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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    22

    V2XT z belt replace

    hi guys
    I am knee deep into my v2xt and was wondering if anyone has ever changed out the Z servo axis belt. I had to replace the topend bearings so i figured that i would replace the Z belt while i had all the top end stuff off and this is when i relised it was going to be much more complicated than i thought.It is torn down to where the spindle thrust bearing nuts are and this is kind of scarin me It looks like you have to remove the spindle bearing retainer and that special (axle hub nut) looking nut. Does anyone know of the correct procedure on how to do this it Looks like it needs a special removing tool like those found on taking apart axles hubs to remove the bearing nut.
    THanks guys and anyone with a v2xt that needs questions awnsered or would be willing to spread some knowledge please go to the link below it is a yahoo group for the v2xt owners.

    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/v2xt/join
    Happy machining!
    Jrrhotrod!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    3028
    Yes, I have replaced more than one. I pulled out the quill and ball nut as an assembly from the top. Put the new belt in, and dropped the assembly back in. Since my bosses charge by the hour, this was the fastest and easiest way to do it.

    George

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    22
    hey George
    thanks for the help on getting to the belt that was alot easier to do than i thought however I Screwed up big. Somehow i got the ballscrew backed out and the top row of bearings came out (OH S#!t).How much do you know about ballscrews I have been reading the posts and seen some articles about reloading them but I may have a problem with missing bearings now.I dont think i lost any but there is always a chance that i did and didnt even relize it.Can these be assembled with a few balls missing? Also i have read that they need to be staggered big to small I was unaware of them being different sized until read the posts and checked mine and they were different sized about a .0005 difference (.125 -.1245) I guess i understand why they need to be staggered now.
    If you have any knowledge on these ballscrews or know were i could get some decent info them could you let me know.
    Thanks
    Jrrhotrod

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    3028
    Oh, boy! Not good news. You are not the first to do this. Usually I hear of some one unscrewing the Y axis ball screw from the nut.
    I suggest calling Mike Fisher at National Precision in Franklin, TN. 615-790-0553. I installed a few machines there and his business is repairing ball screws. He can help you.

    George

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    22
    Hey George thanks for you help again I think i got the ballscrew reassembled properly but I now have another problem with my spindle shutting down and giving me an error msg. "drive fault detected (0,z,y,x) check log" I have wrote up a better explination on the v2 group if you have any Ideas.
    Thanks for your knowledge in the v2 group it is appriciated greatly I think alot of these guys are in the same state Im in Just getting there v2's going so your superior knowledge with the b-ports is very much needed. I have yet to make a chip with mine and am excited to see what this thing will do.
    Thanks
    Jrrhotrod

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    3028
    That is a bit odd. With the side electrical cabinet ope, turn the drives on. If you have the MSI drives, they each have a green and red LED. Green means that you have power. The red means that either there is a fault or the drives are off. When you enable the drives, the red LEDs should go off, it does take the control about half a second to react to a drive fault. In the brief period of time, you may be able to see which LEDs go off and which stay on. The one that never goes off has a fault. It may be generated by the motor, or cable. The drive board monitors that also. If you determine that one does indeed stay on, they swap it with anothe board. If it follows the board, the board needs repair. If it remains with that particular motor, then I would suggest you ohm out the motor cable by comparing it to the other two at the motor wires at the bottom of the drive board. Remember that depending on the vintage of your machine, probably you have the large contactors on the bottom of the cabinet that will need to be pressed in manually to connect the armature for the correct resistance measurement. Do I need to mention that the machine is OFF?

    George

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