[Buzz9075]

I ran out at lunch today and scored big. I hit the plastic store first:
1 - 2'*4'*3/4" HDPE
1 - 2"*6"*12" UHMW to try and make some dampeners out of

Then to pricess auto (made me late for work... but it was worth it).
Man right there on the shelf hundreds of the little puppies. $3CND each for each side and $2 for the middle. That make $25 for all 3 sets very similiar to the love joys I already have for 1/4 stuff.
As well I finally found my nice big red panic button they had tons of them. Will be replacing the light switch I have soon with the BRB.

I was really hoping they had the cable management system like David has on his machine but my luck ran out there.

As well I was hoping they had the 1/2" bearings but they only had 12mm bearings. I bought 1 just in case, but think it will be a little small for the 1/2 rod (will check tonight at Home Depot).

[Weldtutor]

I ran out at lunch today and scored big.
Then to pricess auto (made me late for work... but it was worth it).
Man right there on the shelf hundreds of the little puppies. $3CND each for each side and $2 for the middle.

I was really hoping they had the cable management system

You sound rather excited Buzz.

Machine #2 should be done rather soon. I'm hoping you'll post pictures for this one also.

I found those flex couplers at Princess Auto last year after Mc Ma**** C**r quit selling to the little guys in Canada & the price is hard to beat.

If you find a good source nearby for the cable management system give me a shout, or put a post in my Weldtutor Plasma table build log.

[Buzz9075]

I was most exicted to find the BRB as I have been looking for one for ever.... and the only ones I have found would have cost me $50 to get it here.... got it today for about $8 with taxes.

Machine #2 I am expecting to be done end of March... Still have a lot of work to get it straight in my head what all the parts are and how everything is put together before I start machining. I want to ensure I have as many adjustments required implemented, for example ready for tool changer, Dust collector connection (or ready for it).

[Buzz9075]

Pipes, just checked the drawings for the pipe support locations for the X and Y axis. They are two different pipes. I was under the impression from previous readings that the pipes where gas lines which are standard and they don't fluctuate this much(i understand the tolerance but the set back are completely different sizes). Can someone advise what pipes I am suppose to be using.

Thanks

[ccsparky]

Pipes, just checked the drawings for the pipe support locations for the X and Y axis. They are two different pipes. I was under the impression from previous readings that the pipes where gas lines which are standard and they don't fluctuate this much(i understand the tolerance but the set back are completely different sizes). Can someone advise what pipes I am suppose to be using.

Thanks

Buzz,

The Y-Axis uses 3/4" gas pipe and the X-Axis uses 1" gas pipe and that is what I used on my machine.

[ccsparky]

Buzz,

You will be using 36" and 60" pipes with the threads on both ends, the openings in the third and forth pictures have a bit smaller diameter to accept the threaded ends and they will be a snug fit

[joecnc2006]

Pipes, just checked the drawings for the pipe support locations for the X and Y axis. They are two different pipes. I was under the impression from previous readings that the pipes where gas lines which are standard and they don't fluctuate this much(i understand the tolerance but the set back are completely different sizes). Can someone advise what pipes I am suppose to be using.

Thanks

The X-Axis is 1" Gas pipes and the Y-Axis is 3/4" Gas pipes.
60" and 36" respectively. Don't forget to check length not to exceed the distances, sometimes gas pipes are a little long and need to be trimmed.

Joe

[Buzz9075]

Excellent thanks. To confirm when I get the pipes I want, I then what to put the normal NPT on the ends of the bars? Home Depot has done this for me in the past when I have asked.

[Weldtutor]

The Y-Axis uses 3/4" gas pipe and the X-Axis uses 1" gas pipe

The above quoted answer is correct.

Pipe size specifications can be very confusing & the term "gas pipe" is jargon.

They are stated as "nominal" (approx.) inside diameter.

You are concerned with the outside diameter which is always constant even though the wall thickness or "schedule" can vary.

3/4" pipe has an O.D. of 1.05"

1" pipe is 1.32" O.D.

[ccsparky]

I got my pipes from Home Depot and both of the HD near me carry pre cut and threaded 36" and 60" pipes. I used black pipe because they are normally smoother than galvanized as suggested to me by Joe. It was nice having a selection because I was able to pick through them and find some pretty good pipes. Several had teeth marks from the pipe machine so be careful when selecting or having them cut and threaded by them for you.

