[buddydog]

Now that I have found this schematic for the RAMPS 1.4, and had a little bit of time looking it over everything makes more sense. I think everybody interested in this project should take a look at it, here is the link:
http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/f...4schematic.png

Thank you for that Rolf.
It would be nice if the abbreviations were not abbreviated. Maybe some one who doesn't have a digital background could make sense of it. The switches and drivers are very easy to follow but I think the chip might be hard for 99% of the lurkers. I know they need a two year degree before understanding would come. I just wish there were a way.

[ELaser]

Elaser has a video of what I think is a high power laser cutting 1" acrylic and it clearly shows that any CO2 "focused" laser can't make straight cuts as thickness increases because the beam is tapered to and past the focal point of the lens. It's v shaped going in and inverted v shaped going out of the back side. Good luck!

ooh, it's not high powered, Reci tube rated at 100 watts nominal and 131 watts peak, BUT, USA optics and properly chilled and a good quality driver psu, which makes a huge difference.

cutting the 1" acrylic takes 48 / 50 watts

I cut 10 mm acrylic at 2.5 mm sec and 30 watts and get basically as good an edge as you can get with a laser, almost optically perfect with almost no striations, you have to look to see the flaws.

Cutting wood is all about air assist, and "wide open" air assist with an aquarium type pump ain't air assist, change NOTHING and attempt the same cut again but with pressure regulated shop air at 20/25 psi and it is as different as chalk and cheese.

Must do a post about air assist.

Think the centre oxy nozzle in a gas axe, it's the high pressure oxy in the centre nozzle that does the cutting, the outer ring are just for the torch flame.

[Retroplayer]

Thank you for that Rolf.
It would be nice if the abbreviations were not abbreviated. Maybe some one who doesn't have a digital background could make sense of it. The switches and drivers are very easy to follow but I think the chip might be hard for 99% of the lurkers. I know they need a two year degree before understanding would come. I just wish there were a way.

The schematic would be huge without abbreviations! Probably more confusing, actually. What abbreviations did you need help with, Buddy? There is a ton of stuff on there because it is designed for a 3D printer, but really only need to be concerned about the X and Y stepper outputs, a laser on signal and a laser power PWM signal.

People might find this board layout helpful as well: File:Arduinomega1-4connectors.png - RepRapWiki

[buddydog]

ooh, it's not high powered, Reci tube rated at 100 watts nominal and 131 watts peak, BUT, USA optics and properly chilled and a good quality driver psu, which makes a huge difference.

cutting the 1" acrylic takes 48 / 50 watts

I cut 10 mm acrylic at 2.5 mm sec and 30 watts and get basically as good an edge as you can get with a laser, almost optically perfect with almost no striations, you have to look to see the flaws.

Cutting wood is all about air assist, and "wide open" air assist with an aquarium type pump ain't air assist, change NOTHING and attempt the same cut again but with pressure regulated shop air at 20/25 psi and it is as different as chalk and cheese.

Must do a post about air assist.

Think the centre oxy nozzle in a gas axe, it's the high pressure oxy in the centre nozzle that does the cutting, the outer ring are just for the torch flame.

I'll have to try shop air. I use a "puffing" airbrush pump and I know it's a night and day difference. Only once in a while do I see a flame and it blows right out. I'd love to have a real 48 watts on tap! I'd even settle for the hyped up 40! An article on air assist would be a good keeper. Doesn't longer focal length mean straighter sides and maybe deeper cuts?

[buddydog]

The schematic would be huge without abbreviations! Probably more confusing, actually. What abbreviations did you need help with, Buddy? There is a ton of stuff on there because it is designed for a 3D printer, but really only need to be concerned about the X and Y stepper outputs, a laser on signal and a laser power PWM signal.

People might find this board layout helpful as well: File:Arduinomega1-4connectors.png - RepRapWiki

I'll have to look at the link. I don't need any explaination on that, I was thinking of the generic modern high school grad that we might like to bring into the fold. I got my arduino last night!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fCxzA9_kg6s

Watched that and got a light to change state but then it didn't work right so I have something wrong. Got family business today and a little more aluminum to destroy so maybe get back to it tonight. I didn't download a new program but just erased the "sketch" from the program Retro had us download, then typed in what was in the tutorial. At least it seemed to attach to the computer. Fun stuff.

[ELaser]

I'll have to try shop air. I use a "puffing" airbrush pump and I know it's a night and day difference. Only once in a while do I see a flame and it blows right out. I'd love to have a real 48 watts on tap! I'd even settle for the hyped up 40! An article on air assist would be a good keeper. Doesn't longer focal length mean straighter sides and maybe deeper cuts?

