[hoss2006]

Well, trying the air cylinder at 150 psi isn't going to work, at least not for now.
The compressors gauges actually redline at 250 psi but the relief valve and pressure gauge won't let it go over 120.
Think I'll play it safe and not try bypassing it.
Just have to get around to making a booster.
I made the cylinder pretty stout, I'm sure it could handle 200-300 easily.
That'll have to wait, the mill is torn apart while I work on oiling the saddle and ballnuts.
Also plan to powder coat the cnc parts while they are off, got some nice looking Gun Metal Gray Metallic powder coming.
The extra cups I got from Summit fit the craftsman perfectly by the way, thanks journey man.
Hoss

[Maglin]

Hoss,
You can change the regulator shutoff on your compressor. Take the cover off the on/off switch and their is a large bolt with a spring and nut on it. Just tighten it down about one to two turns at a time and turn it on and pull the saftey air valve to let out a good amount of air and check it a few times to see where it shuts off. Really anything past 150 and the rotary compressor will have a very hard time building pressure. I kept mine at 150 for a few years and just lowered it down to 135 this year. I got tired of hearing it run all the damn time.

[duzallcnc]

Hi Hoss,

I picked up a couple of 3" bore extruded air cylnders (Fabco I think) on Ebay for around 25.00 ea. They look like the will be easy to modify if anyone is interested. Where I am I couldn't buy the raw materials for what I paid for these.

[mrcodewiz]

Hi Hoss,

I picked up a couple of 3" bore extruded air cylnders (Fabco I think) on Ebay for around 25.00 ea. They look like the will be easy to modify if anyone is interested. Where I am I couldn't buy the raw materials for what I paid for these.

do they have any more?

[ncdeftones]

So I was testing my stock controller board and the treadmill motor last night and I found that my card will put out 136-140 volts DC. The treadmill motor is rated at 130 volts so it wasn't a problem, but anyone thinking of doing the cheap RPM upgrade using the pot better be careful with their stock motors. On mine I found the stock setting was around 65 volts (even though the motor is rated at 90). I'm sure there may be more than 1 version of these cards, so make sure you check your voltage and don't get too greedy.

[ncdeftones]

It's nice to see proof of concept with the premade pulleys, sdp/si changed from the solid pulleys I originally designed to those split type, solid centers would be preferred.
Check econobelt.com.
A single pulley design will get you some higher rpm but you'll lose torque
trying to run at lower rpms.
X3 users have tried the pulley swap to boost rpm, they can get it whipping fine for little cutters
but found it bogged down trying to run facemills with that setup.
Like I said on the website, a lathe is recommended for this project.
Hoss

Yes a Lathe is a must. I put off buying one because of money. I spent $430 after the 20% coupon and paid no freight because I was able to walk right in Harbor Freight and pick it up. I can't do much more than pulley's and small stuff, but I got to say I like this little mini-lathe and there's still plenty I can use it for. I started making the belt drive spindle sleeve and pretty much did it all in one evening and it's the first time I've even even touched a lathe.

I have a Little Machine Shop rotatory table and all the electronics to make a 4th axis, but I haven't got it going because I've been so busy and had to deal with motor issues. Seeing that it's going to cost about $80 for 4 of these pre-made pulleys sure lights the fire under my tail to get that working.

I also have a R8 lathe chuck that can be used on the mill, but I haven't touched it yet because I never made a tool post. I bought a Little Machine Shop quick change post for the mini-lathe (not cheap but definitely worth it), so I'll probably use it to make a usable tool post for the mill. Then I'll kinda have a CNC lathe as well.

Too many projects, too little time. I need to start using the mill to make a little side money.

[Fastest1]

Hoss, I finally ordered a G0704 today. I have been watching your threads for quite a while now on many items. I always enjoy your builds and solutions. I might have missed it somewhere in the threads (I dont know how as I have read it daily since the beginning). Originally you were using the MAD (manually actuated drawbar) system, correct? I was playing around with that on my RF30 and it works mechanically just fine, was there a reason to abandon the idea? I do think your cylinder is very nice and quiet in its operation but question my need for an automated change, simply moving the quill handle would be ok with me using the TTS holders. Did I miss something? Is there a negative? Or are you just preparing for the next automatic tool changer?

[hoss2006]

Hoss, I finally ordered a G0704 today. I have been watching your threads for quite a while now on many items. I always enjoy your builds and solutions. I might have missed it somewhere in the threads (I dont know how as I have read it daily since the beginning). Originally you were using the MAD (manually actuated drawbar) system, correct? I was playing around with that on my RF30 and it works mechanically just fine, was there a reason to abandon the idea? I do think your cylinder is very nice and quiet in its operation but question my need for an automated change, simply moving the quill handle would be ok with me using the TTS holders. Did I miss something? Is there a negative? Or are you just preparing for the next automatic tool changer?

