588,202 active members*
3,939 visitors online*
Register for free
Login
IndustryArena Forum > Material Technology > Material Machining Solutions > Parting case-hardened rods, what utensils to use?
Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    6

    Smile Parting case-hardened rods, what utensils to use?

    Hello to all, this is my second post.

    Have been working for almost 8 years on a CNC lathe (soon, when things at work will be less chaotic, to be a 5-axis mill operator), the machine's a "CMT, URSUS PLUS 250".
    Before I've always parted case-hardened rods with a cropper, can imagine what cloud of dust is around when I've to crop 32 pieces (Ø40 mm). Anyhoo, have not parted them with the lathe as have never had the right utensils to do so.

    One can think: "in EIGHT years you've never upgraded yourself?!". Well, yes, as have only started from August this year to work PROPERLY with the new supervisors; now with these guys in charge I've finally the chance in choosing by myself the appropriate tools.
    To avoid having all that dust around, are there any utensils specifically designed to part surface-hardened rods?

    Thanks to whoever will answer.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Posts
    601
    I'm not a lathe guy, but if you could find a parting tool that takes a ceramic insert you should be good to go.
    On all equipment there are 2 levers...
    Lever "A", and Lever F'in "B"

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    6
    Thanks for the advice, have Googled a bit but couldn't find anything, that's odd. Perhaps this operation isn't that common.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    251
    There is a insert called a cermit i have used them quite a few times for parting up to 60 hrc cased to about 2mm they work fine regards greg

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by greg b View Post
    There is a insert called a cermit i have used them quite a few times for parting up to 60 hrc cased to about 2mm they work fine regards greg
    D'you have the exact name of the insert and who made it -Sandvik, Hitachi, etc.-? My supervisor has asked one of them salesman but without much success.

    Thanks for the reply though.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    629
    greenleaf makes a whisker ceramic that may just do the trick for you. I thinks it wg-300 or something like that!
    "It's only funny until some one get's hurt, and then it's just hilarious!!" Mike Patton - Faith No More Ricochet

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    251
    I found straight ceramic a bit to brittle the cermits i beleive are a ceramic and carbide mix they worked quite well for my application,i think they were a sanvic or a kennametal product i will have a look through the workshopn and try and find the exact name/number.Regards Greg

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    629
    These Green leaf are Ceramic reinforced with Carbide. Have used them on inconel for grooving with good results. Just make sure you have sufficient RPM and rigidity in your setup!!!
    "It's only funny until some one get's hurt, and then it's just hilarious!!" Mike Patton - Faith No More Ricochet

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    195
    Forget all that outerspace stuff and just use carbide. Wing the lathe up to as much RPMs that you feel is safe and go for it. The mistake most people make with parting tools is the don't feed the tool in fast enough. If you really stand on it you will see a little fire but the carbide will go through the case like cheese.
    Be carefull what you wish for, you might get it.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    6
    Quote Originally Posted by JROM View Post
    Forget all that outerspace stuff and just use carbide. Wing the lathe up to as much RPMs that you feel is safe and go for it. The mistake most people make with parting tools is the don't feed the tool in fast enough. If you really stand on it you will see a little fire but the carbide will go through the case like cheese.
    I've used one kind of insert designed for turning cast iron to work these case-hardened rods and they work wonderfully, like cutting butter... apart from the fire that comes with it.

    I have tried with the usual parting insert but regardless the RPMs they still chip and cut terribly. It has also blocked the X-axis, stopping completely the lathe... and from that experience comes this post.

    I don't want to ruin that machine, it may has its years and may not be modern like the new 24 axis (kidding) machines, but it really still works great. Plus, I've learned a lot thanks to all these YouTube and VideoGoogle vids and want to better myself more.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    60
    JROM - yeah right !

    Deusrexmachina -
    You might want to try this ( used it for case hardened components and hard chomed bar )

    Before parting off actually turn off the 'skin' using a 0.4R 35 deg turn tip (VNMG) in something like a TP300 grade ( SECO ) with this tool you can feed into the bar at 45 deg ( 0.02 per rev ) to just under case depth ( 0.3) turn along ( ie 3mm tip width ) then feed out 45 deg .

    then call up part off tool and pt. off as per normal in the softer material.

    have fun!

    ST

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    6
    Hi star-turn, and thanks for your reply. Sorry if I didn't answer right away, but work has been... pretty fulfilling, to say the least. Add the fact that I've also injured myself and had to stay home for 7 days; have fully recovered from that: simply a deep cut on my left hand's fourth finger. :nono:

    Have found the right utensil, will type down it's code tomorrow. It's pretty good considering being only 2 mm wide.

    'Nighto.



    Quote Originally Posted by star-turn View Post
    JROM - yeah right !

    Deusrexmachina -
    You might want to try this ( used it for case hardened components and hard chomed bar )

    Before parting off actually turn off the 'skin' using a 0.4R 35 deg turn tip (VNMG) in something like a TP300 grade ( SECO ) with this tool you can feed into the bar at 45 deg ( 0.02 per rev ) to just under case depth ( 0.3) turn along ( ie 3mm tip width ) then feed out 45 deg .

    then call up part off tool and pt. off as per normal in the softer material.

    have fun!

    ST

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    60
    No worries.!


    Look forward to hearing how it all goes

Similar Threads

  1. Spot drilling case hardened steel
    By Zumba in forum MetalWork Discussion
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 03-04-2007, 08:32 PM
  2. 20MM Case Hardened or Bright Steel
    By simso in forum Linear and Rotary Motion
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 12-28-2006, 12:38 PM
  3. parting off a 3d model...
    By jasonwinters in forum SprutCAM
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 09-30-2006, 08:42 PM
  4. Parting 6061
    By ozzie34231 in forum MetalWork Discussion
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 06-27-2005, 06:04 PM
  5. what up with the parting?
    By balsaman in forum Uncategorised MetalWorking Machines
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 06-04-2004, 04:17 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •