[dsdmax]

I took delivery of a new g0704 mill a few weeks ago and have been in the EXPENSIVE process of gathering tooling and measuring equipment. Ultimately i hope to build a little live steam train 3/4" (i also got a g0602 lathe).

I am having some issues with the mill - specifically with the TTS tools pulling out of the spindle (Tormach). I think this is because i am not able to tighten the collet enough. That might be due to a missing or incorrect spindle ring. See attached picture. It is not a complete ring - is that correct? Should there be grease this high. When tightening the drawbar with the two wrench method the spindle still turns despite holding the low wrench. More effective is holding the spindle nose by hand though i am sure this is not a the preferred method.

I have seen some threads about pneumatic powered draw bars. I am interested - because soon i will have that three hand problem common with TTS. That said - before i deal with air compressors and cylinders. If i install the belleville springs (i am assuming these would be installed between the drawbar and the spindle (see second picture). Would i be able to fabricate a lever that i could operate by hand? Not being an engineer - any idea how long that would have to be to apply enough force? Would i have to make or buy a longer drawbar? How many washers (looks like i would have to have an even number so that the upper and lower washers have a surface to bear against.

Thanks in advance for the help - there is so much to learn and i am brand new to this!!!

Of course - if i can get this to work manually eventually pneumatic operation will follow.

hoping to do a CNC conversion in the future as well - though that might be tough without a second mill... unless i get one of those kits i read a number of people have under development...

[Starleper1]

There should be a cap that threads on the top.

Also ditch the stock draw bar. I made a new one out of stainless. The problem with the stock one is that, it goes inside the spindle cap, and when you put one wrench on the cap and one wrench on the draw bar the cap wants to unscrew instead of the draw bar getting tight. I solved this by moving the draw bar to the top of the cap, forcing the draw bar and cap to work against each other rather then away.

Also I put a larger hex on the new draw bar to accept a larger wrench for more leverage. The stock was 10mm which is obviously going to use a very small wrench.

I have some other idears about power draw bars, but for now I need something simple and effective.

Pic

[dsdmax]

thanks Starleper1,

I do have the retainer nut - i just removed it for the photos so that the spindle ring would be visible. Can you check yours to see if it is a complete ring or incomplete like mine is?

So if i understand your drawbar mod -yours no longer rides on top of the spindle - rather the larger nut rides on top of the retainer nut??? Seems like a simpler design - wonder why it wasnt built that way...

[hoss2006]

thanks Starleper1,

I do have the retainer nut - i just removed it for the photos so that the spindle ring would be visible. Can you check yours to see if it is a complete ring or incomplete like mine is?

I'm guessing you're talking about part #201 the Quill retaining clip, so yes yours is correct, it slides out from the side when the spring pressure is removed.
http://cdn1.grizzly.com/partslists/g0704_pl.pdf

So if i understand your drawbar mod -yours no longer rides on top of the spindle - rather the larger nut rides on top of the retainer nut??? Seems like a simpler design - wonder why it wasnt built that way...

Well unfortunately, the mod puts all the force against the very fine threads of the retainer cup and retaining clip instead of against the top of the spindle like the original drawbar. Those threads are easy to strip and finding an M20 x 1.0 replacement is dang hard to find, I've looked. I wanted a couple for the belt drive. The Normal looking drawbar is good, just lose the retainer cup and add a spindle lock. Or at least fill the void inside the retainer with a sleeve to direct the force onto the spindle. A pneumatic power drawbar wouldn't need any spindle lock. A spindle lock similar to whats done on the X2 could be done to this spindle, It's halfway done for us actually.
Hoss

[minug]

Got my mill cleaned, deburred and dialed in with the 5" Shars ebay vise. Nice fit!

Made a new strorm door support after mother mature ripped it off the hinges,

it's windy up here on the island! Mill cut very nicely, but I was only in

aluminum. gotta mill a new steel plate for a Ford flathead today, that will be the test.

I sure don't like the drawbar! We need a spindle lock, any ideas?

How do you take the draw bar out?Attachment 103861

[ihavenofish]

im having trouble fully understanding whats wrong with the drawbar.

the thing is supposed to self extract. you loosen the drawbar, it backs out agans the retainer, and forces the tool out of the taper.

correct me if this is wrong, but do you not just put a wrench on the spindle nose, and one on the drawbar? not sure why a spindle lock is needed other than convenience of not needing 2 wrenches. (ah crap, just looked, theres no wrench flats on the nose. there is on the MT2 version. now thats a major oversight.)

i still dont fully understand the issue with the retaining cup.

[Starleper1]

The problem is they are both right hand threads. If they had made the spindle cap a left hand thread it would work like it is suppose to.

When you tighten the draw bar you turn to the right. When you put a wrench on the spindle cap and try to tighten the draw bar the spindle cap just loosens.

It's kind of hard to explain. Just think about which way you are applying force.

[ihavenofish]

The problem is they are both right hand threads. If they had made the spindle cap a left hand thread it would work like it is suppose to.

When you tighten the draw bar you turn to the right. When you put a wrench on the spindle cap and try to tighten the draw bar the spindle cap just loosens.

It's kind of hard to explain. Just think about which way you are applying force.

ahhhhh. so removing the drawbar is probably fine. its tightening it thats bothersome. i think i understand the issue now.

i wonder if theres something to lock it down (besides loctite). cause they way youve done it doesnt really solve that, it just puts the drawbar force onto the cap. it also removes the self extracting function, which means you gotta whack it with a hammer.

really there should be wrench flats milled onto the spindle nose or some sorts of spindle pin lock.

heres what ya need for some experimenting:
http://www.weissmachine.us/default/t...8-spindle.html



they put that up for me. i got one shipped with my wmd16v to convert it to r8 so i can use tts. i'll measure it up when it arrives to see if its compatible with the grizzly and others.

[Starleper1]

No, what I did does solve the cap loosening problem. Because as you tighten the draw bar the cap cannot unscrew.