External Fault input like most others have. They do have a reset terminal though but we were looking for an external fault.
It runs with the settings and then stops after I contact 24v to S6. and flashes ES until I remove the jumper.
As I thought, Ass backwards from any real industrial fail open ESD.
There is a little switch on the bottom, switch it to NPN, then use a jumper from Ground to S6. Tell me what happens.
Jeremy, sorry I'm getting tired. Put the switch back where it was and program 5.05 to 29 and retry the test.
After flipping the switch the terminals do nothing. I can start the motor without the jumper attached and when I jump it nothing happens.
With the setting on 29 it will not start without jumping the 24V and S6