588,033 active members*
5,947 visitors online*
Register for free
Login
Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    101

    Bijur Fittings

    I decided that I wasn't sure my table was getting enough oil on my R2E4 series II... so I decided to check flow to various points. I pulled the plastic hose going from the lube cabinet to the knee off at the T mounted on the knee. It appeared a previous owner had tightened this fitting to the point of expanding the sleeve inside the aluminum T. Unfortunately I think I am going to need a new sleeve, and a new T. These appear to be some sort of "Bijur Tapped Fitting" as they call it. Is there a generic equivalent, or possibly a cheap(er) place to get Bijur fittings like this?

    Apart from the problems I "caused" by investigating, it does appear like not much oil is coming through that line even when it is cut clean. Can anyone recommend how fast it should come out of here? Is it common for the oil lines to get plugged on older machines? Now that this one appears plugged I am suspicious of the others. It always seems like there is plenty of oil dripping down from the head.

    Sorry for the long "question", I'd appreciate any tips! Thanks!

    james peverill

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    24220
    One problem is that Bijur pumps are usually neglected and the oil tends to gum up after a while, the sump should be removed and the pump and filter cleaned, also you will probabally find that at each termination point there is a metering device, it look just like a straight brass fitting but it has a number on it which indicate the size of the orifice. These can become blocked over the years and the best way is to replace them all. If one has been blocked for any length of time the line will probabally be gummed up and need flushing.
    Al.
    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    564
    The "t" you are referring too, is it a metering point or just that a "tee"?
    I have used smc one touch fittings and even compression fittings in a pinch before on straight runs of oil lines, as long as the working pressure is not too high. If it is a metering point as Al mentioned you are better off to properly replace it to ensure you are getting the right metered amount of oil to your lube point.
    menomana

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    14
    here is a link to a company Emrick Machinery
    that has all the fittings and valves
    I emailed them they have the best prices I have found
    metering valves were $7.65

    I have a series 1 rigid that the metering valves are all gummed up
    if you look in your manual it should have a lube system drawing
    my series 1 has 13 or 14 of them
    mike


    http://emrickmachinery.com/lubrication-parts.php

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    101

    Oil renovation

    I tried soaking some of those metering valves in degreaser overnight and then baking them dry... the parts i could see looked clean but i'm not sure about inside. My machine has 25 of those little buggers... it pains me in the pocketbook to replace them all but if it's necessary I'll do it.

    I think all my tubing probably needs to be replaced, that is cheap enough ($.12/foot even from mcmaster). It is odd that in the parts list, one of the tubing sections is copper, whereas all the others are brass... maybe that one bends more?

    Thanks for all the tips, I'll get in touch with that company.

    james

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    101

    Two questions

    Ok so I am ordering all the parts I will need for the renovation. For some reason, all the hard lines in the machine are brass except for two. The lines that feed oil to the ballscrew nuts are copper. Does anyone know the reason for this?

    Second question, is there an easy way to get at the two lube fittings in the top of the head? I'm not anxious to pull off the top of the head to get at them...

    Thanks for all the tips!

    james

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    101

    plastic lines attached?

    I've got one more question about this stuff...

    Does anyone know how the plastic lines to the ways are held in the holes? They don't appear to just pull out (at least not with my tenative tugging). Are they glued or held in some how? As long as someone will tell me that they will go back in, I'll pull hard enough to get them out

    Thanks for all the help!

    james

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1810
    For what it's worth - take a look at this thread -

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10535

    It may give you a few ideas, it may not.

    Scott
    Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    14
    don't know on the plastic lines havent pulled the table off yet
    on the head it looks like if you follow the instructions for changing the z axis
    belt and lift the upper head up a little
    you should be able to get at the lower fitting thats where
    the metering valve is
    im just hoping the tube running to the top isnt clogged
    mike

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    101

    lines

    Seems like the plastic lines are glued into their holes somehow, maybe epoxy? I just finished ultrasonically cleaning and blowing out all the lube regulators. Lube seems to be flowing well to all regulators now.

    I'm debating whether to try to replace the short plastic lines that run from the regulators to the lube points. Looks like it won't be easy. Seems like the longer feed lines are more susceptible to getting plugged.

    james

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Posts
    866
    Quote Originally Posted by m37
    don't know on the plastic lines havent pulled the table off yet
    on the head it looks like if you follow the instructions for changing the z axis
    belt and lift the upper head up a little
    you should be able to get at the lower fitting thats where
    the metering valve is
    im just hoping the tube running to the top isnt clogged
    mike
    On mine, there is nothing on the top to clog, just an open plastic tube. Where did you get a manual? Changing the z axis belt looks like the sort of thing I'd like to have a manual for.

    I got all my metering units and tubing from MSC. They don't carry Bjur, they carry one of the knockoffs which seem to work just fine.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    101

    manual

    My machine came with all the manuals except the maintenance manual. Lucky for me when I realized I needed the maint manual I searched on ebay and there it was... just the manual i needed for a very reasonable buy it now! You can also get CD copies of a lot of them on various web sites around the net.

    Do you have a series 1? My mill actually has a T junction up in the head with two metered branches.

    Could you tell me some part numbers in the MSC catalog? I looked on there website and didn't find em! I'm curious what their prices are vs the lubrication houses.

    james

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Posts
    866
    I have a series II. I'm pretty sure there is one meter unit at the base that feeds the two lines at the top.

    MSC carries Trico. Took me a while to find them because MSC didn't keep records of my order. I guess those 1000 bytes were just costing them too much money to keep around. The metering units are on page 2661. Here is a direct link, it loads a pdf so might take a while. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=2667

    To find it I used Trico part number DSM-1

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •