Has anyone used Thread-sert (Blind Rivet with Built-in Threads) to hold the EMT to the wood?
Has anyone used Thread-sert (Blind Rivet with Built-in Threads) to hold the EMT to the wood?
Thread-sert! excellent idea! i had the stuff less than five feet away and never thought of it. that should work great. i'm going to try on the X rails. I just made sure i had enough inserts and that the tools were in good shape. it's been years since i have used the stuff. I'll post some picts and let you know how it works tonight. Rev
Do you mean these things? How do you put them in?
Thats not what I'm talking about. the ones i'm talking about go into the hole similar to a poprivit. and leaves behind threads. I will show pictures tonight. here is the link to Snap-on. it describes it a little. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools...e=snapon-store
copy and paste it if necessary.
I got one from Harbor Frieght for 10-15.00. I've used a couple of them in aluminum sheet, its no snap-on but the threads are still holding. I dont understand how they would work in wood though.
Halfnutz
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
This is the one I"m talking abouth;
Like this: http://www.lowbucktools.com/rivet.html
For the EMT
Like this: http://www.lowbucktools.com/rivet.html
Originally Posted by Halfnutz
I guess it depends on the perspective. I've been a power user for so long I've lost touch with the hobby mentality. The casual user would consider a motor with 2 bases about the same as 2 routers and think he saved some money. I would consider it a huge waste of money. Not just because of the cost of the extra base that I would never use, but more for the lost time in setup changes if I ever did make the mistake of swapping the motor around. Time is money to someone who uses their tools and machines to make money and dicking with setups is a sure time killer. One of the reasons I built my cnc router was to eliminate many setups in the stuff I make. Would I ever consider tearing it down to mount the spindle in a second base just to cut a slot I could cut with the machine itself?....
A beginner in this trade,hobby,business,profession would consider changing bits in his router part of the fun. To me it represents lost time and a general pita. I have 4 cheap china trim routers just so I can avoid setups with laminate operations. Then there are the 2 handheld full sizes, plunge and micro adjust. I try never to use them now that I have the cnc running because I hate manual routing. Same for the rotozip....crude whacker. But, I do have a plunge router in a dedicated table hanging off my table saw. Love it after I got it hooked up to the dust collector. Oh, yea, have a bench top shaper mounted in a 4' dedicated table for raised panels. Use that table mostly for laminate gluing, though.
When I finished my machine (is it ever finished...lol), I bought the Hitachi 12VC from Lowes; it was $114, not $130. The first thing I did was take the base off and store it in the box. The two won't touch each other till I decide to sell them. I wish I could have just bought the motor without the base. If I count right this is router #10.
BTW, don't mistake using that HF light dimmer/switch thingy as a replacement for a real VS machine. What it does is limit power, not control speed. Real rotational speed control is done with linear feedback, not in-line power limitation.
Steve
DO SOMETHING, EVEN IF IT'S WRONG!
Hello! I tried the nutsert idea. It did work but you really need to pay attention to the angle of install otherwise your 1/4 bolts are pointed in different directions. IE.. One straight up 12:00 and the next at 12:03 get the idea. I'm sticking with the nuts even though they are a little harder to install they compensate for the holes not being perfect.
ALSO!!! For those that upgraded the pine to a hard wood like oak. You need to upgrade the drywall screws. I must have broken half a dozen screws. Even with pilot holes. I would recommend using standard wood screws.
Just thought I would drop a line and let you know. How is someone or anyone for that facts build going? I applied my first coat of paint to the main frame last night. Picts will follow by the end of the weekend.
Later Rev.
Im not starting for a while yet (Maybe 2 mths) . Please keep throwing up the info, its preventing me from hitting the same snags. Thanks.
Heres the latest pict of my build. I can't wait to dig into some wood!
BTW here is the picts of the nutsert I said I would post.
I know it's hard to see but I was trying to show you what the nutsert looked like on the inside
Thats great RevTech. I can't wait to start mine. I like your presidential blue. Looks almost good enough to sell! Thanks for the threadsert pics, I get the idea from them. So how long will it have taken you from start to finish? Dont forget the photos of your first cuts...or even better...video!
L8rs.
Looking good RevTech. I painted my frame yesterday (dark green). I am only a couple of days behind you. Will post some pictures soon.
Im starting to regret this thread now. When I finally get started no-one will be interested in mine anymore because it'll be old news.....
.... Only kidding. Keep the pics a comin!
sorry
Diarmaid, there are many simple parts to make in this DIY router. Just start with those pieces and you will be amazed at your progress!
Here are a couple of photos of my Solsylva router. I added an inch to the legs because my trimmer router extended below the bottom of the Z axis carriage. As you can see, the end plates, with bearings, have not yet been attached to the Y axis gantry. The entire assembly is sitting on a 48" X 60" table built specifically for the project.
RevTech, did you experience any straightness problems with the EMT after installing the threaded inserts?
Regards
lol...dont be! I was only joking. This thread and everyones info is great, it's only drawback is that Im itching more and more to get started!!Originally Posted by Revtech
Wilabee, that looks great. I like the table, everything has its place & theres a place for everything.
Maybe you can both comment on the type of wood used. In another thread it was mentioned that solid wood might be a bad idea due to warpage, cracking, knots etc. Hence I think Im going to go with the suggested hardboard. Looks like Wilabee used solid wood aswell.What do you both think?
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21696
Hello Diarmaid,
I used a "straight" fir 2x4 for the "Y" axis gantry. What a mistake. I spent at least three hours trying to get the EMT rails straight and parallel. My "X" axis frames are made up from 1/2" AC plywood. AC plywood has one "good" side and very few voids in the laminations. I cut six strips 4" wide by 48" long and glued three of each face to face, creating a laminated 2x4. I then re-sawed the glued pieces on both edges to a width of 3-1/2". The result was a very straight and rigid "2x4", and EMT alignment was not a problem.
Regards
Hi Guys;
If you are looking for ideas t get the creative juices going pick up the latest copy of ShopNotes. They have an article on a home brew panel saw. Obviously not a CNC machine but they do cover interesting ideas in linear movement. The concepts may be transferrable to CNC devices built out of wood.
Any thing that gets the creative energy up is worth a look in my mind. Sure it is far from a CNC machine but I have to say I like some of he concepts. like they say there is more than one way to skin a cat.
Dave
Yes, Wiz, I get them also and it is a great DIY article, I would love to build one myself, but I couldnt find that much empty wallspace in my garage if my life depended on it. I love that rag, it is one of my favorites. They had a really nice drum sander project last month that looked really nice also
Halfnutz
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)