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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    86

    Solsylva 10x9 - First Build

    Well, I started a build finally. Years ago, I bought the electronics for a different plan and never got around to building it. It was rather complicated with tapping and fabricating parts out of delrin, etc.

    After quite a bit of research, I settled on the Solsylva 10x9 as my first build. I figure this can help me "cut my teeth" and possibly help me build parts for a future machine. I decided to do an "upgraded build" and use Oak and the higher end hardware.

    I am progressing through the build nicely...have the base done and am getting ready to install the Y lead screw. And here comes my first question.

    I have decided to do the Precision Acme leadscrew upgrade. I got the lead screw (3/8"-10 Sz, 1/5" Travel/Turn, 2 Starts) from McMaster Carr and the anti-backlash nuts from dumpster CNC. I am now looking at the plans and modifications a little more closely and am wondering....

    I see how the screw attaches to the stepper through two skate bearings (Yes, I got the bigger size for this). In the design, when using all thread, you drill the hole on the opposite end just big enough for the rod...I would guess that this provides some support. But on the Solsylva website, they say you can actually make that hole much bigger and not have to worry about it.

    My question is this...what provides support for the opposite end of the rod? Does it need support? Does the bearings and leadnuts provide enough support? Does the extra torque of the screw on the leadnut/bearings when the table is moved to the end closest to the bearings put extra strain on the parts?

    Anyways...I guess it would be really hard to get another bearing lined up perfectly on the opposite side...but would that be optimal?

    I'll post pictures of my progress in the next day or so.

    Regards,
    PiperPilot

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    86
    Well, the machine is working and I was able to surface the table. I'll start out by uploading a few pictures to start.

    Here is a picture of the stack of wood. As I mentioned before, I used Red Oak from Lowes. I made sure I picked boards that were very straight and had few knots or anything in them. One thing I learned about using Oak...its much more unforgiving because it is so stiff. You need to make sure that you have everything lined up perfect because there is no "bending" it to get in alignment. This also lead to a very square, stiff setup.



    Here is a picture of the Y and Z axis before I put them together. A key step is to make sure that the Y axis (moving table) is in alignment and moving well before installing the gantry. I had an issue with my tubing not being completely square, so had to remove and re-install it. If I had to do it again, instead of using those aluminum pipe clamps, I would use the plumbers tape as it is more flexible and would probably allow for a more snug joint.



    Here is an image of the two sections sitting together...they aren't screwed together at this point, but you can see how nice of a fit they have.



    I'll post some more pictures and some video later today. One of the problems I have found with this build is with 2 little kids (2 and 4yrs), I have little time to work on this myself during the day. Most work is done after they go to bed. Next big project is to build an enclosure so I can cut in the late evening without waking the kids/neighbors.

    More later...

    PiperPilot (Curtis)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    1036
    Looks great! Are you going to seal the wood?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    0
    Nice job! Can't wait for more updates

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    86
    @DonFrambach, not sure what I am going to do yet. I have a can of clear poly here that I might seal it with. I really wish I had hit the boards with a can of spray paint before putting it all together...giving it maybe that nice Blue/Silver look that I have seen before. Alas, I was too impatient. Now my only choice is to brush something on to avoid getting paint where I don't want it.

    Now onto more pictures and some video. First off, here is a video of cutting the surface of the table level. Actually here's two videos. the first one is the cutting just starting out. I am linking it so you can see how far out of alignment my table was. There are lots of adjustments here you can do, and I would suggest using a level and trying to get the table as close to level as possible.

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLfjsk8EBTQ]Solsylva 10x9 CNC Starting Surface of Table - YouTube[/ame]

    Now this next video, you can see the cutting is almost done. It is a better shot of it actually doing the cutting. I was rather impressed that this cut so well. This is the same red oak used for the rest of the router and it cut through it rather well.

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlPZ3IFfPhM]Solsylva 10x9 CNC Midway Through Surface of Table - YouTube[/ame]

    Next, I shot this video tonight...its of the router making parts for itself This is cutting pine board and it looks like it is cutting about 3/16 or so per pass. I'm not sure if I got my speeds right, but it seems to be cutting well and sounds OK. I do have some strange resonance that I need to look into, not sure if you can make it out in the video or not.

    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LY3JUlcOpo4]Solsylva 10x9 CNC Cutting a Dust Shoe - YouTube[/ame]

    Last, here is a picture of the completed parts. I think they turned out really good. I take no credit for the design, the gcode is on the Solsylva website.



    So next things I am working on...probably in this order:

    • Install Dust Shoe
    • Install Home/Limit Switches
    • Build bench on casters
    • Build enclosure to reduce noise
    • Design/cut front/back panel for electronics


    Thats all for now. Hopefully I'll have more time to work on the project this weekend. I'd love to actually build my bench as I'm sure its not good for the router for me to be picking it up and moving it onto a folding table when I want to work on it. Even with it being rather stiff, I'm sure I can easily get it out of whack by moving it frequently.

    I also need to get an enclosure built for it. I was cutting those parts tonight and it was kinda loud outside the garage. I'm sure the neighbors couldn't hear it in their house, but it was still too loud to do much past 8 or 8:30 at night.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    0
    Very nice

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    60
    Looking nice and solid! I've always liked the look of this little 10x9 machine. You built it up well.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    60
    Ohh and regarding and enclosure. Rockswool insulation makes for an amazing sound reducing cabinet. I was able to run my desktop mill pretty much all hours of the night while living in my apartment. A simple 2x4 frame, hardboard exteriors and insulated with rockswool...although judging by your wood working skill I'm sure you'll have no problems conjuring up something.

    Looking forward to the updates.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    5516
    Looks great, and it's cutting nicely... For the money, the Solsylvav plans are very well done, and the performance is very good considering the cost and simple design...

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