[mactec54]

Sounds like a fun setup. We have the 30/60. the inrush is like 5amps on 240 single phase. Where do you have the wild-leg connected too? By that I mean the 240 VAC single-phase is passed thru the device, and the wild-leg (generated 3rd line) is connected up. You might try switching two wires? If you check the AC underload, are they within a few percent? On my RPC unit, we usually run tests as AC L1 to L2, AC L2 to L3 and AC L1 to L3. and jot them down. They should be with-in some tolerance spec as rated by the devices mfr. Say 10VAc? anyway my point is there can be times when you have internal power requirements that expect to use voltages derived from the 3 phases sent in. example would be the Haas where they split-up and run various sections from the 3 phase power-in On the Haas's L2 should be the wild-leg input. Not L1 or L3. (typically). Hence the thought to possibly swap two of the lines? (preferrbly making the wild-leg one of the swaps. btw/ Did they say way they suggested a buck-boost Xformer? A Xformer can help w/ some in-rush demands but it's limited. The circuit to pull in the contactor at 190 Degrees would be suspect to me at this point. but I've never seen their 3 phase compressor. I know on our 30/6- eastwood we love the unit except for the moisuture issues. post back... curious how it turns out

All compressors you can have moisture problems, that is why they have air dryers, which you need for CNC machines.

When you have/ use a Phase Perfect you don't really have a wild leg, they are a balanced system, which is better than straight 3Ph power, from the grid, they are also 98% efferent. so, he has no issue with a wild leg.

I would never use an RPC on CNC machines, they work, and a lot use them, over time you will have electrical repairs because of the RPC.

[kentdesautel13]

Just a quick update on things...

I still havn't received the buck booster, but the other day I ran most of the day with my CNC and the Air compressor running and the air compressor only alarmed (1) time, but I monitored my power at the air compressor and it was running in the 237V range.

Yesterday I tried to use the air compressor again and it started alarming right away ( My power at the compressor unit was 243V )

And this is consistent with my previous testing.... ( any time my power was in the 241v or higher it resulted in alarms )

Eastwood tech support wants to try a different control panel / controller unit, so they are sending that out.

On a side note, since i will be running (2) CNC's and an air compressor I ended up ordering a second phase perfect phase converter.

My plan is to have it sitting right by the other one and hooked up into the same 200 amp panel on as the other phase converter.

They would share the same earth ground.

This shouldn't be an issue?

[kentdesautel13]

I agree with you 110% on the need for a air dryer...

I was having all kinds of problems with my solenoid valves on my tool changer hanging, and It ended up being moisture problems from the air line.
As soon as I added the air line dryer it fixed it and haven't had any problems since

[countryguy]

Afternoon guys; to clarify my remarks, we run an air-dryer on the output too. a must. It was the closed system for lubrication fluid with the moisture filter and fluid filter that we had problems with. We ended up moving the location of the compressor and that helped. The moisture issues we had were related to the internal lubricating system getting excessive water build-up. It became excessive to the point of needing to drain the water off on a regular basis when running long days in the humid summer. We now also swap the water filters regularly after a big job. I run them in a light convection pizza oven and dry them out. When you open the small lub fluid tanks drain valve after some hot /cold cycles you can see the water flow out. We now just watch it closer. There are a lot of posts on the Eastwood forum on the subject. Overall , We love the Eastwood unit for the cost and output. Was just something to be aware of. Depends on the humidity.

On the phase perfect; Would love one here too. Matter of affordability for us. I did call them a few times as I thought they generated all 3 outputs digitally. On the manual link below, page 9- The 240 single phase is passed thru the unit ( when the contactor is active) from L1 & L2 directly into T1 and T2, while T3 is the generated line out. They have a much more efficient system for sure but I think they still simply pass L1 and L2 out to your equipment while monitoring the conditions of the generated power leg and adapting as needed. I was interested in the thread as we are getting a 2nd/new machine and actually need to again look at a new (larger) 3 phase generator. Any notes on the model/type and what sold you on it would be appreciated.

Manual: https://www.phasetechnologies.com/do...Manual_V20.pdf

Something we did to help manage that with a rural power and rotary RPC was an addition of the following transformer device. Worked really well to date.
https://phaseconverters.phase-a-mati...ge-stabilizers

enjoy the gear!
CG

All compressors you can have moisture problems, that is why they have air dryers, which you need for CNC machines.

When you have/ use a Phase Perfect you don't really have a wild leg, they are a balanced system, which is better than straight 3Ph power, from the grid, they are also 98% efferent. so, he has no issue with a wild leg.

I would never use an RPC on CNC machines, they work, and a lot use them, over time you will have electrical repairs because of the RPC.

[mactec54]

Afternoon guys; to clarify my remarks, we run an air-dryer on the output too. a must. It was the closed system for lubrication fluid with the moisture filter and fluid filter that we had problems with. We ended up moving the location of the compressor and that helped. The moisture issues we had were related to the internal lubricating system getting excessive water build-up. It became excessive to the point of needing to drain the water off on a regular basis when running long days in the humid summer. We now also swap the water filters regularly after a big job. I run them in a light convection pizza oven and dry them out. When you open the small lub fluid tanks drain valve after some hot /cold cycles you can see the water flow out. We now just watch it closer. There are a lot of posts on the Eastwood forum on the subject. Overall , We love the Eastwood unit for the cost and output. Was just something to be aware of. Depends on the humidity.