Welcome to the club!
The MAD works great for manual changes as long as you got the muscle
but the air cylinder makes it easier and necessary for an ATC.
Besides, it's can put out a LOT more force than can be done by hand and the floating design puts no strain on the spindle.
I'll be making an air amplifier down the road here in a bit so I could see getting 6000 lbs of force out of this cylinder
if I upgrade the air lines and fittings.
The poly tubing is rated for 200 psi but nylon is good for 350.
I could cut it down to one stage and get the same I'm getting now.
2 stage will probably be the ticket.
2500 lbs pull on the collet is all that's realistically needed for max TTS usage.
Hoss

[Fastest1]

I guessed it had something to do with a toolchanger. Do you really need that kind of clamping power on the TTS? Seems like you were doing some deep cuts when you were running the MAD?

[hoss2006]

I guessed it had something to do with a toolchanger. Do you really need that kind of clamping power on the TTS? Seems like you were doing some deep cuts when you were running the MAD?

It'll do fine for 1/2 inch an under tools but the goal will be ALL tools.
Plus I have some tools I want to make for the lathe attachment and they'll need extra grippiness.
Hoss

[pete from TN]

EXTRA GRIPPINESS!!

[mrcodewiz]

I tried searching around a bit but couldn't come up with anything definitive. What have people determined the best vise to be? I am debating between the Glacern 4", Glacern 5", the Shars 5", or one of these:

"4 ANG-LOCK VISE FOR CNC/BRIDGEPORT MILLING MACHINE-NEW - eBay (item 160531849803 end time Mar-14-11 07:44:07 PDT)

The shars 5" seems like a really good deal and Hoss' seemed to be good quality but I think the auction showed the specs at .002" or something? With my luck, that is the one I would get.

[rwskinner]

I bought two from Enco while they were on sale, a 5" and a 6" and both end up being pretty good vises. Enco, Shars, and some of the others can be hit and miss sometimes. I guess I got lucky like Hoss did.

[hoss2006]

I tried searching around a bit but couldn't come up with anything definitive. What have people determined the best vise to be? I am debating between the Glacern 4", Glacern 5", the Shars 5", or one of these:

"4 ANG-LOCK VISE FOR CNC/BRIDGEPORT MILLING MACHINE-NEW - eBay (item 160531849803 end time Mar-14-11 07:44:07 PDT)

The shars 5" seems like a really good deal and Hoss' seemed to be good quality but I think the auction showed the specs at .002" or something? With my luck, that is the one I would get.

The glacern is your best bet to guarantee a good vice since it's specs are better,
like rw said it's a crap shoot with the chinese stuff, mine was great as far as the bed but the back jaw was off .001,
better than the specs but not as good as the glacern.
How lucky are you?
Hoss

[gauthib12]

Hey Hoss,

Did you have to add more threads at the top of the spindle for the pinch collar?

Thanks

[hoss2006]

Hey Hoss,

Did you have to add more threads at the top of the spindle for the pinch collar?

Thanks

not sure what you are asking.

[mwood3]

Hoss,

I know we talked about this a while back but have you thought of any ideas for a little bit more Y axis travel?

I guess the most obvious is to grind out he saddle where the y axis nut hits near the front of the machine...just wondering the "safe limit"?

I have a ton of projects that need about 9 full inches of Y travel to complete...

[hoss2006]

It'll be done someday and 9 is the max that I would attempt.
The Y already overtravels the front by an inch so I would only open the slot to go another 1/2 inch in front,
the rear of the slot can be opened up 1 1/2 inch to over travel the same to the rear.
A 1 1/2 inch spacer is then needed between the base and column.
To make use of the travel the head will need a 2 inch spacer.
Not really difficult to do, you just have to want to.
Just make sure the spacers are parallel.
I don't need the travel so I don't have a reason yet to do it, besides when I do, it will be to
add 5th axis capabilities to the head.
I do already have the stock and longer bolts though.
Hoss

[duzallcnc]

Hi Hoss,

What method are you considering to drive the rotation of the spindle box ? I am looking to make the spindle box rotate on a horizontal machine that I am converting to a vertical with a rf45 spindlebox. I was thinking about a worm gear around 8" dia with 2 pinions which would be an attempt at minimum backlash. I am going to use the #50 spindle and bearings as the rotational shaft.

Thanks
Sean

[gauthib12]

sorry Hoss here is a pic, did you need to add more threads to the top?