[HackMax]

Ever since I've been using coolant I have been losing my paint on the base on my Grizzly X3. I'm using Trim SC200 mixed about 8:1. Has anyone else had any problems?

Rick

[mc-motorsports]

Oil based and Cim-Cool works fine. Is that the factory paint?

[cadmonkey]

I had a little bit of that when I was still using WD-40 as a cutting fluid (first couple days of the machine). Since then I've been using Rustlick WS5050 without trouble. Not much gets onto the painted parts however due to my sheet rubber way cover on the Z - it covers the whole backend of the saddle straddling the base side to side.

I know a 2 part epoxy would hold up to nearly anything you'd ever throw at it. You need to clean good for it to adhere if you want decades out of it (it could outlast the mill itself...). I used a Benjamin Moore product on my garage/shop floor. It was about $100 a gallon but well worth it for the floor.

It'd be an overly large amount for the mill though and I don't know if they sell quarts or not. If you're doing floors and other equipment (they can do rough coloring but it's an industrial product so the store clerks don't really know how to color it right, I had to coax the clerk and sign off to take all the risk if it failed so I could have a light gray made out of my white base).

You could probably use one of the small garage floor kits that Home Depot and the like sell - those are Rustoleum brand I'm pretty sure. Just don't use the traction flecks - and DON'T get it on your ways...

HTH

Greg

[HackMax]

Oil based and Cim-Cool works fine. Is that the factory paint?

Yes I haven't changed the paint and I dont really care if it comes off or how it looks as long as it doesn't rust.

Rick

[HackMax]

I had a little bit of that when I was still using WD-40 as a cutting fluid (first couple days of the machine). Since then I've been using Rustlick WS5050 without trouble. Not much gets onto the painted parts however due to my sheet rubber way cover on the Z - it covers the whole backend of the saddle straddling the base side to side.

I know a 2 part epoxy would hold up to nearly anything you'd ever throw at it. You need to clean good for it to adhere if you want decades out of it (it could outlast the mill itself...). I used a Benjamin Moore product on my garage/shop floor. It was about $100 a gallon but well worth it for the floor.

It'd be an overly large amount for the mill though and I don't know if they sell quarts or not. If you're doing floors and other equipment (they can do rough coloring but it's an industrial product so the store clerks don't really know how to color it right, I had to coax the clerk and sign off to take all the risk if it failed so I could have a light gray made out of my white base).

You could probably use one of the small garage floor kits that Home Depot and the like sell - those are Rustoleum brand I'm pretty sure. Just don't use the traction flecks - and DON'T get it on your ways...

HTH

Greg

Thanks for the info Greg. Yeah I have a plastic cover trying to keep out the chips from the back of the mill. When I removed it to clean out the chips that still seem to find their way back there anyway I noticed the paint all bubbled up. I have some motorcycle tins to paint here soon and will clean up the base and shoot it while I have the equipment prep'd. Base coat\clear coat is pretty bullet proof when it comes to solvents. The clear is basically a plastic coating. Really I don't care how the thing looks as long as it does what it's supposed to do. Just need to keep the rust down. I lost paint everywhere where the coolant puddles and so far no rust so the coolant must be protecting the surface.

Rick

[davereagan]

8 to 1 is pretty strong concentration, (11-12&#37, but if it's a full synthetic and you are doing tapping or reaming, you may need all of it. Otherwise, the concentration is definitely taking the paint off faster than 12 or 14 to 1.

[HackMax]

8 to 1 is pretty strong concentration, (11-12%), but if it's a full synthetic and you are doing tapping or reaming, you may need all of it. Otherwise, the concentration is definitely taking the paint off faster than 12 or 14 to 1.

Ahh yeah sorry about that - I didn't explain that right. I meant 8oz to 1gal of water which is a bit over 6%. I make it this way and then I can add a little water for evaporation compensation later. Works great at that and could probably thin it out more. Nice catch there.

Actually the paint is quite lame on this mill. I noticed where I've been sticking the magnetic coolant valve it's getting all scratched up there. I've been around plenty of industrial equipment and the paint never scratched up this easily.

Thanks,
Rick