[Steve Seebold]

Rory from Tormach posted a picture a few weeks ago of a modifacation he made to the coolant line on his PCNC 1100.

I have taken it a step or 2 further.

What I did was probably overkill because I used all brass pipe and real Loc-Line.

I moved the coolant line from the Z axiz to a fixed position on the column, then I used 1/4 inch brass pipe to build a manifold to get coolant to both sides of the part. So far, so good.

Then I put a short piece of 2 inch PVC pipe with a 90 drgree elbow over the coolant line. I did this mod because I use a fly cutter a lot, and when I do, it will splash coolant on the hose coming up from the tank. The splashed coolant then runs down to the top of the talk where there is no provision for any runoff so the coolant runoff eventually ends up on the floor creating a HUGE mess.

Since I added this pipe, I have had no more messes like that.

See what you have started, RORY?

[tbaker2500]

Nice.
I've been itching to try fixing it to the column for steady Z-axis. In theory, it seems to make coolant height adjustments unnecessary except for parts with big z-changes. What have your results been?

[Steve Seebold]

So far the results have been amazing. I just set the coolant lines to point at the cutter at the top of the part.

Now I wish I hadn't waited as long as I did.

[Steve Seebold]

By the way, that red and yellow boat in picture number 3 runs high 70's to low 80's set up for straight line and high 60's to low 70's in heat race trim.

[tbaker2500]

Heh. Wow. I'm gathering the water has to be pretty calm?

[Steve Seebold]

Heh. Wow. I'm gathering the water has to be pretty calm?

Actually a 2 to 3 inch chop on the water works very well. It lets the boat break loose.

[twocik]

Steve the PVC is a great idea !!! I get coolant on the floor all the time when I machine all day and think this will work perfect. How is this attached at the base ?

[Steve Seebold]

Steve the PVC is a great idea !!! I get coolant on the floor all the time when I machine all day and think this will work perfect. How is this attached at the base ?

It's not attached at the base. It just slides over the thingie that sticks up where the coolant line comes out of the base, and if you look at the third picture, you can see a wire tie that holds the tube in place. I drilled a 1/4 inch hole on either side of the pipe, put the wire tie through it and pulled it tight. I used a tool called a fourth hand that I had when I owned a bicycle repair shop to pull the wire tie tight.

It's very effective. I don't get coolant on the floor any more. Too bad it won't stop chips.

[Steve Seebold]

I did another mod to the coolant lines.

I got the new tubes from McMaster. They are called "Stay Put Flexible Metal Coolant Hose" . Part number 5258K23. They were $11.10 each plus tax and shipping.

I got really tired of the way you can adjust the position of the Lock Line. If I wanted to move it 1/4 inch, it would move 3/4. With these lines, I point them at the cutter on top of the part and that's where they stay.

Please excuse the chips in the machine. I bought it to run it.

[GJeff]

Moving loc line tubes sucks. Those look great.

[mike sr1]

Good idea Steve, I have a couple 1/8" on my current order!

[Steve Seebold]

I have about $75.00 in the coolant line modification with all the brass pipe. I'm sure if you used galvanized pipe you could do it for considerably less.