[arizonavideo]

I got in a gallon of the Koolrite 2290 I'm going to try it as mist first too see if I get any rust under the vice. I have a long way untill I go full fool but I have been hoping for something low cost and effective at stopping rust. Hope it works out well.

[lcvette]

Arizona video,

Haven't tried it as a Misti, bit I would imagine it will work the sane as I blow the table off with air after a good flood wash down to clean chips etc and I have not found a spec of rust anywhere, not on the ways, the vice, any exposed metal or even clamps that have been in the table slots.

I am very interested to hear how it works as a flood! Please do post your findings for us!!

Chris

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[CL_MotoTech]

So here's a few photos of my setup. Please ignore the mess of wires and amount of chips in the enclosure. I am doing some maintenance on the X axis so I have the stepper off, but have been so busy the last few weeks that I have had a hard time keeping up with my house keeping around the shop. That in mind, my shop is in my basement and I actually had to lower the mill sans the base using a engine hoist in the basement. Then I assembled the mill, base, enclosure, all down there. Due to the geometry of the basement entrance I can't even get a standard 4'X8' sheet of FRP let alone plywood down there. As a result a large fabricated enclosure simply isn't an option in my case. That said, I am very satisfied with my enclosure for now. It's easy to clean, very modular for when I need to work on the machine, and it was cheap as hell.

I also tried to resize my images but this site is using an unfamiliar code and I don't seem to be able to make it work.

Closed. That fancy rope attached to a screw on a beam above to hold the door up. This is probably the first thing I will change. The wet door hanging over your head is only mildly pleasant.



Here you can see the drain layout. There is a third drain in the back that I keep plugged most of the time. The third drain is actually lower than the two in view by about .25". It's a smaller drain though and has no chip filtering.



This image shows how a large section of the leading edge is remove, no tools are required. It makes working on the machine very easy.



Inside the drain you can see the air filter material. I vacuum it out with my tank vacuum a few times, but once it gets ratty I change it. It costs less than $1 to change the material.



I have a sedimentation reservoir for each of the two main drains. Right now I um under-utilizing their capacity, but I may increase it in the future. I think the main reason to do that would be for tramp oil collection as these reservoirs do a nice job of separating the tramp oil and sending it to the main reservoir.



Finally the main bin. Looking a little low on coolant at the moment. And you can see some tramp oil build up. I forgot to take the picture of the main filter system. But at the back right of the bin you see the three coolant return hoses. The ends of those hoses empty into the center of filter. The coolant passively flows outward through the filter. If you look very closely you can see the blue lattice and white filter inside the bin. I said previously that the filter was contained by a trash bin, but I think a clothes basket might be a better description as the lattice is quite large. I purchased the baskets at Dollar Tree for $1 each. Again, sorry for the busyness of the photo, I had various devices strung around the machine when I took these photos as I was vacuuming and never thought to move the cords out of the way.

[lcvette]

Nice!! That's awesome!! O know your pain of dripping coolant on your head, I wanted full front access on my machine so I made a vertical sliding door.. I need to put a drip edge on the inside as it like to drip if I don't blow it off really well before lifting the door. A simple channel on mine would cure the issue 99% with only a quick shot of air along the bottom of the drip edge before fully opening the door, bit I never got around to it.. perhaps if I remember the next time I'm at Lowe's I'll grab a piece of aluminum channel to pop on it.
I need a better drain in the enclosure as well. Or really I need to do some modifications to the pan, but with the new big machine due in the first week of October, all these things have fallen really low on my to do list.

I will probably tear the G0704 down and convert it to linear rails once the new machine is up and running. That way I have a nice fast 3D machine. I will take care of the mods to the enclosure at that point as well!

Your enclosure looks great to me, as long as it keeps the coolant and chips in and works as intended, rock and roll with it!!

Chris


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[CL_MotoTech]

Unfortunately my basement has very low ceilings with many pipe penetrations. I'm 5'6" and and there is only maybe 4" between my head and some of the pipes. When I flip the door up my head almost touches it. Right now I just wipe the door with an old t-shirt before standing under it. Elegant... I have a squeegee that I should start using.

