[rock4xfab]

You hit the nail on the head. Not showing on that laser locator is a sticker saying "Dynatorch"! It slips right onto the torch and works great. The laser does make locating 0,0 (x&y) a lot easier. I did have problems with it. Sent it in for repair when one leg quit working. They repaired and returned N/C. Had it in use over a year and the same leg quit working. Sent it back in and they replaced both lasers. The originals just would not hold up to the use. I did like the old lasers better - they had a thinner line - but even a heavier line with the crosshairs is a lot better than the the Mark 1A2 human eyeball. I did not price the one from Torchmate but I imagine it is comparable to the Dynatorcdh model. The Dyna has an on/off toggle switch mounted on the unit.

Great Thanks, then I guess I will just get the Dynatorch unit.. One more question now that I think of it my Torch is the SL100 Mechanical for my Thermal Dynamics plasma, and it is 1.375 Diameter. I would hate to purchase it and find it did not fit the Torch.

[plain ol Bill]

My Hypertherm machine torch is also 1.375 so it will slide over your torch too. The laser comes w/ long wiring and a wall wart for power.

[rock4xfab]

Thank you very much.... Guess I know where my next $160 is going LOL.

[Torchhead]

I'm confused. Why do you need visible crosshairs if you know where the torch is from Table 0,0 ? ( I know the answer but I have to rag you guys!(wedge))

TOM caudle
www.CandCNC.com

[rock4xfab]

I'm confused. Why do you need visible crosshairs if you know where the torch is from Table 0,0 ? ( I know the answer but I have to rag you guys!(wedge))

TOM caudle
www.CandCNC.com

COOL FACTOR hehehe actualy I wanted to use them for staging the material in a longer then my table will handle capacity. Or I will build a tab and the first cut will be a notch that I can move to lock into that tab.

[plain ol Bill]

I've gotten used to throwing pieces on the table then measuring off the sides of the table to square it up with the table. Then I turn on the laser run the torch down to the bottom corner (or wherever I want 0,0 to be) then set my DRO's for X & Y. I don't actually use table 0,0 except when I want to check my gantry for squareness.

[ajclay]

Just to keep things on the ground, I've made line up tools that cost ...... nothing. Just time. No batteries, wall warts, wires, optics... Just saying... for me I like simple. So often I get cought up in all the high tech stuff "cool things", but sooner or later I go back to basics when they brake. AJ

[sarojkumar]

this sarojkumar we required the plazmz torch hight control for hust controller

[millman52]

I took the time to accurately measure where the centerline of the torch tip is from the physical end & side of my table with the machine sitting at 0,0 & wrote that down as a referance.
Then throw a sheet of plate on the table, measure to the corner with a tape rule subtract my ref. numbers & there is the corner of the plate.

To align my plate (full Sheets) parallel I have index pieces on the far side of the table to bump the plate to.


I do find myself using bills method on smaller chunks. Measure from the edgs of the table to the plate to place it parallel. Then simply tram the torch out to the plate corner & record the DRO #'s Then off to Sheetcam.

[Voodoo Vintage]

Plain Ol Bill...

I've been following your build and I have to say... Hat's Off!

I am anxiously waiting my Dragon Cut 620-5 assembly to show up on my doorstep along with the 4' x 8' gantries from Precision (ordering on Wed). Since my build is almost identical to yours, I was wondering if you could provide some specifics on your AIR SCRIBE assembly? Such as...

If I purchase a single action pneumatic slide with 1" actuation that requires the same PSI as the Chicago Pneumatic Air Scribe, would I only require ONE solenoid air valve? And... What is the purpose of using 3-way solenoid valves instead of a regular on/off solenoid. Fixin' to throw down some money on Ebay and just wanted to make sure...

[plain ol Bill]

Voodoo thanks for the hats off. Let me see if I can confuse you:bs: I would want more than 1" throw on the slide. I think mine has about 2 1/2" throw. That must be a powerful slide if it requires 90 psi to operate it like the scribe requires. You are really controlling down force of the scribe with the air pressure that controls the slide. My slide works well and has sufficient down pressure for marking with 21-24 psi. The three way solenoid comes in because you have to have a port for the cylinder to exaust from. You have one port that is the air inlet, another port is air supply to the cylinder and the third post is to exaust the cylinder air and let it retract.
Have I confused you (grin).

[Voodoo Vintage]

Ha ha! Not confused as I'll be when it comes time to hook up the Blade-Runner!

I understand the need for 3-way valves now and will certainly look for this on Ebay.

I just purchased a Dura-Slide with a 2-1/8" actuation. Looks like it has built-in springs for return already. Hope this works!



I also ran across an Ingersoll-Rand pneumatic scribe. After searching the Internet, I've found it's actually a very high-quality product and uses the same type tips as Chicago Pneumatic. Also operates at 2.5 CFM with over 18,750 blows per minute. I can snag it for around $175!

Thanks for the info!!!

Voodoo thanks for the hats off. Let me see if I can confuse you:bs: I would want more than 1" throw on the slide. I think mine has about 2 1/2" throw. That must be a powerful slide if it requires 90 psi to operate it like the scribe requires. You are really controlling down force of the scribe with the air pressure that controls the slide. My slide works well and has sufficient down pressure for marking with 21-24 psi. The three way solenoid comes in because you have to have a port for the cylinder to exaust from. You have one port that is the air inlet, another port is air supply to the cylinder and the third post is to exaust the cylinder air and let it retract.
Have I confused you (grin).

[plain ol Bill]

the price is right on the scribe. When shopping fleabay for solenoids be sure to check the model number to see what working psi is on them. I bought six solenoids for cheap and thought I was set for life. Turned out the max pressure they would handle was 25 psi. So one worked for me and I had to find a high pressure one for the scribe.
That is a good looking slide and should work well for you!

[Voodoo Vintage]

If you don't mind me asking... Are your solenoid valves 12v or 120v? I'll be sure to pay attention to the working PSI! Thanks again for the great info!!!

the price is right on the scribe. When shopping fleabay for solenoids be sure to check the model number to see what working psi is on them. I bought six solenoids for cheap and thought I was set for life. Turned out the max pressure they would handle was 25 psi. So one worked for me and I had to find a high pressure one for the scribe.
That is a good looking slide and should work well for you!

[Voodoo Vintage]

Duh... Never mind me! Just saw your earlier post about running 120vac to the valves! Should have read a little better first...

If you don't mind me asking... Are your solenoid valves 12v or 120v? I'll be sure to pay attention to the working PSI! Thanks again for the great info!!!

[xcad]

double posted - sorry
X

[xcad]

Bill,
To you and all the contributors to the project build threads, many thanks for the time and effort taken to impart your considerable knowledge, craftsmanship and expertise to us DIYers. I have some questions that apply to your build and others so other contributors may wish to respond also.
Firstly, is there any advantage or disadvantage in using galvanized sheet instead of plain sheet in the water bath to minimize corrosion?
Secondly, in the interests or minimizing distortion from welding, is it essential to weld the water bath to the frame of the table; that is, exclude it as a structural member of the table frame.
Thirdly, what is the general requirement for thickness (1/4", 3/16", or 1/8") and depth of the slats for a water bath table?
Many thanks
X

[Jeep07]

Thirdly, what is the general requirement for thickness (1/4", 3/16", or 1/8") and depth of the slats for a water bath table?
Many thanks
X

I know many people use 1/8 2" for slats on plasma but I think the larger machines that run oxy and plasma go with 4-6" slats with 1/8 and/or 3/16. I think the depth on the oxy/plasma tables is for the oxy torches but I'm not 100% sure.

[The Inventor]

"Thirdly, what is the general requirement for thickness (1/4", 3/16", or 1/8") and depth of the slats for a water bath table?"

On my smaller table I used 12 gauge stainless and sandwiched it between the frame
and the bracket to hold the slats.

The Bigger the table the thicker the material has to be, or you have to run braces
under it to support the weight of the water.

I also 'ramp' the bed... ie: 3" on the shallow end and 4.5/5" on the deep end and then
weld in a nipple or coupler for a drain with either a pipe plug or ball valve.

Makes it very easy to clean that way.

As for material... whatever you use I'd use a marine epoxy paint on it and an anti-rust/
corrosion preventer additive to the water.

Grandpa Bill

[plain ol Bill]

Hmmm there have been some posts on the thread I started since I checked it so I will try to answer questions - Xcad I do not see any advantage at all to using galvanized material. A water table with anti rust inhibitor in it will not rust anyway. My table has had water in it for two years now and still no sign of rust showing anywhere. Galvanized is just going to cause problems when you go to weld on it also with fumes and porosity. My slats are 2 X 3/16 flat bar. To date I have replaced one of them due to cuts and bowing.
Thanks to all for comments and I will try to answer any questions.