I have been here for only 1 month. I've already started building a machine. It's for making signs and such. I hope it works. Here's a photo.
I have been here for only 1 month. I've already started building a machine. It's for making signs and such. I hope it works. Here's a photo.
Is that thing as big as it looks? Ambitious...I'm impressed.
-- Chuck Knight
Yep. The frame is 60 x 63 outer dimensions. All 1515 Tslot. 1/2 aluminum plate. I can stand on the y axis and it slides smooth as ice. The design is completely adjustable and upgradable. This is my first machine. I have a background in technical drawing, electronics, graphic design and was an ASE master auto tech. As long as it can cut simple 2D letters at first, that's all I need to start.
If I could do it again, of course I would change it. Here it is. Still have some driver issues, but it travels.
What things would you do over again, if you don't mind elaborating?
Looks great so far. It's pretty dang big.
Lee
I could have used bearings directly on the T-Slot for linear rails. 8020 sells bearings that slide into each groove or use solid mounted THK rails. 270oz motors are not enough. 1200oz would be much better. Should have just bought a breakout board intstead of building it. Should have bought a new power supply instead of copier surplus. It already fried during testing. But other than that I like it. I can always upgrade it. All you need is a wrench and whole things comes right apart. It's cutting area is just over 48" x 48" x 5", good enough for most signs. As soon as my new PS gets here, I'm going to cut some stuff.
Thanks for the reply and explanation. 4' by 4' is pretty good sized. I noticed also with your design, that you could do 4' by 8' too. I guess you would have to split the gcode or the design or both, but if you used good registration marks, that should do bigger signs well.
I have an old handheld scanner that worked kinda like what I'm talking about. It would take two or three passes of it to get the whole page and then the software would actually stitch the scans together with varying results, but usually pretty good.
My machine will have about 20" by 34" by 6" cutting area. I have the same size motors, 270 oz. I am hoping these will be good enough. How are you driving the motors? Not the controller, but what type screws and gears if any are you using?
Thanks again and I look forward to seeing some cutting edge results.
Lee
Maxx - What servo motors are you using?
270oz Nema23 bipolar, under powered but they work for now. 10 ipm for .5 plywood completelt throughOriginally Posted by JavaDog
what did you use for your slides?? looks like drill rod?? this is kinda what i was going for when i start to build mine. cept i plan on 8020 all around.. what bearings are you using?? what lead screws?? sorry for all the questions
All slides are 20mm hardened rod with bearing pillow blocks. VBX.com? I don't recomend them due to deflection. Use 8020 1530 and get the bearings from 8020 that ride in the T-Slot. You won't have any problems. Lead screws are just plain old 1/2 13tpi allthread until I upgrade to ball screws. It's gets expensive at this lenght. But if I wouldn't have used linear rods, I could have affoarded to buy ball screws. I coupled the motor shafts by using two 1/4 collets and rubber hose with clamps. Buy the nema32 motors they have .5 output shafts. Don't waste you money on the 270oz. The .5 plate is only used to join the T-Slot. THe MDF board is just there so not to cut into the center support. MDF or any other board will sag. So I used T-Slot and a joining plate to add center support. 1515 standard T-Slot will deflect over 3ft.
At least I don't plan on making precision signs cut to +-.001!
.03 is fine. I got a lot to learn. I already have another job to engrave a 4 x 8 sheet of clear acrylic for an LED edge lit sign.
I've heard quite a few people say those won't work.Originally Posted by maxxgraphix
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Which part doesn't work? The rods or the T-Slot bearings?Originally Posted by ger21
The bearings. I think they have too much play, and can bind easily.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
they seemed aweful stiff when i was wacthing that robot compation on diy last weekend. i have looked at the uni-bearings and think that would be the way to go. shim them to tight spec's.. use the uni inside and out they also seem less expensive as the made bearing blocks.