I am heading to ace hardware right now and wondering if there's any coolant I may be able to find in the automotive fluid section. Need it for mu sieg kx3 coolant box for cutting aluminum
I am heading to ace hardware right now and wondering if there's any coolant I may be able to find in the automotive fluid section. Need it for mu sieg kx3 coolant box for cutting aluminum
You got yourself into a pickle trying to run a machine where you are currently it seems. Should have brought more things with you on the trip.
Only thing I can think of that would get you even close is anti-freeze, which contains glycol. Know in advance that it is going to leave a sticky residue and will be very harsh on skin.
Depending on your machine coolant pump and your parts, you can always use motor oil as a coolant.
Where do Indonesian machine shops buy their supplies?
don't use anti-freeze
you can use wd-40 to cut aluminum (i would not put it threw the coolant pump) use a spray bottle
i have never tried this but some have :
motor oil
laundry detergent
water
you will have to play with the mix ratios
I tried WD40 and it seemed to work like a charm but rather not stay there spraying it, plus its messy because hard to aim it in one place. I will try to find out where the machine shops get their supplies or just import it from the US.
Do coolant systems generally have a filter to make sure the chips don't get into the pump?
Yes filters are used as well as settling tanks and skimmers
I wonder if the oem Sieg coolant box has those built in. Was going to test it out tomorrow.
Machines typically do not have a true filter. That they have is one or more screens. They also rely on a certain amount of settling action. This is why it is important to fully clean sumps/coolant tanks periodically. Scoop out the poop.
This is the result of a quick web search. Many good suggestions within:
CUTTING FLUIDS
The purposes of using cutting fluids on the lathe are to cool the tool bit and workpiece that are being machined, increase the life of the cutting tool, make a smoother surface finish, deter rust, and wash away chips. Cutting fluids can be sprayed, dripped, wiped, or flooded onto the point where the cutting action is taking place. Generally, cutting fluids should only be used if the speed or cutting action requires the use of cutting fluids. Descriptions of some common cutting fluids used on the lathe follow.
Lard Oil
Pure lard oil is one of the oldest and best cutting oils. It is especially good for thread cutting, tapping, deep hole drilling, and reaming. Lard oil has a high degree of adhesion or oiliness, a relatively high specific heat, and its fluidity changes only slightly with temperature. It is an excellent rust preventive and produces a smooth finish on the workpiece. Because lard oil is expensive, it is seldom used in a pure state but is combined with other ingredients to form good cutting oil mixtures.
Mineral Oil
Mineral oils are petroleum-base oils that range in viscosity from kerosene to light paraffin oils. Mineral oil is very stable and does not develop disagreeable odors like lard oil; however, it lacks some of the good qualities of lard oil such as adhesion, oiliness, and high specific heat. Because it is relatively inexpensive, it is commonly mixed with lard oil or other chemicals to provide cutting oils with desirable characteristics. Two mineral oils, kerosene and turpentine, are often used alone for machining aluminum and magnesium. Paraffin oil is used alone or with lard oil for machining copper and brass.
Mineral-Lard Cutting Oil Mixture
Various mixtures of mineral oils and lard oil are used to make cutting oils which combine the good points of both ingredients but prove more economical and often as effective as pure lard oil.
Sulfurized Fatty-Mineral Oil
Most good cutting oils contain mineral oil and lard oil with various amounts of sulfur and chlorine which give the oils good antiweld properties and promote free machining. These oils play an important part in present-day machining because they provide good finishes on most materials and aid the cutting of tough material.
Soluble Cutting Oils
Water is an excellent cooling medium but has little lubricating value and hastens rust and corrosion. Therefore, mineral oils or lard oils which can be mixed with water are often used to form a cutting oil. A soluble oil and water mix has lubricating qualities dependent upon the strength of the solution. Generally, soluble oil and water is used for rough cutting where quick dissipation of heat is most important. Borax and trisodium phosphate (TSP) are sometimes added to the solution to improve its corrosion resistance.
Soda-Water Mixtures
Salts such as soda ash and TSP are sometimes added to water to help control rust. This mixture is the cheapest of all coolants and has practically no lubricating value. Lard oil and soap in small quantities are sometimes added to the mixture to improve its lubricating qualities. Generally, soda water is used only where cooling is the prime consideration and lubrication a secondary consideration. It is especially suitable in reaming and threading operations on cast iron where a better finish is desired.
White Lead and Lard Oil Mixture
White lead can be mixed with either lard oil or mineral oil to form a cutting oil which is especially suitable for difficult machining of very hard metals.
I use kerosene for aluminium. But I'd not want to pump it in a coolant system.
Veggy oil works in a pinch. Safe and effective.
They may not have in stock right this moment, but my local napa can order in water soluble cutting/grinding oil with a days notice for around $25-30/gallon.
91% isopropyl alcohol, CVS, walgreens, no residue.
I found some 10:1 water:coolant cutting fluid and it seems to do the trick (white foamy liquid). Am I supposed to wipe the left over fluid off the table, work pc, and tool to avoid corrosion or what not? How important is this (a quick wipe is no problem but to get rid of every drop of coolant will take time)
at 10:1 do you see any rust starting ?
No rust yet, I am usually wiping off the top of the T table and wet vacuuming as much as I can out of the bottom part. I left it overnight wet before an no problems. I am just wondering if this can cause rust, the manufacture recommended 10:1, should I add another 1L fluid to make it 5:1?
i wipe down things i don't want oil build up on when the water evaporates from the coolant
i found as long as the ratio is correct i never get any rust , just don't pour strait water on the machine , just add it to the tank