[louieatienza]

Thanks Roman! The SuperPID works great with the DeWalt router. I'm pretty much done with tests and started cutting small jobs with the machine. Should have some vids of that soon.

For now, here's the DXF file for the dust shoe. By looking at the pics it should be clear which piece goes where. The main parts are made of 1/2" chopping board, and the shield is 1/4" polycarbonate. I used threaded rod couplers for spacers, and 1/4"-20 X 1" screws to tie everything together. The base diameter of the DeWalt is about 2.7", and the design allows for a press fit - a flat head screwdriver is inserted into the slot and twisted to expand teh opening to fit the base to the router. The groove fits the strip brush sold at McMaster. And the vacuum port fits 1-1/4" vacuum hose, good for my mini shopvac.

[louieatienza]

I have a buddy who wants me to produce some 1911 pistol grips. We plan on using some exotic hardwoods as well as some man-made materials, and will also be experimenting with different grip textures.

To proof the CAD files I ran a set out of cast aluminum. For a first run on the new machine I think they came out great. Wish I had a tumbler... though the toolmarks are kind of cool.

I started off by cutting a rough profile of the parts. Next I used a high speed open pocket strategy to rough out the contour. That followed with a planar rouging toolpath to smooth out the stairstepping. I did two finish passes, since my setup had a little bit of "spring" to it. The finish pass on the bevel was done perpendicular to the top to add contrast. I also used a pencil tracing toolpath to clean up the bosses. Finally a cleanup profile pass to smooth up the edges.

Overall I'm happy with the results. I didn't have a ball endmill for the finish passes so I used a straight endmill, which probably didn't leave as good a finish as I could get. Also as this was a prototype I did not machine the cunterbores in the back nor front. Lastly I do not own a 1911 so I cannot check the fitment; my friend lives in Flrida so it will have to be shipped out (and the counterbores done manually.)

I have some vids also on my YouTube channel:
AtienzaLouie's channel - YouTube

[CarveOne]

The 1911A grips look easy enough, but they got complicated fast when I started on my own effort. I have the right side grip files working well, but haven't worked on the left side lately to finish it. It probably won't take long once I can get back to it. Critical thinking about fixturing and front to back alignment makes my mind hurt too much.

They look pretty in red oak. I bandsawed 3/4" board to ~3/8" halves, zero the Z axis on the table top. Place the smooth side of the wood against the table top, and there is no need to surface plane the rough side of the board. The grips end up all being the same thickness.

I'm using a 1/8" straight flute Bosch router bit to do the flat side pockets and holes. The holes go down into the fixture board. I insert wood pegs into the screw holes, flip it over on the pegs, then mill the rounded side with a 1/8" tapered ball nose bit. Last operation does the screw head pockets and the profile cut. The little notch in the bottom corner of each side is for a pin that goes through the frame. Putting a dimple at that location would let the grip cover the pin if a notch is not desired. Some of the pins are not flush with the frame.

The left side grip has an angled round notch that covers a round thumb safety operating rod. That angle is fairly critical. I do it with the 1/8" tapered ball nose bit while cutting the flat side of the grip. The final profile finishes out the top end shape.

In my steel channel build log are some photos I posted back in October or November. To be continued when I get interested in it again.

[louieatienza]

C1, I actually received only one side, so for sake of proofing I just mirrored the model to make the pair. I should be getting an actual set of grips to confirm measurements and add features.

The phenolic in the pics is actually a quick foxture board I made for this project. I have it set up where the blank is pre-machined with the holes, then the holes are used to index the blank on the fixture. I didn't have a good fitting bolt for the mounting holes on the grips, but it looks like an M5 bolt would fit snugly.

I think when I make a set proper, I will not cut the profile all the way through until the end. I do need the clearance for the smaller bits however, but keeping everything one piece until the end should make a more ridgid setup.

I have some crazy woods planned for this project, including some nice spalted maple, figured ebony, bubinga, mexican rosewood.... I also am working on adding a knurled pattern to the grip. It would be pretty simple to draw the pattern in 2D and then "map" it onto the surface and cut it using the "engrave variable Z" toolpath" in OneCNC.