Already done

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/genera...ir-assist.html

[buddydog]

Already done

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/genera...ir-assist.html

Thank you and a good article and really neat to see wood cut so nicely.

[emccarron72]

Has anyone tried this eBay item:

Usbcnc 3 Axis Stepper Motor USB Driver Board Controller Laser Board for CNC E | eBay

Yes. I bought one to play with. It's a GRBL based 3 axis stepper driver running on an Arduino Nano. It throws in a transistor or fet switched output for a laser driver. I haven't reverse engineered all the inputs yet (example, what the heck is "weak") but it spins the steppers...

Instructions/specs were non-existent with the board, all i got was a board and a cable. Nice enough for the price point. I'll find a use for it eventually.

[Retroplayer]

I'm here guys, just inundated with work at the moment. When you guys are ready to go, I will be here to help!

[buddydog]

Got my arduino mega,got it running, followed a YouTube basic tutorial and made some led toggle when I switched a pin. Good times!

[Retroplayer]

Got my arduino mega,got it running, followed a YouTube basic tutorial and made some led toggle when I switched a pin. Good times!

Well, sounds like you got that part down. Now you just need to load the the laser cutter firmware and get it wired up

[buddydog]

I think I'm going to play with the different things it can do for now. After you get yours working successfully I'll change mine out. I need to learn Inkscape also.

[Retroplayer]

I think I'm going to play with the different things it can do for now. After you get yours working successfully I'll change mine out. I need to learn Inkscape also.

Fair enough, proof is in the pudding! But it may be awhile. My upgrades are going far beyond just a controller upgrade. I just got all the pieces (I think) to redo the mechanical stage. I need to get that all done and installed before hooking up the electronics in mine. I also need to do some tests of the water cooling system and most likely some tweaks along the way with that.

I am planning to get some more done and a post up tomorrow.

[buddydog]

I'm not looking for proof Retro, I trust you, I'm just chicken to go first! I like to keep the return water where I can see it dribbling into the bucket, sooo I had to make sure the bucket was even with the machine to prevent a bubble in the tube when it was off.

Haven't messed with the controller for a couple of days. Been making good progress on the flaps and ailerons. I think they must be the hardest part of the build.

[Retroplayer]

I'm not looking for proof Retro, I trust you, I'm just chicken to go first! I like to keep the return water where I can see it dribbling into the bucket, sooo I had to make sure the bucket was even with the machine to prevent a bubble in the tube when it was off.

Haven't messed with the controller for a couple of days. Been making good progress on the flaps and ailerons. I think they must be the hardest part of the build.

If I was building a plane, that would take precedence, too.

I just make the electronics that end up in planes.

[buddydog]

If I was building a plane, that would take precedence, too.

I just make the electronics that end up in planes.

Let's see.. This is actually a piper clone but I can do pretty much anything I want. Could I have a ulterior motive with the arduino? Is it possible I see a 2 axis autopilot in my future? I wonder? Hee Hee.

[Retroplayer]

Let's see.. This is actually a piper clone but I can do pretty much anything I want. Could I have a ulterior motive with the arduino? Is it possible I see a 2 axis autopilot in my future? I wonder? Hee Hee.

You are actually building a human sized plane or are you talking R/C? I assumed you were talking full sized since you are talking about rivets.

[buddydog]

You are actually building a human sized plane or are you talking R/C? I assumed you were talking full sized since you are talking about rivets.

Full size but as light as possible. Something along these lines:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vyIASoN9I7w

That is a Carbon cub by Cubcrafters. If I had the bucks.. Anyway a similar clone type aircraft all based on the original Piper Supercub. I am old enough I have transitioned to sport pilot license that has no medical. 10years of sport pilot has proven there is no statistical difference in safety so they are thinking of doing away with the third class altogether. Doctors are fighting it tooth and nail but they have nothing in the way of statistics. Anyway the original Piper can not be flown sport pilot but you can build a clone with completely interchangable parts and it can be set at sport pilot weight (1320#) max takeoff. I still want as light as possible so it doesn't matter to me as much as some but if the third goes away it will mean a second gas tank to double the fuel load.

[Retroplayer]

Getting my pilot's license is on my bucket-list. Prefer helicopters, but that is expensive as h#ll

[buddydog]

Getting my pilot's license is on my bucket-list. Prefer helicopters, but that is expensive as h#ll

I've been flying off and on since the 70's. I had a 172 for a few years and then got into sailing for about 20 years. Got out of that and took up flying ultralights. I have a Quicksilver Sprint I have been flying for a few years and it opened my eyes to performance aircraft but I'm tired of not being able to fly in any wind and staying 20 miles for the airport.. When I looked around for something with similar performance the supercub turned up.