[joecnc2006]

Don't forget to sand them down it does make a difference in the running and cuts of the machine.

[Buzz9075]

Thanks for all the information and advice. I am really hoping I can get a home depot shopping spree in this weekend.

[Buzz9075]

Got some work done, updates at www.cncmachine.phillipsfamily.ca
Enjoy

[Buzz9075]

More updates were just posted on the web page.

Got one problem I just can't seem to figure out, maybe someone can help me. The cutting of shapes are of by 0.005 to 0.025" (ALLWAYS under sized). The difference varies but is not based on position on the table, I have reduced the speed of the final cut to 5ipm. Checked my backlash and it appears to be about .002. I machine an inside square 1" and pocket of 1" and I get squares of .94 to 1.03 (Seldom being over). The faster I cut the final cut the sloppier the finish.

Some easy examples are drill holes. I get .197 for a .201 hole. Rarely will it be the size required. Using a ruler the overall finished part is the right size (can't measure the bigger parts with a vernier). At this point I just fix the holes by redrilling them and allowing the wood to recenter.

What ever it is does not grow as the rotor moves down the axis.

Checked the back lash by doing the following:
Move the axis in one direction for about 1". Put the dial indicator up against it and move the other way in .001 increments. Watch for the dial to start to move.

One thing I did notice, is sometimes I put the jog at .1 movements and when I jog it moves .08, .12, .1, .1,.1, .09, .08... but the total movement overal for alot of movement is acrurate.

I believe I have everything tightened up nicely... but I could have missed something.

I am for sure the motors are not skipping steps.

My walls are nice and straight on the edges of the part (which do not have finish passes... the circles do they have .02 finishing passes.). No stair casing on the side in MDF but a little in plastic.

While it is not a huge concern I really like my machines as tight as I can get them.

Not sure what else to look at does any one got any ideas?

At a point where I am thinking the really accurate stuff I might just add .05 to the size

[ger21]

Cut two identical squares in the same place on the machinie, one climb cutting and one conventional. How much different are they?

You may be seeing bit deflection, since it increases with speed. Try a larger diameter tool and see if you get better results.

[Buzz9075]

I will give the climb/conventional test a go tomorrow. Now that you say it the numbers I believe are different based on cutter size. I am using a 3/16 as I need it to cut all the holes that are called for and the holes are what are causing me the biggest grief.

I know I get some deflect as this machine is not well designed to hold a large tool head on (which I have in place to get the maximum amount of vacuum).

[DayneInfo]

Buzz - I have a Sosylva also and found I had the same problems with mine. Machine is great for cutting signs and such but not accurate enough for what I ultimately want to do. I think part of the problem is in the all-thred lead screws. I am assuming that the pitch varies slightly through out the length of rod. I also noticed differences when making conventional vs climb cuts. What I did was cut test parts and decided what would work best. I modified drawings, speeds cut direction etc...until I had something I liked. I then cut all my parts at those settings. For example I know that some of my Joe's machine parts are not exactly sized correct, but all of the parts are off the same amount. So it all fits fine. I have not finished my Joe's yet and will not for a while, but I did buy precission leadscrews for this reason.

Dwayne

[Jason Marsha]

I have a sneaky feeling that you will get the same results with the precision leadscrew, as the size differences may have to do with Z axis deflection . However it will all be put to rest when you install your new leadscrews.

Jason

[Buzz9075]

Did some tests this morning, basically showed that conventional milling is worse than climb milling. Got a felling for those holes that I really care about the size I am going to increase the drawing size to accomondate the result.

I know some of this is due to deflection on the Z axis head but I figured by slowing the feed rate down to 5 this would have removed this and allowed the cutter to say up to the speed of the cutting and remove all the material. Going to do another test tonight and cut the finishing pass at 1IPM hopefully this helps a little.

I really hope that Joe's design remove this type of stuff.

Any more ideas I am all ears.

[ccsparky]

Hello Buzz,

Checked out your site, parts look good!

Are you using Mach3? I am having problems figuring out how to leave tabs on the parts so they don't move around on the final pass, just like the sheet of motor mounts on your site. Was each part done with a continuous cut or did each section in between the tabs have to be cut separately and then move to the next?

Thanks!