After searching through the MACH3 forum, I found the best way to get the Z-tool zeroing to work is to get Gerry's Mach3 2010 Screenset! So I bought it
That will finish one more piece to the big Monster puzzle!
Thanks Gerry!
Widgit
www.widgitmaster.com
It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!
Warning: DIY CNC may cause extreme hair loss due to you pulling your hair out.
Last night I looked at the mess of water lines on the floor, and decided to do something about it! So I made up a manifold to bridge the frame behind the VFD box, then I can put a better water line to the pump! The manifold has 3/8" ID tubing, so I put 1/4" NPT threads in the end blocks. One end near the Delrin block will have the push-connect fittings for the 1/4" ID vinyl tubing, the other end will have the connections for the pump!
So This morning I dropped the parts off at the welder, and told him what needed to be done! They should be finished by this evening, as they are extremely busy!
Widgit
www.widgitmaster.com
It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!
The manifold is back from the welder, and the push-connect fittings are on order from McMaster-Carr! This morning I drilled & tapped the holes for mounting the manifold, and everything looks much neater! The tubing on the pump end of the manifold will all be 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID, as that's the input size of the little radiator!
www.widgitmaster.com
It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!
Widget, Those new aluminum pipes will actually add some additional thermal relief. Really looks good. Glad the new spindle is working so well. Like the temperature sensor and the fact it shuts things down if they start to get warm.. Very Nice
Russ
The spoil boards arrived this morning, but they are 1/16" too wide! So I have to make a setup on the router to cut one edge on all the pieces! Then I ordered a box of 100 flat-head brass screws, to attach the spoil boards to the frame!
www.widgitmaster.com
It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!
I thought you made this monster big enough to hold a full sheet of MDF? What Happened?
Be patient!
Actually the table is bigger than a 4x8 sheet, so I have had 4-pieces cut to cover the entire table and have all the seams parallel to the cross beams.
This creates the 1st sub plate, then after the router's wheel's are removed & replaced with the leveling feet, I'll level the monster! Once it's leveled, then I mill the sub plate flat, and use yellow wood glue to attach a full sheet of MDF in the exact center of the work area. Then I'll surface the top of the 2nd sheet, and it's now ready for use!
As the 2nd sheet shrinks from re-surfacing, it can be replaced with little effort! The Monster has a Z-axis travel of 10", so loosing 1 1/2" is not a problem!
Widgit
www.widgitmaster.com
It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!
This afternoon I decided it's time to remove the six wheels, and put the levelers on the legs. Then I jacked up the far end of the monster until the feet were way off the concrete, and had to place steel blocks under the levelers! Eventually I got all six points level within one line on my Starrett level, and locked the adjusters tight!
I never realized how much pitch was in the garage floor, and the big screw jacks really made the job easy
Widgit
www.widgitmaster.com
It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!
That big jack is really nice and heavy duty. Looking good now your ready to mount those spoil boards.![]()
This morning I setup the monster to mill .05" off the ends of all 4x sheets of MDF, just to make them fit snugly between the long beams. Next I marked all the locations for screw holes, and started the 3 hour process of drilling, through the MDF & steel, then drilling the MDF bigger for the tap to fit in. Then I counter-sunk the holes so the flat head screws were 1/8" below the surface!. To speed up the process, first I used a big center-punch to make a divot at the intersecting lines, then I drilled holes in a scrap block of steel. This helped me align both the drill & tap squarely. The outer beams are 1/4" wall tubing, so I clamped the block in position. Then I climbed up on the table, and put the block between my feet to keep it flat on the table.
The monster is level, and the sub-spoil board is bolted down! Phew!
Widgit
www.widgitmaster.com
It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!
Monster Router Build
Started: June 8, 2013
Today: April 2, 2014
Total Days: 294
Total Weeks: 42
Total Months: 10
So far I have uploaded over 2195 images, and a bunch of videos!
The 2-do-list is shrinking!
a. Get Mach3 to interface with the PMDX-107 spindle speed control.
b. Get Mach3 to interface with the Z-axis tool length plate.
c. Stop banging my head against the wall every time I deal with Mach3!
d. Connect the dust collector in the shed to the garage.
I had no idea what a brain-drain it was to get all the little details working and documented in the router's big folder! The electronics was easier than Mach3!
If I do another build, I'm going to spend the money for a DSP control pendant! That would eliminate the PC, Windows, Mach3, and a ton of headache's!
Widgit
www.widgitmaster.com
It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts!
I know most CNC builders are using Mach3 successfully but after looking into the options I bought the Planet-CNC USB controller for my machine.The controller plus license cost about as much as a Mach3 license and it works quite flawless for me. Has a ton of features that I don't all use and good developer support. Of course the manual is always 12 months behind the latest version.
I don't use a real PC, just an old 10" netbook that hangs off my machine. Only disadvantage is the small screen but still bigger than the display of that offline pendant.
Box Joint and Dovetail CAM software here: WWW.TAILMAKER.NET
I went with deskcnc and am 100% happy with it. Has been running flawlessly on a vista machine with a 12+ year old serial pci card for several years.
The gui is outdated, and it does have some bugs, but for the most part it just works. They are working on a new update that is supposed to be huge.
I can do cad, email, surf the Web, watch YouTube vids etc while the machine is running and it doesn't skip a beat.
Sorry for the Rant!
Hopefully I'll be able to think clearly after my chiropractic appointment this afternoon![]()
Widgit
I always thought it was me that had problems with the drill bits wandering off point, now I know I am not alone.
I used Widgit's scrap steel idea he posted a few months ago about tapping perfectly straight holes and now I have no more problems.
I have learned quite a few good techniques from this thread. Thanks Widgit.
I still do not have your patience Widgit but if I continue to use your ideas my work will be easier and look that much better. :cheers:
Jason
I believe it is this post. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc-wo...ml#post1465658