Hi,
Is the choice between the left or right tilting blade on a cabinet saw dependant solely upon the layout of your shop or is there any other reason to choose one over the other?
Thanks.
Hi,
Is the choice between the left or right tilting blade on a cabinet saw dependant solely upon the layout of your shop or is there any other reason to choose one over the other?
Thanks.
diarmaid I'm pretty sure it is dependent on machine design. Some lean one way....some the other.
Mike
No greater love can a man have than this, that he give his life for a friend.
This question gets to be a religious debate in some woodworking groups.
When using the saw the fence is usually to the right of the blade, that's the normal setup and usually the most natural. Left tilt saws tilt the blade away from the fence on the right and supposedly reduce the risk of pinching the piece between the fence and blade. There's also an arguement that since you're pushing the piece through against the fence the blade is tilted away from your fingers too.
The arbor thread on left tilt saws a normal right hand thread, on right tilt saws it's a left hand thread which can take a while to get used to when changing blades.
Either way I think you get used to your saw whatever the tilt might be and wouldn't necessarily make it a decision point for a TS personally. I'd look for other features like accuracy, decent trunnion movement, dust extraction, decent straight solid top, a blade guard that works and above all a good fence.
My PM66 is a left tilt and now I'm used to it as a right hander I wouldn't like a right tilt saw FWIW.
The main difference is if you're cutting 45° miters. With a left tilt saw, you can cut the panels face up, which is preferable. With a right tilt saw, you cut them face down, which can leave chipped edges or tearout. It is possible to cut miters face up with a right tilt saw by using a sacrificial board clamped to the fence, and cutting the miter against the fence. Make sure the sacrificial board has a relief cut in for the scrap to fall into, or it will get thrown back at you very rapidly Make sure you know what you're doing if you try this. My Unisaw is right tilt, and I prefer it myself. Just a matter of personal preference, though.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Hmmmm...so far the comments have me thinking that a left tilting would be better from a safety point of view. And since Im not used to either yet its not a problem to go with one or the other. The Jet Saw Im looking at can be bought with either left or right.
Left tilt is useful in a lot of ways, newer saws seem to be going that way but people are still used to the old right tilt which is why I think both are still options. With left tilt not only can you cut clean mitres easily, it is also a lot safer and less scrapped parts to cut face up with some jobs and materials that have sharp angles that tend to stick and wedge UNDER the edge of the fence or snag and chip on the table (you commonly need to run a mitre down more than one edge of a board, think about that first cut, face down, against the fence). Laminates can be a real pain that way too.
Uhm... Left cut. I prefer it due to the fact that I do quite a bit of bevel ripping.
Shop teacher here...... Go left young man!
Dear diamaid,
My saw is a Powermatic 66 (actually I should have bought a Unisaw, but that is another story!) with a right side table extension and a left leaning saw. The excellent Biesemeyer fence is to the right of the blade.
I am right handed, so it suits me to push the workpiece into the blade with the hand that has the greater strength (erh, and best mental software).
If I was left handed, I would choose a left table extension, put the fence to the left of the blade, and choose a right leaning saw trunnion.
Same difference really. I never have liked the idea of a blade that can chew into the fence at the top of its rotation.
BTW, use fence wheels on the top of the fence to keep the workpiece snug against the fence as you push it through. Money well spent.
Oh yes, and stay out of the kick-back area!
Good luck,
Best wishes,
Martin
diamaid left us two years ago
John
No he didn't. He just has a different name now.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Not inside it.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
He keeps an eye on things from time to time..............
Why did he leave us, I liked him we need him back (group)