[CarveOne]

Once completed...Honorable CarveOne would you please share this beautiful carving vector

I really had not considered completing it Khalid. I only started it to see how it would work as a Vcarving on wood or metal. The photo is a such low resolution image that is very pixelated in Aspire. That's why I can't accurately trace it manually. It is hard to see some of the details even when adjusting the fading of the image in an attempt to see the details better.

I will continue to work on it though, just for you. I'll also look on-line for some better line art examples. I tried doing some of this work in brass many years ago using a borrowed Gravermeister pneumatic engraving tool. I didn't have the tool long enough to get very good with it. I like the idea of CNC engravings much better.

My instrument panel project requires me to re-design it and cut a new version. The owner has decided that he will use the present panel on another project, a V8 engine powered "trike" 3 wheeled vehicle that he has been working on that has more foot room than the hot rod. Starting today I'll need to re-design and cut a new instrument panel for him that is not so tall.

[CarveOne]

I am going great gangbusters on getting to the point I can finish the router upgrade. POssibly this weekend.

Good deal. If this is your first CNC machine you will find all sorts of uses for it. You can see that I'm having loads of fun with mine.

[bill south]

Dang! I was hoping to see that dash panel installed! Guess I'll wait on the Trike!
Oh yeah Carve! Would it be possible to share the model for the 1911 grips. I'm actually working on a Caspian 1911 govt. build up in 9 mm! Those grips would give it a distinctive look! Well, I'd like it and it's my gun! Can we post Aspire files here?

Thanks.
Bill

[CarveOne]

Dang! I was hoping to see that dash panel installed! Guess I'll wait on the Trike!
Oh yeah Carve! Would it be possible to share the model for the 1911 grips. I'm actually working on a Caspian 1911 govt. build up in 9 mm! Those grips would give it a distinctive look! Well, I'd like it and it's my gun! Can we post Aspire files here?

Thanks.
Bill

The CAD files are a work in progress that are close, but not the final version. The last time I worked on it I was adjusting the outlines to better match the frame and didn't complete it before a ton of other things got in the way of completing it. You can get the DXF vector files and I can export the models in a .stl version if there is a licensing issue. The .crv3d format file for the front side is 15mb unzipped. I don't remember if the back side has been changed to match the front side yet. The Celtic weave is too coarse in my opinion. The backside has a thumb safety pocket and grip screw pockets. The back side is cut first, then flip it over and cut the front side. There are reference pin holes in the block of wood.

Do you have Aspire? Can you make the necessary changes? This is for a compact frame, not full size.

[bill south]

Yup, I'm the proud owner of Aspire. In fact I have photo v-carve, cut 3d, vcarve pro and aspire. Just a natural transaction from good software to the best (IMHO). Money well spent and just waiting on my retirement (2 years hence) to really get moving and learning. So far it's been signs, calendars, pictures, guitars, guitar necks (WIP) and a ton of "hey Bill, can you help me out with a sign for my ______ (fill in the blank). I'm sure you are very aware of what I mean.
Oh yeah, I also need to thank you for the charming paradise box that I presented to my first lady for Xmas! Of course I copied one of your designs and made the necessary changes to show that I custom made it for her.
I've been following this thread (mostly lurking) since you first started this mad project and have enjoyed every page of it.
Thanks for all the help and inspiration you've provided fjor myself and many others over the years. Look forward to many more.
Bill

[revwarguy]

revwarguy,

I drew some of the vectors based on your revolver photo just to see how the Vcarved scrolls would look. This is no means an accurate tracing but it shows what it can look like. The gaps between the scrolls and the screw location circles need to be wide enough to allow the cutter to leave a reasonable looking shallow groove for the cut depth limit you set. For this exercise I didn't set a depth limit.
I checked the tool path setup again and the new file I started already has -0.15" set as the depth limit.

Yeah! That is exactly what I had in mind. I've realized that for a given scale, you have to be conscious of how thin (thick/deep) the lines are between vectors in order for the look to be sustained. This in turn is really what dictates how big the scroll shapes can be and still retain the same texture.

On an aircraft instrument panel, you would have to be careful not to go too deep in order for it to maintain structural integrity under vibration. The instruments are often somewhat heavy (I do a more antique restoration type panels, not the newer lightweight glass cockpit stuff) so it needs to be strong. .062 and .092 are typical thicknesses. In this case we would have to byte the bullet for some extra weight to go to .125 or so. That would allow for a .025 DOC.

