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IndustryArena Forum > WoodWorking Machines > DIY CNC Router Table Machines > Build Log: RMGVideos XZero Raptor Build
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  1. #41
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    May 2008
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    4068
    That is funny Scott, that is the same the new Z axis plates are being done now ,
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_8125 (Large).jpg  
    XZero cnc

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    3891
    Quote Originally Posted by gio666 View Post
    That is funny Scott, that is the same the new Z axis plates are being done now ,
    yay, now bring that one over before monday morning
    whats the spacing on those holes? the old holes were 100mm, so this allows a bigger spindle block than just just threading the old holes.

  3. #43
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    May 2008
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    4068
    also the adaptor plate for Teknomotor and the Colombo spindles to mount to Z axis plate
    XZero cnc

  4. #44
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    May 2008
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    They are almost the same as Scott put them
    XZero cnc

  5. #45
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    May 2008
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    XZero cnc

  6. #46
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    Mar 2009
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    388
    Quote Originally Posted by gio666 View Post
    Great minds think alike

    Scott...
    RMGreen Videos - Instructional Videos for Woodworking, CNC, Guitar Building

  7. #47
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    388
    It never fails, you never get as much done as you want to. After I got the z axis plate sized and drilled, I was putting my flycutter on my mill to face the plate before I recessed the holes for the bolts, and stripped the drawbar out on my mill. So, now I have to make a new drawbar before I can get any farther. Oh well, I have been meaning to make a new drawbar anyway so I can put an airpowered drawbar tool on top of the mill.

    Hope to have the mill's drawbar finished up this week, and back to finishing the plate this weekend.

    What do I have left to do before I can cut something?
    1) Spindle Plate.
    2) Wire and test spindle.
    3) Install Igus chain.
    4) Figure out a way to mount a spoilboard.

    Other stuff to do:
    1) Check and adjust (if possible) squareness of machine.
    2) Install new Mach3 2010 screensets I purchased.
    3) Figure out a realistic speed to run this thing at.
    4) Build Indexer.
    5) Test some aluminum cuts.
    6) Install Inductive Prox sensors.

    Stay Tuned,
    Scott
    http://www.rmgvideos.com/

  8. #48
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    117
    Other stuff to do:
    1) Check and adjust (if possible) squareness of machine.

    GOOD LUCK with this one!!!
    I just had to machine my gantry sides to allow me to adjust the squareness of the machine. The squareness error bolted together right out of the box was .06" over 20". After I machined the side rail pockets to allow some adjustment I was able to adjust to .01" over 20". I couldnt adjust better than this because it was actually bowing in the middle probably because of the way I adjusted it. The error is acceptable to me at this level.

    I have some videos showing the parallelism adjustment of the Z rails before an after tweeking.
    [nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOl15Z08scM"]YouTube - XZero CNC 8" Z AXIS Hiwin Rails[/nomedia]

    And also some interesting resolution tests on the Z axis.
    [nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVNPAVfAhoc"]YouTube - Xzero Hiwin Z axis motion resolution[/nomedia]

  9. #49
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    388
    Ok, made some great progress tonight. Got my drawbar finished on the mill, the spindle plate faced, countersunk and finished and the spindle mounted to the machine. I'm pretty happy with where I am tonight, and can get a bunch of stuff done tomorrow that I didnt think I would get to.

    Scott...

    RMGreen Videos - Instructional Videos for Woodworking, CNC, Guitar Building
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_8127 (Large).jpg   IMG_8131 (Large).jpg   IMG_8133 (Large).jpg  

  10. #50
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    Mar 2009
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    388
    Installed tray for Igus cable carrier...

    Scott
    RMGreen Videos - Instructional Videos for Woodworking, CNC, Guitar Building
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_8134 (Large).jpg   IMG_8135 (Large).jpg   IMG_8136 (Large).jpg  

  11. #51
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    117
    MACH3 Squareness Compensation results
    [nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-QaadFxu_E"]YouTube - Xzero Raptor Squareness Compensation[/nomedia]


    Quote Originally Posted by buckeyes1997 View Post
    Other stuff to do:
    1) Check and adjust (if possible) squareness of machine.

    GOOD LUCK with this one!!!
    I just had to machine my gantry sides to allow me to adjust the squareness of the machine. The squareness error bolted together right out of the box was .06" over 20". After I machined the side rail pockets to allow some adjustment I was able to adjust to .01" over 20". I couldnt adjust better than this because it was actually bowing in the middle probably because of the way I adjusted it. The error is acceptable to me at this level.

    I have some videos showing the parallelism adjustment of the Z rails before an after tweeking.
    YouTube - XZero CNC 8" Z AXIS Hiwin Rails

    And also some interesting resolution tests on the Z axis.
    YouTube - Xzero Hiwin Z axis motion resolution

  12. #52
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    388
    Quote Originally Posted by buckeyes1997 View Post
    MACH3 Squareness Compensation results
    YouTube - Xzero Raptor Squareness Compensation
    Wow, very nice! One would expect that you would receive it that way given that it was cut on a CNC mill!

