[doorknob]

That is a regulated supply which should hold 48 volts very closely unless the load is drawing more than the rated current, in which case it would probably reduce the voltage, or else perhaps that is a symptom of a defective power supply.

[doorknob]

Your Z axis stepper wiring sounds correct (according to the specs at http://www.kelinginc.net/KL34H295-43-8B.pdf)

[rpovey]

It's hard to really say what's happening but if your seeing the voltage drop to 40V off that PSU, I'd have to believe it's not right. I also have to wonder what the flashing light on the PSU means, I don't suppose Kellings has a manual for it on his site?
The fact that you can drive X or Y but not X and Y to me says PSU, or some other borderline component.
I'd drop Kellings a line, and see what he has to say, he's going to be much more familiar with this stuff, unfortunate it's a long weekend.

[WOTDesigns]

im totally lost. I have just the X hooked up and checked the dc voltage from "12V" to "GRD" and it was 7.8-7.9v. when I start the motor it jumps up to 10v plush then back down a little and after a second the motor stops and starts right back up like the signal is interrupted. I can jog as many times as I want if they are small pulses, but when I hold it down it trips the fault after a few seconds. If i press the key several times quickly- same thing.

If i hook up the X and the Y I can do short bursts on either axis several times before it trips the fault. I am able to just touch the reset button on the screen to reset now (when I only have one or two motors hooked up)

I am clueless on where to go from here other than trying another PC, different PSU or Gecko. All of which cost money just to try. none of my laptops have PP or I would try hooking one up and ruling out the PC.

[rpovey]

I doubt it's the PC.
Measuring voltages to the steppers without a scope is a waste of time, because the meter is averaging.
What velocity/accel options do you have set in Mach's motor tuning?
I doubt those are the issue, usually the motors just stall.
As I said send Kelling an email, unless you have someone locally who can help trouble shoot I don't see another simple option.

[WOTDesigns]

i just set them to match a set up i found listed on CNCFusion forum @ (X=10200.64/60/2.5)(Y=10162.54/55.002/2.5)(Z=10160/30/.5)

just found another thread about the Keling KL600-48 where the guy received two defective ones in a row and said it would stall out the motors. Mine is measuring 48 (his was over that) but I am thinking that is the problem. guess I get to spend the rest of the weekend staring at one motor at a time :-(

[WOTDesigns]

fail

[rpovey]

Those should be fine, my defaults had stupid numbers in the acceleration which is the only reason I asked.

[WOTDesigns]

I really appreciate everyones help today. I am leaning hard toward bum PSU and will just have to wait and see. I am going to look around and see if there is anywhere local I can pick one up... it DOES pay to live in the congested parts of the country sometimes.

[WOTDesigns]

BIG FAT +1 FOR KELING

SUNDAY- on a holiday weekend and I just got a call back from Keling less than 30 minutes after emailing them!

He is sending me an unregulated power supply to test with and if it works I will just send him back the bad regulated one i have. I offered to pay for the difference but he seemed more interested in correcting the issue.

He said that if I am getting the green LED and some movement from the G540 then it is more likely the power supply. I am blown away with the customer service. Just amazing.

[Fastest1]

1 other thing to check, the battery in your meter. It can be really embarassing when it is your own equipment not reading correctly. Dont ask me how I know this (or read back very far on the Hobby CNC forum). Very rare do I read a negative about Keling. If there is a negative it is generally given in a moment of frustration by a new or less experienced user and retractions are needed later when he responds (usually within hours as with you).

[WOTDesigns]

1 other thing to check, the battery in your meter. It can be really embarrassing when it is your own equipment not reading correctly. Don't ask me how I know this (or read back very far on the Hobby CNC forum). Very rare do I read a negative about Keling. If there is a negative it is generally given in a moment of frustration by a new or less experienced user and retractions are needed later when he responds (usually within hours as with you).

:cheers:

I have spent many hours chasing my tail to find out it was a low 9v in a meter at work. I now have a pile of $.99 ones in my van door for just such occasions.

I actually apologized to John? that called me yesterday. I was very frustrated and "less experienced" as you mentioned and felt bad for getting upset. I was mad because it had been tested but wasn't working and after 5 hours of trying to figure out what I did wrong it looks like it was the equipment. He explained their testing method and it makes perfect sense how this weird issue could easily get by anyone.

I have a buddy coming over today that owns a couple waterjets and lasers and he is bringing some better testing equipment, but no scope. We just want to try to confirm that it is the PS before Keling so ships another.

I played with it a little more last night and it is VERY strange. If i turn the velocity and acceleration down it wont lag on just one motor, but two motors will stall with anything above short bursts. BUT... I can literally get it to start to fault then come back out on its own with just the right amount of movements/draw.