Anyway. thanks for giving it a go - I think it looks great! I'll have to shoot you a pic if I end up doing one like that. Probably try to wait until I can convince someone to help with the cost for it! Lately, I've been putting in the hours on a 3d printer and its learning curve.

[CarveOne]

Yup, I'm the proud owner of Aspire. In fact I have photo v-carve, cut 3d, vcarve pro and aspire. Just a natural transaction from good software to the best (IMHO). Money well spent and just waiting on my retirement (2 years hence) to really get moving and learning. So far it's been signs, calendars, pictures, guitars, guitar necks (WIP) and a ton of "hey Bill, can you help me out with a sign for my ______ (fill in the blank). I'm sure you are very aware of what I mean.
Oh yeah, I also need to thank you for the charming paradise box that I presented to my first lady for Xmas! Of course I copied one of your designs and made the necessary changes to show that I custom made it for her.
I've been following this thread (mostly lurking) since you first started this mad project and have enjoyed every page of it.
Thanks for all the help and inspiration you've provided fjor myself and many others over the years. Look forward to many more.
Bill

I have Vcarve Pro 3.5 and PhotoVcarve, and the Microcarve software.

I fiddled with the Celtic grip file today and made the weave denser and lower in height so that the grips don't feel so "knobby" as it would have with the first version I posted. Grip thickness is set at 0.30" at the moment, as some people think the 0.25" grips are a bit thin for them. A 1/16" tapered ball nose cutter with step-over of 0.0056" (8.9%) should be able to cut this without a roughing pass. I normally use the Precise Bits 15 degree taper cutters.

Still needs more work, then I'll upload a .zip file to my web site's Download folder. The .crv3d file is now 18.6 mb.

My problem is that I have such a backlog of things to do that I can't get back to the list of things I want to finish for myself. Like the big machine rebuild project. I have four projects in progress right now, and a backlog of more.

[CarveOne]

Yeah! That is exactly what I had in mind. I've realized that for a given scale, you have to be conscious of how thin (thick/deep) the lines are between vectors in order for the look to be sustained. This in turn is really what dictates how big the scroll shapes can be and still retain the same texture.

On an aircraft instrument panel, you would have to be careful not to go too deep in order for it to maintain structural integrity under vibration. The instruments are often somewhat heavy (I do a more antique restoration type panels, not the newer lightweight glass cockpit stuff) so it needs to be strong. .062 and .092 are typical thicknesses. In this case we would have to byte the bullet for some extra weight to go to .125 or so. That would allow for a .025 DOC.

Anyway. thanks for giving it a go - I think it looks great! I'll have to shoot you a pic if I end up doing one like that. Probably try to wait until I can convince someone to help with the cost for it! Lately, I've been putting in the hours on a 3d printer and its learning curve.

I hope to work on the scrolls for Khalid tomorrow while I'm waiting for polyurethane to dry on another project, and look for some engraving line art. Old gun engraving books should be available with just what you/we need. I'll post the .dxf file here when it's completed. The thin aluminum is tough to keep flat without a vacuum table.

[CarveOne]

Khalid,

Here is a .zip file that contains the revolver engraving photo, .dxf vector file, Aspire (v4.015) .crv3d file if you can use it, and the simulation image .jpg file. This is not drawn to any particular scale and is not an accurate reproduction of the photo. I took some liberties with it to get it to look like this. Some of the larger gaps between scrolls were filled in with a vector shape so that the Vcarve doesn't create large flat depth areas. Delete those if you want something that looks like a wood carving. I set this up more for a metal engraving look.

[CarveOne]

Yeah! That is exactly what I had in mind. I've realized that for a given scale, you have to be conscious of how thin (thick/deep) the lines are between vectors in order for the look to be sustained. This in turn is really what dictates how big the scroll shapes can be and still retain the same texture.

On an aircraft instrument panel, you would have to be careful not to go too deep in order for it to maintain structural integrity under vibration. The instruments are often somewhat heavy (I do a more antique restoration type panels, not the newer lightweight glass cockpit stuff) so it needs to be strong. .062 and .092 are typical thicknesses. In this case we would have to byte the bullet for some extra weight to go to .125 or so. That would allow for a .025 DOC.

Anyway. thanks for giving it a go - I think it looks great! I'll have to shoot you a pic if I end up doing one like that. Probably try to wait until I can convince someone to help with the cost for it! Lately, I've been putting in the hours on a 3d printer and its learning curve.

After I get my big machine working again I want to start on a 3D printer also. Of course, it won't be a tiny little wimpy thing either.

