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IndustryArena Forum > Mechanical Engineering > Epoxy Granite > Epoxy-Granite machine bases (was Polymer concrete frame?)
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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    1408
    Quote Originally Posted by brunog View Post
    Jsage,
    you must fillet the right angles at approx 3/4 inch radius.

    Regards

    Bruno
    Dear all,

    OK, I don't do aesthetics...but..

    there is a whole lot of really good information to be had from people who make "lifestyle" concrete countertops.
    just google
    FU-TUNG CHENG

    There is a lot of stuff about moulds, surface finishes, re-inforcement etc etc. in his book. Loads of it may be useful for E/G. It might even make Walter's
    gizmo more "sporty".

    Very best wishes

    Martin

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    277
    Well I have my R45, 7045 type base ready to do the final fill. The plumbing for the way lube is in as well as the tube inserts for the bench mount bolts to go through are attached with a little 5 min epoxy. The bolts that hold the inner frame in are just snugged down and a little locktite put on them as I didnt want to distort or stress the base by cranking down the bolts and pulling the two parts together too tight. The frame just keeps the epoxy where I want it. I will do the fill thursday and post more pics thur night. Dave
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails base11.JPG   base12.jpg   base13.jpg  

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    2502
    Let 'er rip, Dave. Should be a great improvement to the mill. I eagerly await the pix and commentary.

    Best,

    BW

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1256
    I have seen some posts suggesting a frame to pour in the E/G.If done this way E/G does not self level enough to be a pricision surface or plate.To acheive a precision epoxy surface plate,you would fill the frame withE/G to within 1/16 of the top of the frame.The final pour or pours are unfilled TT epoxy which must run over the edge of the frame to accomplish the precision plate.With inserts the usual method is to attach the inserts to the bottom of a mold and pour around the inserts.The problem with this method is the mold determines the surface accuracy.The raw epoxy,over the edge can acheive flatness to a few thou.
    Larry

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    157
    Igalla,

    Here's what I'm talking about. The orange is the e/p the black is non water catalyzed concrete.

    The milling base could be a secondary cast or somehow adjusted on mounted blocks. The critical part would be the upper sides which should be level.


    Obviously this is very rough concept.

    Mike.

    I used a 5 inch thickness Side height 1' 6". Outer dimensions are approx 5 x 10'. At $60 per cubic foot the e/p part costs approx $2,900? basic.
    (If rhino is giving me the correct volume)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Monolithic.jpg  

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1256
    Mike very ambitious project and very heavy.12k for E/G tons of mula.Deserves experementation before taking the plunge.Hope you have read early posts on epoxy surface plates.
    Any cheaper products to Zeeospheres?No.Zeospheres I beleive have a Mohs hardness of7or 8 which is similar to granites hardness.
    Thanks for the posts
    Larry

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    157
    Igalla,

    I just wanted to see what a given design would cost. Assuming basic dimensions without regard to price. Of course I made 3 math errors. I think I have right now. 3k would be out of my price range. However, if you could build the mold right it would be pretty simple and serve my needs.

    Haven't done any volume calcs in ages. Converting to cubic inches. Tried to do it in my head ; ) I think I need a beer, I have the concrete fuzzies.

    Just the top would weigh 7,800 pounds. Where's Zumba when I need him.

    Rhino volume 84,273 i set general measure of inches. 1 cubic foot 1,728 cu. 160 lbs each cu. 48.77 cf.

    Zeospheres look good.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1256
    Mike you got my attention on the beer idea.:cheers:
    After reading so many posts and good info a beer may help to clear the head of E/G and get a good nites sleep.The machine I need would cost $120,000.Hopfully we can roll our own for $15K
    Larry

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    157
    :cheers: :cheers:

    Here's to beers and smooth sailing on that goal.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    792
    Quote Originally Posted by lgalla View Post
    The machine I need would cost $120,000. Hopfully we can roll our own for $15K
    Sounds like a lot of work.. But I think it's worth the shot.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    157
    Curiousity Speaking,

    Put down beer. What degree of precision does everybody need to accomplish their primary goal.

    For me, right now I could use anything w/i 1/16th or better. Of course, I'd like to work harder materials including metals. I won't argue that good dampening will give me longer longevity for my effort. I'd like a fourth axis for greater 3d capability or semi 3d capability.

    Who wants to offer up.

    Larry, to post below, I'm wit u. One must fully consider before committing. Or being committed (%



    Best,

    Mike.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1256
    Mike you posted and edited while I was a-postin.7,800lbs!!I thought I was krazy at 3600ibs.Your forklift must be higher capicidy than mine.In reality a good comercial machine[5X10]weights 10,000lbs in welded steel.3600or7800lbs in E/G should blow away the commercial machines at 20% the cost.
    Larry

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    157
    Larry,

    well i felt like i was trying to turn a steel design into e/p. thought i'd take a steel-less tack. No caps b/c beer in other hand. Side height 1'7"7/8, quick draft.

    A lot of mixin and shakin. I did just buy a mixer, still would be a challenge.

