The Getting Started guide explains how to disassemble the saddle but I wasn't clear about one line. "It would greatly aid in the ease of this by running the y axis to it’s highest y travel first."
Originally Posted by
thackman
1) Does this mean I have to connect all of the electronics and get Mach3 up and running before disassembling the mill? Or should I take the steppers off and rotate the ballscrews by hand?
With the power off you can rotate screws by hand. Else you need power and Mach3.
Originally Posted by
thackman
2) Where is the point of highest Y travel? Toward the operator or toward the column?
Toward the operator I think. That exposes the limit switch etc.
Originally Posted by
thackman
3) There is a switch on the mill labeled "CNC Mode" but it's not mentioned in the users manual nor “The black magic of G-Codes spindle” guide. Normally I would guess that the switch was CNC Mode / Manual mode but I don't see the point of a manual mode since the mill doesn't have handwheels. The Spindle Control Manual hint's that it might be for CNC/Manual control of the spindle speed only but the English was so poor I thought it was worth clarification. Is there some case where I would not want to use Mach3 to control the spindle speed?
Yes. Because there is no tool changer, it easier just to stop/start/adjust speed. Great for drilling holes with the PC off, because it has a quill.
This is also a safety feature. Mach3 can't start spindle while you have the chuck key in it if you turn the switch to manual.
Originally Posted by
thackman
4) I was planning on cleaning the entire mill and but it occurred to me that I would be removing a perfectly good rust preventative from nonmoving surfaces like the motor mounts? Should I just clean the ways and leave the nonmoving parts like the motor mounts alone?
Yeah. Just clean the ways, reassemble and adjust the gibs. Make sure the limit switch cable goes around the left of the column looking from the front, else it will eventually get eaten by a y move towards the column.
Originally Posted by
thackman
5) How do I go about removing the head to clean and lap the column ways? It's not mentioned in the manual and appears to be more complex than the disassembly of the table and saddle. Do I just slide it up and off the dovetails or do I take the side plates off? What about the pneumatic cylinder and ballscrews? The size of the head doesn't look encouraging either any guesses as to what it weighs? The cables don't appear to be long enough for me to set the head on the floor once it's off. Overall it looks like it could have a lot of opportunities for mistakes. Any suggestions?
It is heavy. The gas strut is STRONG. Be careful. Big rat-trap. I would just give a good clean moving it to the extremities, then lubricate slide.
I have not removed the head. Ask someone who has.
Originally Posted by
thackman
6) What is the process for adjusting the Z-Axis gibbs? I was expecting it to have set screws but it appears to have a single large screw that holds it in.
The gib is tapered. Adjustment screw at top and bottom move it (the tapered gib) along the taper on the column. This is best done when all powered up, with Mach3 running it. Use a dial indicator. When backlash is least thats probably about right. Mine backlash is 0.02mm which is mostly head tilt when the screw overcomes the friction. For accurate work I move 0.02mm below the target Z level then back up to the required spot. Even had this problem on big machines. Friction, and no proper copunter balance does not help.
I am going to make a dynamic screw operated balance (one day). This does not have the inertia of counter weights. It will also means the head will go down much further, with no strut to stop it.
Originally Posted by
thackman
7) Can anyone explain what this line means? It's from the Spindle Control Board manual.
"Through jumps the line to brave, may cause the engine bed kneading board the rotational speed value, demonstrates original two times."
Chines translution solution. Funny way to think about voltage to frequency strategy that does not work correctly.
Originally Posted by
thackman
8) The drill chuck is covered in grease and doesn't open or close freely. I was considering soaking it overnight in k-1, cleaning it well and leaving it in a can of oil for a while. Any issues with that?
Spray a bit of WD-40 or CRC, or soak it in solvent off the machine and re-oil
Any timesaving tips you might have are appreciated.