[TXFred]

Where did you source it and which specific grade, I hear that Blaser is like the industry standard in big shops.

It's Blasocut 2000 Universal. I called Blaser and they referred me to a local dealer.

The best part is, Blaser has a program to get new customers. They will fill your coolant system for free and write off the coolant. So I got a free gallon of the stuff.

I told the dealer,"I have a 5 gallon tank, so this gallon will last me a long time." He was OK with that, and I have since gone back to him for other items. It's a great example of a business that takes the long term view.

While you're picking up your coolant, be sure to ask how to pronounce "Blaser." It's Swiss, so it's not pronounced the way that you would expect. It's more like "BLAHser."

Sincerely,
Frederic

[El Ventu]

In last months I returned to work for my old employer.
The factory where I use blaser has business problems becouse of the crisis, and I had another chance to work in my first job as lathe machinist.

Here we don't use Blaser...
I see some differencies, first of all, my hand skin is irritated...
Coolant stinks a lot more and it leaves a sticky "paint" when drying...and it is more difficult to avoid sticking problems on toolos when working aluminum alloys like 6060 or 6068...

cheers from Italy!

Davide

[SCzEngrgGroup]

I'm still pretty happy with KoolMist. It's cheap, completely harmless - no problems with breathing it when I use it as mist coolant, no skin irritation when using it as flood, no issues with rust. My only two issues are I see no good way to assess the concentration, other than by color (tried an optical hygrometer, but it just reads 0, regardless of concentration), and I suspect there may be other oil-based coolants that would provide better lubricity for deep drilling in aluminum, though that's a minor issue.

Regards,
Ray L.

[jid2]

Did a bit of research today. I see that either Koolmist 77 or Tricool TC-1, which are intended as mist coolant can be used as flood coolant. Their life and handling are very good. So that is an option for sure.

The other one that looks pretty good is Trim C350, it is a premium full synthetic coolant, that is water clear, and has all the desirable traits. I can get it from Grainger. I'm thinking I'm going to go with this.

[cncdan]

At work we switched from Trim 320 to Trim 585XT around two years ago. Before the switch, Monday mornings were often unbearable when they would start a machine that sat idle all weekend... the stench of rancid coolant was like an open sewer! After the switch to Trim 585XT I have not smelled ANY bad coolant. We have a large shop with over 20 CNC's and countless old manual machines, so the change was welcome for that reason alone. Before, when the machines started to smell, it was absolutely necessary to completely drain the machine and flush with Whamex, now as it never gets to the point of smelling... when the coolant becomes contaminated with tramp oils, they just drain off half the contents and top it up with fresh coolant.
I picked up a "Trial" sized container for my basement shop - if it lasts that long at work, I'm hoping it will last for a long time between infrequent jobs on my machines in the basement.

[lcvette]

Bumping this, how has everyone been liking their coolant choices? I have finally run out of the nasty stuff I bought (went rancid about every week or so with limited machine use).. And have been considering the koolmist77 for its longevity even in minimal use machines. Just curious how everyone else was fairing.

Thanks,

Chris

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[DSpeck]

I use Hangsterfers' CF500 - good stuff. Water-soluble, mild but not unpleasant odor, no breathing problems, does not harm paint in the mills. I can use it for rigid tapping as well as for standard milling and turning, and it works for both. It doesn't get stinky, which is a nice bonus. It seems to reject the tramp oils pretty well, which can be skimmed with a regular skimmer. CF500 blows off the finished parts OK, but a rinse (for Al parts) finishes it. The steel parts seem to be left with a mildly rust-resistant coating.

Doug.

[toddbeau]

I'd like to hear more about Trim 585, Koolmist 77 did a fine job of removing the paint from my enclosure.

[lcvette]

Ah crap..just ordered some koolmist 77.. Bit my enclosure is anodized sheet aluminium.. But the mill is painted.. As long as it doesn't rust and cuts well I suppose it will be leaps and bounds above the skanky stuff I was using..

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[TXFred]

Bumping this, how has everyone been liking their coolant choices?

To my shame, my 1100 has sat unused for two years. I recently drained out the old Blasocut 2000 Universal coolant. After two years of sitting, it still smelled OK.

[lcvette]

Damn... Impressive

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[LeeWay]

I am still using Koolmist 77. When I think I have it mixed about right, I add a bit more. I am considering a change though. Thinking about Qualichem, but I ain't there yet. I'll have to reread the choices in this thread.
I've thought about changing it many times, but every time I need new stuff, I keep ordering the same stuff. It is working, but I have to think I might get a little more life out of my taps with an oil based solution. I do get pretty good mileage out of the as is though. It is rare to break one.

[lcvette]

I don't do any rigid tapping, only thread milling and 95% aluminum work with some in frequent steel or free machining stainless.

Have you been happy with it for your general machining operations? Good endmill life nice surface finish?

I have tried rustslick from grizzly and Lennox saw lubricant (don't laugh, its all I had, it was amazing for surface finish and tool wear but it had a pot life of a out a week and at the end it smelled like sewage... Can't wait for the koolmist77 to arrive.. Anything that doesn't smell like a septic tank at this point is a step in the right direction!


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[LeeWay]

Yeah. The Koolmist does work and never smells bad. It will deteriorate polycarbonate though. Once I switched to acrylic doors on the enclosure, all is good. My machine stand is powder coated. I think the control panel is as well. Koolmist doesn't effect it. I think the cast iron parts on the mill are painted, but I have seen no adverse effects. I do run it a little rich for the tapping, so if it effected a good well cured painted surface, I haven't seen that. I will probably be thinking about switching again this time next year and the year after that too.

I don't do much facing and what I do is usually done with smaller end mills for pockets in steel and aluminum. They come out nice and require no extra work to powder coat. When I have used my face mill, I did get really nice surface finish. Both aluminum and mild steel. I haven't tried any stainless yet though.