[kwackers]

How do you connect the display trim pot? Steve PCB2 shows 4 holes ( 3 holes negative and one to pin 3 on display). Does one outer leg of the trim pot go to pin 3 and the middle and other outer to negative?



many thanks, Mike

Sorry - I'm not getting notification of responses to this thread. (again)

the reason there are 4 holes is to allow two common sizes of presets to be fitted.

Essentially what you say is correct, the preset allows pin 3 on the display to be routed to ground - the setting of the preset changing the resistance and hence the contrast.
If you don't want to fit a preset then you could simply experiment with different values of resistor between pin 3 and gnd until you find one you're happy with.

(You can even connect pin 3 direct to ground, the display will be slightly dark but probably not too dark...)

[Marty_Escarcega]

Anyone found a good source for a case that will hold both the keyboard and display? Saw one that was T shaped in a previous message that looked pretty cool. Be nice to find a premade case to hold them and the PCB.

I think I found a case will report back with what I find....
TIA
Marty
Mesa, AZ

[Al_The_Man]

BUD make some hand help operator units.
http://www.budind.com/
Al.

[Marty_Escarcega]

BUD make some hand help operator units.
http://www.budind.com/
Al.

Yup, found them. Found a source for the pendant style. Am looking into it. Now to find a membrane keypad that I can customize the buttons....

Marty

[Marty_Escarcega]

Does anyone have the artwork SCALED properly and ready to go. Having trouble scaling it down to match the 40 pin dip. Kwackers, can you share the file from the program you used to create the PCB design?

Still searching for keypad alternatives....

TIA
Marty

[kwackers]

Does anyone have the artwork SCALED properly and ready to go. Having trouble scaling it down to match the 40 pin dip. Kwackers, can you share the file from the program you used to create the PCB design?

Still searching for keypad alternatives....

TIA
Marty

Hi Marty,
Does Rotary PCB.pdf in the .zip in this post not scale correctly?

Failing that I used Proteus from here the version I used is quite old, so don't know if their demo software will load and print it ok.

Regards
Steve.

[dnaman]

Does anyone have the artwork SCALED properly and ready to go. Having trouble scaling it down to match the 40 pin dip.

I have a bmp of PCB 2.0 which is printing just fine for me. A lot depends on the graphics program you're using. I presume you've checked throughout the printing chain (graphics program, printer setup etc) that you are set to print at 100% once you've established the scale in the graphics program?

In any event, I could attach the file it to a personal email if you wish (506 KB).

I wish my problems were as simple as that. I've just finished my second attempt at producing the PCb by the toner-transfer method. No more successful than the previous attempt and no more successful than the last time I tried to do this (about 5 years ago) ... I didn't bother trying to etch the thing.

That previous time, I switched to the photographic method and finally produced a usable board - I guess I'll have to do the same thing this time. Come to that, it's not really any more trouble although a bit more expensive.

[Dr. Rob]

This is brilliant; what a wonderful toy.

I do have one area of uncertainty, which seems to not have been covered entirely...

This device is capable of both indexing and continuous drive. But can it do both simultaneously?

What I'd like to do, is synchronize the spindle of a manual vertical mill, and the rotary table.... at a certain, predecided and exact ratio. Say the mill spindle does one rev. I'd like the rotary table to do EXACTLY one 1/20th rev for example, whilst driving continuously. Ad infinitum.

I imagine this has a few things to do with an encoder on the mill spindle and some program parameters.

More astute readers may quickly realize what I'm getting at: Gear hobbing.

I've long been inspired by the John Stevenson Electronic Gear Hobber*, but having found this device and thread makes the previous device seem like black-and-white TV in a technicolor world...

TIA for any input!

Doc

* Discussed a number of times here and at a number of other forums, but always without any clear conclusion.

(and PS, somewhat unrelated: Why the heck does this forum display posts in chronologically reverse order? IE this new last post is on page 1, at the top. The first post of this thread is on page somethingteen at the bottom. Is it just me, or do we like it that way here?)
.

[dnaman]

(and PS, somewhat unrelated: Why the heck does this forum display posts in chronologically reverse order? IE this new last post is on page 1, at the top. The first post of this thread is on page somethingteen at the bottom. Is it just me, or de we like it that way here?)
.

Click on "User CP" (up at the top) then "Edit Options" and you can change the message display to whatever works for you.

[Dr. Rob]

(thanks dnaman-- did the user cp and dropdowns and faqs already; must've just missed it the first time)

Anyway, back on topic...

[Marty_Escarcega]

Hi Marty,
Does Rotary PCB.pdf in the .zip in this post not scale correctly?

Failing that I used Proteus from here the version I used is quite old, so don't know if their demo software will load and print it ok.

Regards
Steve.

Hi Steve, no, I opened it up in Adobe Acrobat 9.3 and no its too small.
Would appreciate the output file out of Proteus or if someone else has the file that worked for them, please do email it to me. We spent almost 2 hours scaling up and down and we needed a half percent, no software we had would do it.
TIA
Marty
escarcegaATcoxDOTnet

[Marty_Escarcega]

I have a bmp of PCB 2.0 which is printing just fine for me. A lot depends on the graphics program you're using. I presume you've checked throughout the printing chain (graphics program, printer setup etc) that you are set to print at 100% once you've established the scale in the graphics program?

In any event, I could attach the file it to a personal email if you wish (506 KB).

I wish my problems were as simple as that. I've just finished my second attempt at producing the PCb by the toner-transfer method. No more successful than the previous attempt and no more successful than the last time I tried to do this (about 5 years ago) ... I didn't bother trying to etch the thing.