[kuroguy]

I suddenly have the urge to machine a full size aluminum (nonworking) model of a walther ppk.

[Khalid]

Thanks CarveOne.. You did a great job on that scroll pattern.. I am also anxious about your oncoming adventure about 3D printer Thanks again..

[CarveOne]

I suddenly have the urge to machine a full size aluminum (nonworking) model of a walther ppk.

You have my permission as long as you post it here somewhere.

[kuroguy]

i'll put it on the list which at this point is somewhat lengthy and currently proceeded by at least 2 guitar amplifiers, but if I ever do, i'll certainly post photos.

[CarveOne]

Thanks CarveOne.. You did a great job on that scroll pattern.. I am also anxious about your oncoming adventure about 3D printer Thanks again..

The scrolls can be cleaned up some more by selecting nodes on the curved vectors, deleting the nodes, then converting the resulting straight section of the vector to an arc, then reposition the arc where it looks best. I did a lot of that and converted some other sections to a line vector. If you wish to.

[CarveOne]

For those interested in scroll engraving vectors to try with the CNC machines, do a Google search for "free scroll engravings" or "free scroll engraving vectors" to find lots of vector downloads and books/DVDs are also available. You'll find the scrolls in books about making tooled leather belts also.

[revwarguy]

After I get my big machine working again I want to start on a 3D printer also. Of course, it won't be a tiny little wimpy thing either.

Here's what I am trying to do for a start, but I am also doing a lighter delta if you are curious at this point - they are both still under construction...

On engraving, the book by Meek is probably the best so far, but all gun engraving books and tutorials are pretty pricey. There are several distinct styles to pick from, like the one I posted is a variation on the acanthus style, and there are English and French variations of those. Some are just plain abstract, but I've always admired the design used on some of those 18th century dueling pistols. Steel Canvas is also a good book, but just great photos, no how-to.

[Miata2k]

After I get my big machine working again I want to start on a 3D printer also. Of course, it won't be a tiny little wimpy thing either.

Carve,

I just finished my 3D printer and its really a different design concept from building your router. A router is built for strength and rigidity because you are pushing that router bit through materials.

The 3D printer is only pushing hot plastic through a nozzle. Most are not capable of printing anything very heavy, since you are just printing with plastic. And 3D printing in general is a pretty slow process, so want to print as fast as you can. To improve speed, you try to make the moving parts small and light. The lighter the moving parts, the faster you can move them, hence printing faster. Rigidity is still very important in your design, but do you homework before just trying to just build a small CNC machine with a plastic extruder.

Having that said, I started my 3D printer process by attaching an extruder to my CNC Router. It worked fine, but doing fast infills would shake the bolts out of the machine, so I always had to print very slow.

When I built my 3D printer, I ordered parts from vendors all over the world. (ex. The electronics came 2nd day air from an ebay vendor in China!) After searching and picking parts, I realized that I should have just spend the money on a kit, at least for my FIRST printer. It's been much harder to "dial in" my 3d printer, vs my CNC router, it would have been nice to have something that worked right out of the box.

With the popularity of the device, there are more an more small companies selling machines and they seem to be getting cheaper by the day. I ordered my 2nd printer from MakiBox for $300, granted I've been waiting for them to ship it for 2 months now, but it should ship this week.

For me, 3D printing is just a more interesting process compared to my CNC Router. I really like my router and use it when I can, but it big and noisy and requires more setup to get it going. With the 3D Printer, I just pop the SD card with the files into the device, select the file and GO. The printer warms up, auto homes, and starts to print, 6 hours (more of less) later you have a new widget sitting on the print bed. No saw dust to clean up, no screaming vacuum or router, just the little buzz of the stepper motors.

As with any project there is always the right too for the job, so I don't see myself selling my router any time in the future, but creating complex objects with minimal setup is always a plus for me.

Good luck on getting caught up on all of your projects. I was looking forward to retiring someday, but between you and Widgit, you never have any more free time that I do.

-C

[CarveOne]

I was just teasing about the 3d printer build's construction. I'll look into it more seriously when it gets near time to do something. On my website is a gallery of photos I took at a Makerfaire in Raleigh, NC a couple of years ago. It's at the bottom of the homepage. There were lots of Makerbots and other 3D printers there.

[kuroguy]

I was there. the cooler stuff was the Mantis and the other CNC routers. seems all the makerbots were doing is squirting out Yoda heads. What the hell am I gonna do with a Yoda head?