[JohnJW]

I am hearing some mechanical noise from the TL2 when the rpm changes. It sound mechanical, like something engaging and disengaging. Not exactly grinding, more of a clank. It doesn't do it all the time, just some of the time and fairly random.

I though maybe it's the 5c pneumatic closer, but I don't feel or hear any rubbing when I turn the collet closer by hand.

Is this something I should be concerned with?

[Geof]

Is it around 700 rpm, plus or minus a bit?

It could be the contactors that switch the spindle motor from the low speed pole configuration to the high speed; the wye/delta switchover.

If you are facing a largish diameter (6" or so) in mild steel you will hear the contacts as the spindle speed increases. Also if you program 2000rpm in MDI but set the spindle override to 10% before you start the spindle you can step up the speed and you will hear them.

[Gmurillo84]

I was thinking the same thing possibly Wye/Delta contactor. but if it starts sounding worse I know dealers carry Vibration Analyzers for the machine spindles. This way at least you know your spindle is ok. How often does your machine make this strange noise?

[Geof]

I just checked. The contacts switch at 480rpm on the way up and 420rpm on the way down.

I did say 700 plus or minus.

[JohnJW]

I tried Geof's suggestion going from 200rpm to 2000rpm in 10% increment. I did hear the contactor noise around the 800 to 1000rpm jump. However, the noise I heard before was not the contactor noise. It was harsher, more of a metal on metal noise.

I remembered the thread on spindle warm up and ran the spindle at 500rpm for ~10 minutes then bumping to 1,000 rpm for another minute or two.

I ran the lathe for about two hours tonight and other than the contactor switching on and off, I did not hear the metal clanking/grinding noise I heard last night. The max spindle speed was at 3200rpm and that's where it was at most of the time turning small diameter parts.

The pneumatic closer did get quite warm, very warm. I am thinking maybe I should put a small fan next to it.

The part I am turning is very simple. Just 1" long with a 6-32 thread on one end. The gang tool made life a lot easier, but I still waste a lot of time manually adjusting the coolant nozzle. Had to program a M01 after each tool change. It was cool to discover the M17/M18 turret rotation direction so I can swing the gang tool toward the outside to avoid hitting the coolant hose. I diy on as much acrylic panels as I can to stop coolant overspray but I'm still getting some lead from both the front and the back between the frame and coolant pan.

Anyway, I've given up on getting a nub free part off so I have find a way to finish the backside. . . kind of disappointed, but whole process is already a lot faster with the gang tool/auto turret. . .just wish it could be a little more automated. . .