I should note that I had to grind the heads of the bolts I used smaller, as they would have interfered with the machining of the bosses on the grips, as I found out the hard way (which is also why I didn't have a 1/18" ballnose endmill!)

[CarveOne]

I have some of those same plans for using the many types of woods I have on hand and will get later. Checkering patterns can easily be done, but the little diamonds will look like they are leaning a little near the edges of the grips. The Z axis needs to tilt so that it stays perpendicular to the surface. It won't be off much though. I tried to cut a 1" Aztec calendar in the grips just for grins but the V-bit tip isn't small enough. Looks good in the simulations.

[louieatienza]

I have some of those same plans for using the many types of woods I have on hand and will get later. Checkering patterns can easily be done, but the little diamonds will look like they are leaning a little near the edges of the grips. The Z axis needs to tilt so that it stays perpendicular to the surface. It won't be off much though. I tried to cut a 1" Aztec calendar in the grips just for grins but the V-bit tip isn't small enough. Looks good in the simulations.

I was thinking, for the aluminum ones, to cut grooves, and insert molded rubber grips, for a somewhat "futuristic" look, and possibly leave the "checkering" for the wood handled grips. I think, even without a rotary axis, it should be fine as the whole grip desn't seem to need to be checkered. Though, admittedly, I am no gun expert. I do have a rotary planned for this machine and hope to implement it in the near future.

Also, if the checkering was modeled in 3D, I might be able to get into those areas with a 30 or 45 degree v-bit; will have to actually model it and see.

[CarveOne]

I was thinking, for the aluminum ones, to cut grooves, and insert molded rubber grips, for a somewhat "futuristic" look, and possibly leave the "checkering" for the wood handled grips. I think, even without a rotary axis, it should be fine as the whole grip desn't seem to need to be checkered. Though, admittedly, I am no gun expert. I do have a rotary planned for this machine and hope to implement it in the near future.

Also, if the checkering was modeled in 3D, I might be able to get into those areas with a 30 or 45 degree v-bit; will have to actually model it and see.

Checkering normally has a 60 degree angle diamond pattern and is cut with either 60 or 90 degree Vee hand tools or motorized tools. The line spacings vary from 20 to 32 lines per inch depending on what it's for. 24 to 28 are more popular. Checkering and carving books are available online. I have a couple of them from back in the 60's and a set of Gunline hand checkering tools I bought back in the 70's. The CNC machine will make this go much faster with better results.

[louieatienza]

Checkering normally has a 60 degree angle diamond pattern and is cut with either 60 or 90 degree Vee hand tools or motorized tools. The line spacings vary from 20 to 32 lines per inch depending on what it's for. 24 to 28 are more popular. Checkering and carving books are available online. I have a couple of them from back in the 60's and a set of Gunline hand checkering tools I bought back in the 70's. The CNC machine will make this go much faster with better results.

Can you post a pic of a checkered grip for reference? Would be very helpful...

[CarveOne]

Here are some quick photos of my Kimber Compact 1911A grips. I modeled them in Aspire. The unfinished right side red oak grip is the one I have finished work on. This is just as as it came off the CNC machine with no sanding. The tapered 1/8" ball nose bit from Precise Bits did a nice job on the curved side.

Search online for 1911A grips and there will be lots of grips to look at. There's a lot more than the traditional line checkering style available.

The grip holes have a small ledge on the top side and on the bottom side that serves to lock the grip onto the frame. If you do those cuts on the CNC machine they will be centered properly, and the correct depth, with no additional labor afterwards. To get them aligned with the frame properly involves having a sample frame readily available.

There are at least two standardized sizes of grips, full size, and compact. There are probably other custom size and shapes as well.

What remains to be done on my left side grip is to reposition the screw holes just slightly to get the grip just a little bit better centered on the frame. Front to back alignment is correct. It's ready to use otherwise.

Then the fun begins with coming up with designs for checkering, fish scale, logos, and other wildlife designs. Still need to buy some really fine tip engraving cutters for that 1" Aztec calendar I created for the first Corian grip set.

[atwooddon]

Cool!! My son wants me to make some new grips for his 1911. It belonged to my Dad, he 'acquired' it in WWII so it is original issue... ;-) We have been able to verify all the serial and parts numbers, it is absolutely original. One grip has a crack in it so would like to be able to make some new ones with my Dad's initials or something like that in it.

