[runlevel6]

I dont think I have ever seen this idea for a support table before so I though I would throw it out there...

I never really understood the idea of using flat ribs of steel to support the material. They warp, and get cut or welded to and have to be replaced often. So I decided instead to support the material on a grid of 10-32 screws.

I used a 1/2 in sq tube frame and drilled holes in a 4" square pattern. From the bottom of the frame I screwed into coupling nuts resting on the top (these screws are just long enough to go into the coupling nut 1/2 depth). This provides a good stiff base to screw in a shorter screw from the top wihich actually provides the material support. This is actually an inexpesive, but very sturdy and easy to maintain setup since I only have to replace a few damaged screws on the occasion I actually cut into the support screws....and to this day I have not yet had to replace a coupling nut but that will be very easy do if needed.

[ajclay]

With slats that go the full width of machine, it's just a no brainier to put the material on top. I don't cut full sheets all the time. I cut flat material that may only be 3in wide or less on occasion. The flat material is easier to handle.

You have a good design, but in my world it would be problematic. I'm glad you've had good success.

It's hard to tell from the small photos you posted on how you have the screws laid out......

Aj

[LeeWay]

I haven't yet completed mine, but I did consider something similar. I dismissed it too.
How has it been working for you?


I will be cutting a lot of small parts out of thin sheets.
I need the skeleton to stay flat as possible through all the cutting.
I can see that with studs, the skeleton could drop down raising the last part of the sheet to be cut.
Even with THC, that would not be a good thing.

I considered the V cuts too like you see on Plasma Cams. That is a lot of work for little gain really.
With the flats, they can be flipped over once. Then they can be removed and deburred or it can be done on the machine too. Once the slag is ground off, you are good to go again.
My slats are 3/16" by 2.25". They were not too bad cost wise.
I don't expect to be replacing them all that often either.
Just some thoughts on the subject since that has been on my brain lately as well.

[ajclay]

My slats are 1/8 x 4in and are holding up well. You can move the rough ones to a different place on the machine that doesn't see much activity for an option too.

I never flipped them because they wouldn't be as flat as they were when new.

I have removed them once and knocked off slag and hit them with a side grinder and put the unused side back down in the grooves. Just moved the bad ones to different locations.

Also the slats on my machine are 3 inchs apart.... No matter what you do or how you do it..... it's always a give and take result. The bolt or stud idea is a good one, but all in all I believe in my case it isn't worth the trouble.

The THC will adjust, but the edge taper will be more or less depending on how flat the slats are and how much the material warps from the heat.

aj


AJ