    Scott...

    RMGreen Videos - Instructional Videos for Woodworking, CNC, Guitar Building

  13. #53
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    Mar 2009
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    388
    X Axis Igus cable carrier installed...

    Scott...

    RMGreen Videos - Instructional Videos for Woodworking, CNC, Guitar Building
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_8137 (Large).jpg   IMG_8138 (Large).jpg   IMG_8139 (Large).jpg  

  14. #54
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    Mar 2009
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    388
    As I expected I now have a problem with the X axis motor coupler. I ran the machine up against the stop, and now the coupler is spinning on the ballscrew shaft. This design is terrible. I now have to take the machine off of the stand, take entire endplate off of the machine, and hope that I can replace the bolt that I ground off to get the coupler to fit in the endplate hole. Again, this is a terrible design! If I can not get the coupler off of the shaft, I am going to have to wait weeks before George gets me another coupler where I once again have to grind the head off of the bolt.

    Scott...

    RMGreen Videos - Instructional Videos for Woodworking, CNC, Guitar Building


    Quote Originally Posted by sagreen View Post
    To be clear, this is not an issue right now. I'm not even worried about it at this point. George you dont have to send me a different coupler right now. I just dont like the way the coupling was implemented. The only time this would be a problem is when you want to remove the coupler, which I have not had to do. With the exception of the gantry height, I really like the machine. I've not cut anything yet so the gantry height is not even an issue yet. I'm just calling it as I see it in the build log.

    Scott
    RMGreen Videos - Instructional Videos for Woodworking, CNC, Guitar Building

  15. #55
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    Mar 2009
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    388
    Ok, WAY WORSE THAN I THOUGHT...

    I took the endplate off of the machine, and the pin that george installed in the end of the ballscrew fell out! I was told that this pin was oversided, and put in with liquid nitrogen... No idea how this will get fixed...

    Scott
    RMGreen Videos - Instructional Videos for Woodworking, CNC, Guitar Building
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_8140 (Large).jpg   IMG_8141 (Large).jpg  

  16. #56
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    Jul 2006
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    1256
    Scott,I just don't get it.The motor side or end of a ballscrew usually looks a bit different than yours.Is there a set of A/C bearings?Perhaps I am confused.Yes.What does the opposite end of the ballscrew look like?I have never seen a setup like this before.
    Larry
    L GALILEO THE EPOXY SURFACE PLATE IS FLAT

  17. #57
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    15362
    sagreen

    I have not seen such primitive work/design like this in a long time, George you are no machinist, or have a clue about designing, Nobody builds machines to sell with work like this

    Thanks for showing this Scott, & I hope other people see this, to know what they are getting into when buying these machines
    Mactec54

  18. #58
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
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    388
    Quote Originally Posted by lgalla View Post
    Scott,I just don't get it.The motor side or end of a ballscrew usually looks a bit different than yours.Is there a set of A/C bearings?Perhaps I am confused.Yes.What does the opposite end of the ballscrew look like?I have never seen a setup like this before.
    Larry
    Ok, I spoke with george, and he's going to take care of the problem. In the mean time I am going to turn a new pin in my lathe (temporary solution) and get back moving...

    lgalla,

    The pictures are on the ballscrew side of the motor. George drilled the inside of the ballscrew and inserted a dowel pin for the motor shaft. Way easier than milling down the ballscrew. The ballscrew is 25mm in diameter. Apparently the pin was undersided and didnt hold. Make sense?

    Scott...
    http://www.rmgvideos.com/

  19. #59
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    Jan 2005
    Posts
    15362
    lgalla

    He has press/shrink fitted a dowel pin in the end of the ballscrew,which is the drive for the ballscrew, the pin has the drive coupling & bearing on it

    This should never be done like this, This is what you would call a temporary fix, for something that has broken down, & you are waiting for new parts to be made
    Mactec54

  20. #60
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    4068
    Quote Originally Posted by mactec54 View Post
    sagreen

    I have not seen such primitive work/design like this in a long time, George you are no machinist, or have a clue about designing, Nobody builds machines to sell with work like this

    Thanks for showing this Scott, & I hope other people see this, to know what they are getting into when buying these machines
    i had got this design off of machines that sell for half a million dollars, i asked them why ,and the reason was when you machine a ballcrew down ,you are machining the hardness away , so once all the hardness is gone the centre of the ballscrew is soft,which will cause vibration and bounce on heavy ballscrews,
    with centre bore you still have all the harness and the dowel pins are precision ground and hardened,which would make the ballscrew a lot stronger on the ends, funny there is lots of Japan made machines do the same thing ,as where they got the idea from and has worked for years with no problem for them and 20 feet long and 3000ipm speed

    mactec54 i see you try jumping on everything to put my stuff down , just the last post you made about profiles ,say if they know how to take care of there stuff lol meantime the company sales are over 50 million a year around the world
    XZero cnc

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