Any chance you could share dxf drawings of just the blanks? Or just a dimensional drawing? I don't have the original grips here so can't really work on it without them. Have found some drawings on the web but don't know if they are accurate or not.

I have a lot of oak trees here on our property and will probably make the grips from local wood with some type of inlay for his initials if that is the way we go.

thanks
Don

[CarveOne]

The original Colt GI pistols are the full size grips. I don't have that size in CAD files yet.

I found this direct zip file download link that contains IGS files in it if you can do anything with that. http://stuff.jfettigmachines.com/1911/grips/grips.zip

[louieatienza]

Cool!! My son wants me to make some new grips for his 1911. It belonged to my Dad, he 'acquired' it in WWII so it is original issue... ;-) We have been able to verify all the serial and parts numbers, it is absolutely original. One grip has a crack in it so would like to be able to make some new ones with my Dad's initials or something like that in it.

Any chance you could share dxf drawings of just the blanks? Or just a dimensional drawing? I don't have the original grips here so can't really work on it without them. Have found some drawings on the web but don't know if they are accurate or not.

I have a lot of oak trees here on our property and will probably make the grips from local wood with some type of inlay for his initials if that is the way we go.

thanks
Don

Don, the CAD files are not mine, so I cannot share them. What I can do is post the outlines. I also haven't verified the accuracy of the part, though I have to say the parts mirrored exactly, so my mahine's squareness must be pretty close.

I'll have them here later on tomight when I get home. I also want to tweak the swept srfaces a little bit, as the model i have has a bit of a flat near the center.

[louieatienza]

The original Colt GI pistols are the full size grips. I don't have that size in CAD files yet.

I found this direct zip file download link that contains IGS files in it if you can do anything with that. http://stuff.jfettigmachines.com/1911/grips/grips.zip

The file looks good and I can create toolpaths from it, but there are no screw hole locations nor counterbores?

[CarveOne]

I have a full size grip set and can give you the screw hole locations relative to the ends and sides of the grip and spacing between the holes.

[atwooddon]

Thanks C1

I was able to download the IGS files and open them in ViaCAD. One grip seems to show hole locations on the bottom but can't be sure. I converted the files to STL format and attached them here if someone wants them. I typically use CamBam for my 3D CAM work and it handles STL files fine.

Don

[CarveOne]

Aspire doesn't import IGS files. There are probably converters available. Can you export the models as .stl?

The compact grip size is just a shortened version. The screw spacings center to center:

Full = 3.050"
Compact = 2.650"

Full = 4.125" overall length
1.250" width at top screw location
1.52" width at bottom screw location
Screws are centered in the width dimension.

The bottom edge can be 90 degrees or a 60 degree angle.

Click this link and you can download or print the 62 page PDF manual for the 1911A pistol. Page 58 shows the dimensioned grip drawings.

[CarveOne]

Thanks C1

I was able to download the IGS files and open them in ViaCAD. One grip seems to show hole locations on the bottom but can't be sure. I converted the files to STL format and attached them here if someone wants them. I typically use CamBam for my 3D CAM work and it handles STL files fine.

Don

Thanks for the file Don.

Note that the drawing dimensions in the PDF file I linked to has some differences in the shapes and dimensions relative to the more modern Kimber Gold Match 1911A grip set I used for the measurements I just posted.

[louieatienza]

Thanks for the file Don.

Note that the drawing dimensions in the PDF file I linked to has some differences in the shapes and dimensions relative to the more modern Kimber Gold Match 1911A grip set I used for the measurements I just posted.

C1 thanks for the link, will check that out tonight; been crazy here last couple days.

[CarveOne]

Thanks C1

I was able to download the IGS files and open them in ViaCAD. One grip seems to show hole locations on the bottom but can't be sure. I converted the files to STL format and attached them here if someone wants them. I typically use CamBam for my 3D CAM work and it handles STL files fine.

Don

Aspire gives an error "check the file contains model" when I import either of your STL files.

[louieatienza]

Aspire gives an error "check the file contains model" when I import either of your STL files.

Give me a list of files Aspire CAN import, and I'll comvert them for you....