[Novakon]

For those who want to see more of the Novakon Torus PRO Servo in action with the Power Draw Bar (PDB), see the the following link:

Novakon Torus PRO with PDB in action

More to come!

Regards,
Novakon Team

[Hirudin]

Looks good!

I'd like to request the information on the material, speeds, feeds, and bit specs; if available.

[keithmcelhinney]

Looks good!

I'd like to request the information on the material, speeds, feeds, and bit specs; if available.

Second!

[Novakon]

Here is another great high definition video using the Torus PRO. This video is shows the cutting performance only...very nice to see the smooth operation of the servo motors!

Torus PRO with servo drive demo

Regards,
Novakon Team

[Novakon]

Looks good!

I'd like to request the information on the material, speeds, feeds, and bit specs; if available.

We will see what we can find out on the tool parameters for demo video....very impressive results on these machines.

Regards,
Novakon Team

[SCzEngrgGroup]

He's using Solidworks/HSMWorks, which does pretty good HSM toolpaths. HSMWorks is free, but SolidWorks is $$$$. But, Autodesk recently bought HSMWorks, and they are now in beta on a version of HSMWorks for Inventor, which is (reasonably) affordable, and "only" about $1000.

Regards,
Ray L.

[rlockwood]

He's using Solidworks/HSMWorks, which does pretty good HSM toolpaths. HSMWorks is free, but SolidWorks is $$$$. But, Autodesk recently bought HSMWorks, and they are now in beta on a version of HSMWorks for Inventor, which is (reasonably) affordable, and "only" about $1000.

Regards,
Ray L.

Just to clarify.. HSMXpress is free.

HSMWorks is not even close to free, and depending on what version you get, isn't exactly cheap (basically in line with every other CAM package) and I wouldn't expect the FULL inventor version to be any less.

Drawbar looks great, though. I'm not sure how I feel about the small toggle switch for release/tension though. I know you've mentioned proper interlocks for spindle-on operation, etc.. But it seems every draw bar release button i've used requires a decent amount of effort to release (relatively high spring pressure on a push button, covered switch housings) and those that don't (FADAL) have a tendency to be accidentally hit, causing the tool to drop onto the workpiece/table often resulting in a broken tool and a gouge.

I'd assume its not much work to swap to a different switch, even as an enduser, so i'm not terribly worried about it. Just figured i'd bring it up since its still in the beta phase.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Just to clarify.. HSMXpress is free.

HSMWorks is not even close to free, and depending on what version you get, isn't exactly cheap (basically in line with every other CAM package) and I wouldn't expect the FULL inventor version to be any less.

Drawbar looks great, though. I'm not sure how I feel about the small toggle switch for release/tension though. I know you've mentioned proper interlocks for spindle-on operation, etc.. But it seems every draw bar release button i've used requires a decent amount of effort to release (relatively high spring pressure on a push button, covered switch housings) and those that don't (FADAL) have a tendency to be accidentally hit, causing the tool to drop onto the workpiece/table often resulting in a broken tool and a gouge.

I'd assume its not much work to swap to a different switch, even as an enduser, so i'm not terribly worried about it. Just figured i'd bring it up since its still in the beta phase.

The drawbar switches take a pretty firm press to operate - not much chance you'll activate it by accident. Plus, given where the switches are located, I don't see how you could hit it accidentially. If your TTS collet is setup properly, the tool should not fall out, even when the drawbar is loose, unless it's a very heavy tool. I've never once activated the PDB unintentionally.

Regards,
Ray L.

[AUSTINMACHINING]

Hey all,

The PDB has been working very well. I've got to get in the habit of not reaching for wrenches :-). The system is super easy to operate. The real time RPM readout is nice as well. Turns out I was running 5100 RPM when Mach was set up at 6000 RPM. An adjustment in the VFD parameters got me up to 6000, so all the cuts in the video were done before the adjustment. Would like to try now with 6000 RPM and a 3 flute Destiny tool Diamondback rougher ($$). :-)

For those who are interested in the cutting parameters:

Material: 6061-T6

Tool: Hertel 2 flute 3/8" EM .75" LOC
Feed: 40"/min
Max DOC: .5"
Step Over: .1" (HSM method)

Tool: 2 flute 1/8" EM .6" LOC
Feed: 12"/min
Max DOC: .06"
Step Over: .118" (traditional pocketing)

tool: 4 flute 1/4" Ball mill .6" LOC
Feed: 24"/min
Cusp height .0009"
Step Over: .03" (scallop finishing path)

[AUSTINMACHINING]

PDB update.
So,
I've been using the PDB and really liking the convenience, but this was the first time I've tried one of the coolest features... The ability to easily swap from TTS tooling to other R8 shank tooling. I've had this face mill laying around that I've never used due to the hassle of manually switching things around. With the new PDB you just simply hold the Down arrow (release) button enabling the PDB motor to continue turning. The TTS collet drops out. Then insert the R8 tool and hit the Arrow up button once and it's good to go. This is the first time I've ever used a face mill, so not sure about ideal speed/feed, but it came out great. Now that it's so easy to swap between the two systems, I'll be using a face mill a lot more. Here's the video.

3" 4 tooth face mill, 2000 RPM @ 20"/min.

PDB Face Mill - YouTube

[MRM RCModels]

PDB update.
So,
I've been using the PDB and really liking the convenience, but this was the first time I've tried one of the coolest features... The ability to easily swap from TTS tooling to other R8 shank tooling. I've had this face mill laying around that I've never used due to the hassle of manually switching things around. With the new PDB you just simply hold the Down arrow (release) button enabling the PDB motor to continue turning. The TTS collet drops out. Then insert the R8 tool and hit the Arrow up button once and it's good to go. This is the first time I've ever used a face mill, so not sure about ideal speed/feed, but it came out great. Now that it's so easy to swap between the two systems, I'll be using a face mill a lot more. Here's the video.

