[dertsap]

the ebay guy is selling them again

KB/KBIC DC Motor Control Horsepower/HP Resistor #9841 | eBay

[Al_The_Man]

the ebay guy is selling them again

According to his listing he won't ship to Canada?
Al.

[dertsap]

weird , thats where i got mine , maybe he decided he didn't profit enough from shipping to ship it here

[MrWild]

the ebay guy is selling them again

KB/KBIC DC Motor Control Horsepower/HP Resistor #9841 | eBay

Thanks, got it ordered. Ordered two they were so cheap.

[MrWild]

Would a momentary ON switch or circuit for a timed period of brake work to stop the motor and reset the drive?

[dertsap]

Hey Al
do you know of any suppliers for the kb electric stuff .

I need a 1 hp resistor and I can get them cheap from the states for roughly $1 each , unfortunately they all ship ups , so with order processing fees along with my companies $35 flat rate brokerage fee(ups generosity) , then I'm looking at roughly fifty bucks for a 1 dollar item .
It's a bit of a joke and I'll pay it if I have to but there's got to be a better alternative I can deal with here in Canada

[Vogavt]

Sticker says:

PERMANENT MAGNET DC MOTOR 2.25 HP
N1CPM-130T CW ROTATION

TREADMILL DUTTY: 2.25 130VDC
18 AMPS FF1.0 AOM

CONTINUOUS DUTTY: 1.3 HP 95 VDC
ENCL: OPEN EXTERNAL FAN

PART# G-176006


So I found the CD rating on the sticker where I'd missed it before. Wonder why it's spelled DUTTY instead of DUTY. (Weird).

My stock motor says 4/5HP, but I doubt that's continuous either.

However, it does say REVERSIBLE, whereas the TM says CW Rotation; so I suspect it's not going to work. I'm using the belt drive mod, so is there a simple fix for this?

Okay, now I have another question. I've designed my mount for this particular motor and have started to do a little more research. Should I put the flywheel back on?

I read this somewhere: The motor needs it to maintain an steady constant speed, moreso than without one. when the motor reaches speed the controller will dial back a bit and unless there is something to keep momentum, the motor will slow down some, then the controller plays catch-up so you get that rise/fall speed effect.

I know you can make adjustments to the IR setting that will minimize the bouncing back and forth in rpm.

Another matter in the not too distant future is upgrading to a new controller board. I don't know whether to use a PWM or an SCR type. Any advice would be appreciated.

[Al_The_Man]

Hey Al
do you know of any suppliers for the kb electric stuff .

I need a 1 hp resistor and I can get them cheap from the states for roughly $1 each , unfortunately they all ship ups , so with order processing fees along with my companies $35 flat rate brokerage fee(ups generosity) , then I'm looking at roughly fifty bucks for a 1 dollar item .
It's a bit of a joke and I'll pay it if I have to but there's got to be a better alternative I can deal with here in Canada

I get mine from the local Baldor rep.
You should have one near you?

Another matter in the not too distant future is upgrading to a new controller board. I don't know whether to use a PWM or an SCR type. Any advice would be appreciated.

PWM will supply a higher voltage and also smoother at low RPM, you should get good results with the flywheel off?

Al.

[Vogavt]

.... you should get good results with the flywheel off?

Al.

Not sure I understand whether this is a question or a statement... sorry.

[Al_The_Man]

Normally you should not require the flywheel in place, I have always removed them if fitted.
Al.

[Vogavt]

That's good. This will allow me to fit that end with one of these or these.

I'd also considered some type of water jacket for cooling but for now it's definitely going to have to have a fan.

[dertsap]

I get mine from the local Baldor rep.
You should have one near you?

oh crap , if i was paying attention then I would have remembered you mentioning that baldor is a relabeled kb .
I had a friend help me out and is sending one up thru post

[Vogavt]

Okay, so I nabbed two KBLC-19M's off eBay. Connect it and turned it on, then the Armature Fuse blew immediately.

Here's how I've got it connected:

Original Sieg controller - P1 going to KBLC-19M P1
Original Sieg controller - P2 (not used since going through spindle control)
Original Sieg controller - P3 going to KBLC-19M P3
Original Sieg controller - DC1 going to KBLC-19M A-
Original Sieg controller - DC2 going to KBLC-19M A+
Original Sieg controller - AC3 going to KBLC-19M L2
Original Sieg controller - AC4 going to KBLC-19M L1
Original Sieg controller - 5 (not used)
Original Sieg controller - 6 (not used but was jumpered to 7)
Original Sieg controller - 5 (not used but was jumpered to 6)

I believe I've gotten it connected correctly from comparing to the pic in Harrisson's information that's now posted on szabaga's site.

Since I was intending to use this on my treadmill motor, I had already replaced the resistor for it according to its specs, but I still have the original X2 motor attached. Also, from looking at the szabaga information I see that it shows the board is grounded, however I didn't have a ground wire on the original Sieg board either.

Just trying to give a much information as possible.

Leery at the moment to move forward.

Any advice would be appreciated.

I reconnected my ICON MC-60 and everything appears to be working as before. Whew! I'm not doing anything else until some of you have had a chance to look at the above information.

One more thing. The fuse was rated at 7.5 amps. I bought some 15 amp fuses, but haven't swapped them.

[dertsap]

One more thing. The fuse was rated at 7.5 amps. I bought some 15 amp fuses, but haven't swapped them.

most of those treadmill motors are more than 7.5 amp so I'd assume that you'll need resistors that match your motors amperage

[Vogavt]

Will continue the information regarding the driver board (KBLC-19M) here, instead of in this post which was originally about the spindle motor and not the driver board. Sorry for the off topic posts in the previous posts.

[dertsap]

Sorry for the off topic posts in the previous posts.

no worries
The whole thread went into a different direction pretty quickly .

the point of the thread was to find alternatives to what is a weak set up , so far the board makes a huge difference , and i think crossing over to the treadmill motor will finish it off . Now i just need to set aside the time to throw a large sheet of 3/8 aluminum onto my router table and cut out the new spindle mount brackets , along with a bunch more upgrade parts for the stepper brackets , etc etc . I tend to change plans and parts as often as i change underwear ( well , maybe a bit less )

[Vogavt]

I tend to change plans and parts as often as i change underwear ( well , maybe a bit less )

Well, it is a hobby for me after all, but I'm trying to prototype a few things and once the kinks get worked out I would need a smoother running spindle. The ICON-MC60 has been okay, but not great. It seems to undulate in its RPM. Not sure what's causing it. I've now got the recommended KBLC-19M and and I'm trying to get it working. Once I do I hope that the spindle speed settles out a lot.

Vogavt

[nateman_doo]

I just replaced the motor brushes in my motor, and cleaned the contacts. Peaked around EIGHT THOUSAND RPM's at max. SICK! Only problem is on lower speeds the motor tends to bounce. like reving up, and down, and and down. I am guessing its a torque compensation, but I have no idea how to adjust for it.

[dertsap]

If I recall correctly , tweaking the cl will fix the up and down rev's .
High rpm's are brutal on the brushes . Mine is now set to 5700 rpm at the tool , and it'll run at that all day with no problems . I haven't had a single brush issues or have had the contacts getting filthy since knock the rpm back and I've put a lot of hours on the mill

[nateman_doo]

I actually took it apart and adjusted all the dials and got it normal again.