On the phase perfect; Would love one here too. Matter of affordability for us. I did call them a few times as I thought they generated all 3 outputs digitally. On the manual link below, page 9- The 240 single phase is passed thru the unit ( when the contactor is active) from L1 & L2 directly into T1 and T2, while T3 is the generated line out. They have a much more efficient system for sure but I think they still simply pass L1 and L2 out to your equipment while monitoring the conditions of the generated power leg and adapting as needed. I was interested in the thread as we are getting a 2nd/new machine and actually need to again look at a new (larger) 3 phase generator. Any notes on the model/type and what sold you on it would be appreciated.

Manual: https://www.phasetechnologies.com/do...Manual_V20.pdf

Something we did to help manage that with a rural power and rotary RPC was an addition of the following transformer device. Worked really well to date.
https://phaseconverters.phase-a-mati...ge-stabilizers

enjoy the gear!
CG

Sounds like you need to use automatic drains, so it can drain when it has too much condensate in it. do you have drops in the air lines, with drains at the bottom, this will help a lot as well, as the condensate will collect in the drops and not the main line.

Phase Perfect PT030 I have had for a few years now, it mostly runs a 60-ton Boy injection molding machine, plus other CNC machines that need 3ph power, how efficient they are along with their balanced 3ph output, makes them a buy, in comparison to an RPC. yes, they are spendy. but not if you have to replace a VFD Drive in your CNC machine.

[kentdesautel13]

Just a quick update on the compressor issue...

I installed the buck boost transformer, and this brought my voltage going to the compressor from a range of 237v - 245v down to a new voltage range of 208v - 213v

I've been running the compressor now for 2 days and the alarms have disappeared completely including when the fan turns on..... so that was positive news..

but now I've got another issue.

Now that the voltage is lower I'm noticing about every10th or so startup that my contactor that controls the main pump buzzs/chatters a bit for a split second ( I'm guessing when the voltage drops down in the 208v that it's not enough to fully engage the contactor )

So I'm wondering if your idea of the solid state contactor may be something to consider?

Or would would this not be a good idea considering that its a 11 HP motor?

I realize when you suggested the solid state contactor that it was for the fan motor.... not the main pump.... but just wanted to bounce that by you for your thoughts...

Thanks,

Kent

[mactec54]

Just a quick update on the compressor issue...

I installed the buck boost transformer, and this brought my voltage going to the compressor from a range of 237v - 245v down to a new voltage range of 208v - 213v

I've been running the compressor now for 2 days and the alarms have disappeared completely including when the fan turns on..... so that was positive news..

but now I've got another issue.

Now that the voltage is lower I'm noticing about every10th or so startup that my contactor that controls the main pump buzzs/chatters a bit for a split second ( I'm guessing when the voltage drops down in the 208v that it's not enough to fully engage the contactor )

So I'm wondering if your idea of the solid state contactor may be something to consider?

Or would would this not be a good idea considering that its a 11 HP motor?

I realize when you suggested the solid state contactor that it was for the fan motor.... not the main pump.... but just wanted to bounce that by you for your thoughts...

Thanks,

Kent

Correct the SSR was for the fan motor, the large compressor motor contactor, is still needed, the contactor coil most likely is not getting enough voltage, to close the contacts.

[kentdesautel13]

It's been a long process trying to get this compressor working correctly, but its finally working great!

I added a Acme Electric model A3015K0310B transformer ( Buck Boost Transformer ) to help get my voltage set closer to the safe voltage that the compressor was looking for.

The transformer ran around $600

I contacted the manufacture of the transformer and they gave me the correct wiring configuration to get our output voltage at aprx 234v

There are various wires inside the transformer and depending on how they are hooked up with get you to the desired voltage. ( the wiring configuration they gave me wasn't in the manual )

You can either raise your voltage or lower it depending on what wires you use on the inside.

This has now solved the issue of the over voltage alarms, and it has also solved the issue of the contacts chattering when they engage.

So we are good to go...

[mactec54]

It's been a long process trying to get this compressor working correctly, but its finally working great!

I added a Acme Electric model A3015K0310B transformer ( Buck Boost Transformer ) to help get my voltage set closer to the safe voltage that the compressor was looking for.

The transformer ran around $600

I contacted the manufacture of the transformer and they gave me the correct wiring configuration to get our output voltage at aprx 234v

There are various wires inside the transformer and depending on how they are hooked up with get you to the desired voltage. ( the wiring configuration they gave me wasn't in the manual )

You can either raise your voltage or lower it depending on what wires you use on the inside.

This has now solved the issue of the over voltage alarms, and it has also solved the issue of the contacts chattering when they engage.

So we are good to go...

It's been a little journey, but more expense than was needed though, once you had committed to the transformer, you had to make that work, it looks like the compressor is wired then for a 230v supply and NA 240v was just a little too much inrush for the cooling fan.