3" 4 tooth face mill, 2000 RPM @ 20"/min.

PDB Face Mill - YouTube

Bada$$!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 4

[LeeWay]

Looking great. I like it a lot. I have a question though. It looks like the block you were machining is 6063. I recently ordered some 6061 and received 6063 instead.
Man, I was getting terrible results blaming my Gcode and tools and ultimately found the mistake. This stuff was machining like bubble gum. Yucky!

Have you guys tried machining it? I was using full flood coolant and quality tools as well. It would machine outside cuts okay, but any interpolation in small holes less than 1/2" was dreadful.

I will look at the rating stamped on it from now on a bit closer, but 6061 machines like a dream and 6063 like a nightmare.
Sorry to side track here.

[AUSTINMACHINING]

Looking great. I like it a lot. I have a question though. It looks like the block you were machining is 6063. I recently ordered some 6061 and received 6063 instead.
Man, I was getting terrible results blaming my Gcode and tools and ultimately found the mistake. This stuff was machining like bubble gum. Yucky!

Have you guys tried machining it? I was using full flood coolant and quality tools as well. It would machine outside cuts okay, but any interpolation in small holes less than 1/2" was dreadful.

I will look at the rating stamped on it from now on a bit closer, but 6061 machines like a dream and 6063 like a nightmare.
Sorry to side track here.

Funny you should mention that. I didn't notice either until I watched the video. I did order 6061-T6. Unfortunately I faced off all the MFR markings so I really don't know.
Lesson learned.

[CROSSHATCH]

Too me, tool-changes are brutal. Even though I have TTS tooling, the whole process irks me. I have already pulled out my tools and slam them into the work-piece. Great stuff with people coming up with simpler ways to do it.

Good stuff.

-Jason

[LeeWay]

Jason, there is a trick or two to using it correctly.

You need a good height gauge and surface plate for starters. My surface plate is just a small granite square that has been polished. It works fine. Small surface plates are reasonable to purchase too though.
I forget where I bought this height gauge. Maybe Shars? I already had an old one, but this digital keeps the positions I marked. It maintains zero tool position for me. This is key in setting up your offsets.
Without that, you will need a physical tool to set zero with first, then measure the other tool you need to input the offset for.

The next thing is to setup all your tools in your Cam program the same. I use Sheetcam and save the default tool set, so each job uses those tools.

Then it is fairly easy to input your offsets in Mach 3 and save each time. I verify and label each one as well.

It can still be frustrating at times. Like yesterday I started a job with tool 2. Saw that I had forgotten to remove my height setting block, so stopped the program and sent it back to zero. Tool 2 has like a 3 inch offset from tool zero. I removed the block and hit cycle start. It proceeded to add another offset to tool 2 even though it was still on tool 2 when I hit cycle start. Needless to say, that doesn't work correctly and you can break tools easily with that little mistake.

[AUSTINMACHINING]

Got to use the PDB extensively this weekend. Man, things move along so much faster it's great. This mill has been awesome. I made a two piece "keyed" bracket with .001" clearance between the two. The fit came out perfect. The vertical piece measured .499 and the slot in the base part at .500 with my calipers. The surface finish is fantastic. Check out the mirror finish from the face mill. Lovin' it :cheers:

[zaebis]

Ya PDB looks great. Once it is productized I am in. However (!!!) One thing that they should add on the LCD/VFD display is spindle load indicator (0-150%). To do this just cut in C300






... and the best news is that it is not going to add any extra cost to PDB (apart from initial ADC programming of course to output 0-15V as 0 - 150% on the screen)

Spindle load indicator is quite important especially on weak machines.


As soon as they do that I am buying !!!!

[Hirudin]

That's a really good idea zaebis, thanks for pointing it out! It does look like a pretty easy modification. If you hooked a volt meter to AVO and GND you would get a reading of 0 - 10V by default (not 15V, if I'm reading the manual correctly). You could change the value of F2.10 to set the lower limit and change the value of F2.11 to set the upper limit - with a maximum upper limit of 12V.

You'd set the paramter F2.9 to 0001 ("output current"), right?
For F2.9 in the Description of Specific Functions section of the manual (pg. 53) it says...

1：Output current
Amplitude accumulation of AVO is in direct ratio to the output current. F2.11 is twice
rated current of inverter.

I take that to mean that, with default settings (0 - 10V), a reading of 10V would be 200% output current and 5V would be 100% output current.

Is this your understanding as well?

PS
It looks like you would not want to hit 200% ever and 180% would be dangerous. Seems like this could be another place where the firmware could interrupt/e-stop the machine in the interest of safety.

[MRM RCModels]

Ya PDB looks great. Once it is productized I am in. However (!!!) One thing that they should add on the LCD/VFD display is spindle load indicator (0-150%). To do this just cut in C300






... and the best news is that it is not going to add any extra cost to PDB (apart from initial ADC programming of course to output 0-15V as 0 - 150% on the screen)

Spindle load indicator is quite important especially on weak machines.


As soon as they do that I am buying !!!!

You guys are sharp. I was going to pitch this idea to Ray. I bought a 0-10V voltmeter to try out, but might just wait depending on the answer.

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Personally, I'm skeptical of the real-world value of using a simple VFD current meter as a "load meter". It has lots of "Gee-Whiz" appeal, but I suspect it will not give a particularly reliable indication of motor load under many real-world conditions. I think RPM will give you a much more accurate indication - when RPM starts to drop, you know you're nearing the limit. You can also tell a whole lot simply by the sound. However, I will implement it sometime in the next few days, and see if I can make it useful. I did consider this early on, and decided it was not worth pursuing.

Regards,
Ray L.