Plenty of other work to be done. Going to pull the head off today, remove the column, make the cut-out in the column for the extended Y travel and get some swarf protection made for the touch screens front bezel.

[WOTDesigns]

just received an email from usps saying keling printed the shipping label... TODAY. on 4th of july. wow.

not much fun today except tearing the mill apart. everything came off pretty easy and the while thing took less than 2 hours including cleaning everything. the counter weight saved my bacon slowing me to do it alone.




I did pack everything up and take the control to my buddies shop. AC voltage stays good, but the 48v output from the PSU dropped to 40v consistently with only the x running at 40 velocity and .5 acceleration (the highest I could go without stalling. when we hooked up the Z and the X together and ran the Z the voltage was dropping to 26v when it stalled. PSU should be here in a few days. should be good to go.

[WOTDesigns]

swing by a buddies house who has a BP and made clearance in the column for the extended Y travel.

also realized the fan on the PSU never comes on. not much left that I can do before the ball screws and new PSU arrive.

[cornbinder23]

Are you getting the cnc fusion kit?
If its the same as mine you will have to remove a little more material, if you look at cr's conversion you can see a pocket where the end of the ballscrew goes into the bottom of the column, that needs to be the diameter of the washer (stop) at the end of the screw or it will bind.

Looking good so far, since you got it torn down this far, are you going to paint it?
Or are you particular to grizzly green. :stickpoke
I just prepped mine by roughing everything up and removing the bondo fillets
cleaned everything thoroughly and paint with hammerite as it is the same texture as the original paint and the hammerite hide flaws great.
All of my machines will be matching colors as can be seen with my lathe build
not too much extra effort for a great looking final result and the paint is very durable

JTCUSTOMS

[WOTDesigns]

I figured I would wait till I have the ballscrew on and see exactly where it hits and the actual size then remove the table and drill/dremel it to size. hate to make a hole and then have it be off slightly... wasn't sure if the ballscrews put it exactly at the same height or what size it needs to be.

paint.... hadn't even thought about it honestly! think I will. guess I just need to pull the spindle out and throw some making tape on the ways.

thinking about starting another thread for the speed control- I have spent 4 hours looking and every thread I find seems to be filled with hardship and disappointment. I am thinking I would like to tap on here and can't seem to find a decent schematic that includes Mach3 reversing :-/

[WOTDesigns]

I'm still working on the enclosure design, butt I see people using epoxy paint for the base of it. is that "garage floor" epoxy paint?

[cornbinder23]

I figured I would wait till I have the ballscrew on and see exactly where it hits and the actual size then remove the table and drill/dremel it to size. hate to make a hole and then have it be off slightly... wasn't sure if the ballscrews put it exactly at the same height or what size it needs to be. OHHH...... your a thinker!

I'm still working on the enclosure design, butt I see people using epoxy paint for the base of it. is that "garage floor" epoxy paint?

Thats what I used for mine just be careful as there are many companies selling "epoxy" paints but some are not in fact epoxies, rule of thumb is unless it is 2 part it probably isnt epoxy. I cant really recommend a good brand as I dont remember which one I used
:cheers::cheers:

JTCUSTOMS

[WOTDesigns]

after doing a lot of calling and stopping at paint stores I realized that hammerite isn't legal in CA in most parts. VOG is too high... same thing with "good" epoxies. did some research and it seems that the best choice for the enclosure is a marine paint since they are made for submersion in harsh environments for long period of time. more importantly epoxies don't do very well with vertical surfaces since it does "gel" very fast so the bottom will be thicker than the top of the sides. price wise it will be about $20 more than a garage floor kit from lowes that dries incredibly hard and reportedly "can" cause problems with wood due to expansion and contraction and my wood will be subjected to the climate and an open garage door every single day. marine is the best price, but they only have red and black in the smaller sizes currently so I'm going with a competitor that has light grey and got the black rustolium hammer for the mill.

my buddy has a bunch of 1/8 acrylic scrap that are 4'x18.5" so I'll plan the enclosure around those and make the doors and side panels with that in mind.

pulled the head down from the ceiling, stripped it down and ready to sand tomorrow if the PSU doesn't fine in to test first. amazed at how fast the green chinese hammer time filled the sandpaper on a test patch tonight. even with their red primer that crap falls right off.

[WOTDesigns]

anyone ever delt with parkland plastic ploy wall? pretty cheap stuff and seems like the ultimate enclosure lining.

thinking about getting a roll/sheet cutting the shapes of the base of the enclosure on the waterjet then using adhesive and some kind of caulk to seal the seams and corners. just not sure what to use to seal?