I received my PM20Lv from Machine Tools Warehouse on Friday.
It appears to be a copy of the Optimum BF20Lv, rather than the Grizzly G0704 version. The motor is rated at 850W, and on high it ran up to 3500rpm (indicated by the tach), which is funny because the sticker on the speed adjustment knob says 2500rpm max, but I'm not complaining.
As you can see from the pictures, the spindle and rpm sensor are a bit different than the G0704. I haven't taken the spindle apart to check the internals yet, but where the sensor disc is mount doesn't move when the quill goes down, so it might actually be a spot to mount a timing or vbelt pulley.
Today, I cleaned it up using brake cleaner, and sprayed it down with Boeshield T-9. Everything moves smoothly, although with the table extended it takes more effort to move the Y axis. There are also no counterbalance or gas struts on the Z, so I may add them later when I convert it to CNC. The Y axis keeps coming out until it hits the handwheel, can someone tell me what the max is I want the table to hang off the base?
My only complaint so far is the drawbar. The mill came with a drill chuck and arbor with an R8 sleeve, and everything went together just fine. But when I tried to insert an R8 end mill holder I picked up the other day, it wouldn't thread into the drawbar. Looks like the drawbar is a course thread, and my end mill holder is fine thread. Can anyone tell me what the standard thread for R8 is?
I also made an order with Maritool yesterday for some ER25 straight shank collet holders and a set of ER25 collets, as well as some aluminum cutting endmills. I'll be getting a vice from Glacern and the TTS parts in the next few weeks.
I'm going to be converting the mill to CNC control, and the current plan is to use Nema23 servos with Gecko 230V purchased from Keling. Most likely running 4:1 with timing belts.
I'm also going to get a set of DROs from mydigitaldog.com. I found their ad in Digital Machinist, and a set is only $90 per axis, 24in long for the X and 12" long for the Y. I won't bother with the Z as the head has a DRO built in. This setup with help me machine the parts manually for the conversion.