    : )

    mike

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1256
    Mike
    I am of the group of steel framed enhansed with E/G with surface plate of epoxy.With 30 years of fool'lin around with epoxy and mold'in,I am not capable of cast'in a total E/G machine.Molds cost 5 to 10 times the part cost and designing in steel and E/G can be cost effective and very accurate.
    Larry

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1256
    Since posting in this thread I tend to keep my head down and look at the concrete sidewalk and curbs checking for cracks and trying to determine the aggreate used.I look at landscaped gardens and wonder where they got the cool aggregates.Is this a sign ofE/G addiction?Any one else have the problem?
    Larry

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    792
    Quote Originally Posted by lgalla View Post
    Since posting in this thread I tend to keep my head down and look at the concrete sidewalk and curbs checking for cracks and trying to determine the aggreate used.I look at landscaped gardens and wonder where they got the cool aggregates.Is this a sign ofE/G addiction?Any one else have the problem?
    Yep.... Hanging around those fake granite countertops and getting thrown out of Home Depot... Good times.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    325
    Quote Originally Posted by lgalla View Post
    Since posting in this thread I tend to keep my head down and look at the concrete sidewalk and curbs checking for cracks and trying to determine the aggreate used.I look at landscaped gardens and wonder where they got the cool aggregates.Is this a sign ofE/G addiction?Any one else have the problem?
    Larry
    I was at a home building show today, there was fluorescent green quartz or granite counter tops being displayed. I looked at everythingthat was concrete and tried to discover what kind of size ratio they had in their pours. I saw awsome aggregates from people doing ciment refinishing the guy at the booth never wanted to tell me who supplied him. LOL

    Regards

    Bruno

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1256
    Mike at that accuracy,1/16 many would say you don't need E/G and bishop wiscarvers and a light steel frame would be sufficent.To me a light duty frame could be +or-1/16.Repatibilty is the issue here.We want our cuts to be the same everytime.A light frame will distort whenever it wants to.Solid vibration damping design is a benefit even for low accuracy.
    Larry

  19. #19
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    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1256
    Ger21&Geof
    I see you guys are check'in the posts.Your feedback is always good and respected by me.Any comments on the last posts before I retire?It's 12:55 in TO land.
    Thanks
    Larry,Granite chip sweeper.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Posts
    792
    Speaking of countertops.. Here's an article from HGTV wbsite:


    "Ever since the invention of Formica in the '20s, kitchen countertops in America have been simply covered in laminates. During the past decade, though, natural stone surfaces have landed in ever more kitchens: granite, marble, soapstone and even concrete. But now there's a new countertop contender on the design scene: engineered quartz.
    Boasting the best qualities of laminate and stone (along with its own unique features), quartz began appearing in U.S. homes just a few years ago after gaining popularity in Europe for the past decade. Today, quartz countertops are exploding in popularity, with U.S. sales increasing 60 percent in 2004 alone.
    Although some quartz countertops are actually made of quarried slabs of the natural stone, the new engineered material is actually created through a manufacturing process that mixes approximately 95 percent ground natural quartz with 5 percent polymer resins. The result is a super-hard, low-maintenance, natural stone-look countertop available in a dazzling array of colors. And for many of the homeowners choosing quartz, those virtually unlimited color options are what sold them.
    "Color was most definitely a huge factor," says Gay Lyons, a college professor in Knoxville, Tenn. who replaced the white laminate countertops in the kitchen of her 1970s rancher with blue quartz. "Our kitchen is part of a large area that includes dining and seating areas, as well as an adjacent sunroom. The countertops needed to coordinate with not only what was in the kitchen, but what was in those other areas as well. The color I chose coordinates perfectly."
    Joe Everitt, an independent contractor who has spent the last decade remodeling New York City brownstones and lofts, says that homeowners love the fact that quartz allows color choices never before available in stone. But he says the best features of quartz are actually invisible.
    "These countertops are close to indestructible," explains Everitt. "They're so durable that most manufacturers offer a warranty, something you won't find with, say, granite. And quartz isn't porous like other stone surfaces, so these countertops are much more sanitary in a home kitchen. You can keep them 99.9 percent bacteria-free."
    This durability also means that, unlike other types of stone countertops, quartz resists staining or corrosion from cooking oils, liquids and most household cleaning products — so there's no need for periodic resealing of the surface. Quartz can be damaged by excessive heat, however, so homeowners should use trivets or heating pads.
    Quartz countertops allow for a variety of edging options, just like natural stone. Unlike stone, however, engineered quartz also offers other design possibilities. Because it's more flexible to work with and is held in place using glue and epoxy instead of screws, quartz can be used on larger vertical surfaces like backsplashes and even shower enclosures, without the fissures and seams often all too visible with natural stone.
    Despite its many advantages, installation of engineered quartz countertops isn't a job for the average do-it-yourselfer; the companies that make and sell engineered quartz certify their own installation experts.
    "Installation is a bit of a pain," says Lyons. "You have to obtain it from a (certified) distributor. They send people to measure and then they send installers. There's a bit of a wait involved between each of these steps."
    Also, because engineered quartz is significantly heavier than other stone surfaces, there are some special installation considerations.
    "It's important to make sure that you look at structural issues before installing quartz countertops, especially on upper floors" says Everitt. "The installer also needs to be sure that the cabinets are sound."
    The cost of engineered quartz countertops appears to be dropping as they grow in popularity and as more manufacturers make them available. In general, however, they are more expensive than laminate and comparable in price to granite, ranging from $100 to $200 per square foot."

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