I am going to add a slightly more sophisticated door jam, a surprising amount of coolant escapes under the door in certain conditions. I also get some spray over the top of the door at times. I may or may not address that at some point. Since these photos I actually went around and tidied up my wiring. I bought a load of TC105 brackets a while back and finally got around to using them. Eventually I'll put a proximity sensor on the door that activates e-stop if the door is opened.

My drain orientation really is a product of the Grizzly base, but it works very well. In the second and third photos you can see four short pieces of aluminum angle, two on the right and two on the left. I use those as dams right at the drains. A lot of the coolant that comes down the floor of the enclosures from above the drain get diverted by those dams into the drains. They are just held in place with magnets, which is nice when it comes time to clean, it also means I can adjust their orientation and it eliminated penetrations in the enclosure floor. I get a very shallow puddle at the bottom of the enclosure, but with the table level that puddle drains evenly into both the left and right drains. I'm not sure how I got it all to work so well, dumb luck I suppose.

I saw in the Hoss thread you were talking about sealed spindle bearings. I am using the standard old AC bearing conversion, but I was concerned about coolant in the bearings. I put an o-ring on the spindle between the bearing and the bottom spindle cap (for lack of a better name) and then another o-ring outside the bottom cap. After running like this for a couple of hours I checked the spindle grease, looks brand new. It's a low tech solution, but I had the o-rings on hand already so I had nothing to lose. The o-rings are not compressed and are only held in place by the friction they generate by being stretched over the spindle, but as a labyrinth seal they seem to be working excellent.

[lcvette]

Yeah my spindle bearings are doing great, it's my x axis thrust bearings that keeps taking a beating and gets crunchy feeling from time to time.. I am expecting my replacements today.. gotta love Amazon prime..lol. Out for delivery now!!

Hopefully I'll get it back up and running shortly. Have some parts to go back is for the lathe build I desperately need finished...

Chris

[CL_MotoTech]

Ahhh, I guess I didn't read close enough.

Amazon prime really is unbeatable for some things. I ordered couplers from there, not only were they the cheapest there, but they arrive the next day.

[lcvette]

Ahhh, I guess I didn't read close enough.

Amazon prime really is unbeatable for some things. I ordered couplers from there, not only were they the cheapest there, but they arrive the next day.

Hahaha...I did to, noticed the oil oldhams were looking a little bit with after 6 years of use.. ordered a new set, $27 shipped for X axis.. hoping the table backlash finally matches my other two axis's, X had always been a problem child for me. Y had always been at around 0.0012" and X is a performative 0.0025" on a good day.. I also pulled the trigger on some double nut ball screws and some real bearing blocks for when I modify this machine for linear rails. Nice to have that stuff on hand..

Chris

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[TitaniumProcess]

Ahhh, I guess I didn't read close enough.

Amazon prime really is unbeatable for some things. I ordered couplers from there, not only were they the cheapest there, but they arrive the next day.

It's true. Sometimes they come in packs with more than I need, but at least I have some on hand!

[lcvette]

I got in a gallon of the Koolrite 2290 I'm going to try it as mist first too see if I get any rust under the vice. I have a long way untill I go full fool but I have been hoping for something low cost and effective at stopping rust. Hope it works out well.

Any updates on the mist results?

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[Signal9]

lcvette,

So how did you clean out the original coolant from your system? I would presume the old coolant would be all over the machine and chip tray. Did you use some neutral liquid to wash it out?

[lcvette]

lcvette,

So how did you clean out the original coolant from your system? I would presume the old coolant would be all over the machine and chip tray. Did you use some neutral liquid to wash it out?

Warm water and a small amount of dawn detergent through the lines, physically washed the sump bucket then rinsed and rinsed and rinsed until it was squeaky clean. Then mixed the new coolant and filled it up and rinsed the enclosure and machine down for rust prevention.

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