That previous time, I switched to the photographic method and finally produced a usable board - I guess I'll have to do the same thing this time. Come to that, it's not really any more trouble although a bit more expensive.

Please do send the .bmp file that worked for you. The one in the file would not work for me, not to scale. Happy to use Proteus, but need the raw output file created by Proteus. I suspect a conversion might be causing some trouble?

My buddy can do the photo resist method and has it down to a science. We just need a good scaled drawing to work with.

Marty
escarcegaATcoxDOTnet

[kwackers]

I've attached the Proteus layout file.

Hopefully you should be able to load this into Proteus.

Regards
Steve.

[kwackers]

This is brilliant; what a wonderful toy.

I do have one area of uncertainty, which seems to not have been covered entirely...

This device is capable of both indexing and continuous drive. But can it do both simultaneously?

What I'd like to do, is synchronize the spindle of a manual vertical mill, and the rotary table.... at a certain, predecided and exact ratio. Say the mill spindle does one rev. I'd like the rotary table to do EXACTLY one 1/20th rev for example, whilst driving continuously. Ad infinitum.

I imagine this has a few things to do with an encoder on the mill spindle and some program parameters.

Hi, as it stands you can't do that with the device. I did consider adding screw cutting and gear hobbing using a spindle input but in the end decided it muddies the water on what was intended to be a easy to use divider.

I have been giving a more sophisticated controller some thought though. I'm toying with the idea of buying a CNC mill but don't really like the idea of using a full on computer and Mach 3 in my work shop - I like small self contained boxes...
So I'm thinking multiple axis with the ability to read G-codes probably from a memory card and a set of simple 'everyday' tasks, like surfacing, pockets, chain & co-ordinate drilling, screw cutting, hobbing etc.
At the moment it's a just a set of ideas - the main issues I'm having is how to make the user interface work nicely without just being a mish mash.

If I get around to starting it I'll create another thread ;-)

[Dr. Rob]

Okay-- don't feel bad about that! You've succeeded very well in your original endeavour! I look forward to trying that, and solving the hobbing thing another day. Or vice versa.

Thanks again.

.

[Marty_Escarcega]

Steve, in the parts list
I assume R5, R8, R9 are 47k? Wattage not critical?
Also, can I have an example part number of the beeper?
Also, can't find BC337 at Allied Electronics. Is there a more common part number for it or a suitable alternative?

I use Alliedelec.com for parts, I get a bit of a price break. Once I locate all the parts and build mine, I will post a source for all the parts. I have found a keypad and suitable case.

I have a nice 31VDC 1.5a AC adapter power supply I was hoping to use, I assume that would be a bit much?

I was looking at this stepper driver on ebay, but it needs its own 5VDC source:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=260533431167

Thoughts/comments appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
Marty

[kwackers]

Steve, in the parts list
I assume R5, R8, R9 are 47k? Wattage not critical?
Also, can I have an example part number of the beeper?
Also, can't find BC337 at Allied Electronics. Is there a more common part number for it or a suitable alternative?

I use Alliedelec.com for parts, I get a bit of a price break. Once I locate all the parts and build mine, I will post a source for all the parts. I have found a keypad and suitable case.

I have a nice 31VDC 1.5a AC adapter power supply I was hoping to use, I assume that would be a bit much?

I was looking at this stepper driver on ebay, but it needs its own 5VDC source:http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=260533431167

Thoughts/comments appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
Marty

Hi Marty,

The resistors are 4k7 (i.e 4.7k) not 47k. 1/4w is fine for all the resistors (although the backlight resistor (82 ohm) might be better 1/2w).

There is 5v available for a driver at the power socket (if you're using my pcb). If you do your own pcb then you can take 5v from the 5v rail.
Bear in mind the power dissipated in the 5v regulator will go up so you may want to consider a small heatsink (check it doesn't get too hot).

31v is getting a little high for the 7805, also the higher the voltage dropped the more power dissipated and so the larger the heatsink.

What may be worth considering is an offboard regulator to drop the voltage down to somewhere between 8 and 24v before supplying it to the divider.

The BC337's are just general purpose NPN transistors, any general purpose NPN should do. The transistor that drives the beeper may need to handle 100mA to be on the safe side (although I've never actually measured how much current is drawn).

The sounders I used to 'borrow' off old motherboards. When I ran out I got a bag of them from Sure Electronics (eBay).
Basically they're just passive sounders. You could even use a high impedance speaker or one side of a pair of headphones...
Last time I looked most suppliers had a large range of suitable items. (I'm at work now so can't look ;-)

Hope this helps
Steve.

[dnaman]

After a few failures using the toner transfer method I finally tried one using the photo method and got a truly excellent PCB first time.

Now I have to drill it. What's the best drill size(s) to use?

[Marty_Escarcega]

Hi Marty,

The resistors are 4k7 (i.e 4.7k) not 47k. 1/4w is fine for all the resistors (although the backlight resistor (82 ohm) might be better 1/2w).

Steve.

Thanks for clarifying Steve. I don't remember seeing the 82 ohm resistor on the parts list and can't remember seeing a spot on the PC board for it (but I'm at work now and can't look)

[justforfun]

I have been collecting parts and I am now ready to start assembly.

I'd like for everyone to look at my board and let me know if I used the correct layout.



Here is a link to a larger image,

http://s226.photobucket.com/albums/d...t=DSC_3515.jpg

Roy
Elkhart, IN USA