[Richards]

As some of you know, I'm still using my mill in manual mode until I re-learn how to be a machinist. Yesterday I had to make a major modification to the mill to get it to hold tolerances within 0.001-inch. The modification isn't something that I took lightly, nor would I suggest that everyone do it. I removed the gib bolts and replaced them with hex-headed bolts that I could get a socket wrench on It was expensive, costing a grand total of $5. Now that I can lock either or both the X and Y axis, bearing pockets cut via my rotary table are exact. Bolt holes are where they ought to be. Life is good again.

Other things that I've done is to add inexpensive digital scales to all axes, ala Robert Warfield. (Thanks Robert. I used a 28-inch scale on the X-axis and a 16-inch scale on the Y-axis. The Y scale sticks out to the front of the machine on the left side so that I can see the readout. If I use the scales for any length of time, I'll move the Y scale out of the way and add a three-axis digital readout from SMW Precision.) I've also turned an aluminum ring to fit the center hole on my Phase-II 8-inch rotary table, and an aluminum plunger to fit a 1/2-inch R8 collet. To set up the rotary table, I only have to place it somewhere near the middle of the table, chuck up the plunger and then crank the X/Y axes until the plunger drops into the ring. Then I tighten the hex head gib bolts - just enough to keep the axes from creeping. My method is accurate to 0.0005 and only takes a minute or so.

Who knows, as time goes on, I may have to spend another $5 to make another major modification to the mill. One thing that I'm sure of is that 90% of the machinists world-wide can only dream of owning a mill as good as the IH. I'm proud to be a member of that exclusive club.

[Loadedagain]

your investment of time in money is darn near over the top! are you sure this is a wise investment?

As some of you know, I'm still using my mill in manual mode until I re-learn how to be a machinist. Yesterday I had to make a major modification to the mill to get it to hold tolerances within 0.001-inch. The modification isn't something that I took lightly, nor would I suggest that everyone do it. I removed the gib bolts and replaced them with hex-headed bolts that I could get a socket wrench on It was expensive, costing a grand total of $5. Now that I can lock either or both the X and Y axis, bearing pockets cut via my rotary table are exact. Bolt holes are where they ought to be. Life is good again.

Other things that I've done is to add inexpensive digital scales to all axes, ala Robert Warfield. (Thanks Robert. I used a 28-inch scale on the X-axis and a 16-inch scale on the Y-axis. The Y scale sticks out to the front of the machine on the left side so that I can see the readout. If I use the scales for any length of time, I'll move the Y scale out of the way and add a three-axis digital readout from SMW Precision.) I've also turned an aluminum ring to fit the center hole on my Phase-II 8-inch rotary table, and an aluminum plunger to fit a 1/2-inch R8 collet. To set up the rotary table, I only have to place it somewhere near the middle of the table, chuck up the plunger and then crank the X/Y axes until the plunger drops into the ring. Then I tighten the hex head gib bolts - just enough to keep the axes from creeping. My method is accurate to 0.0005 and only takes a minute or so.

Who knows, as time goes on, I may have to spend another $5 to make another major modification to the mill. One thing that I'm sure of is that 90% of the machinists world-wide can only dream of owning a mill as good as the IH. I'm proud to be a member of that exclusive club.

[BobWarfield]

Outstanding!

I like your rotary table alignment fixture.

Best,

BW

[lerman]

I did this on my Bridgeport (clone).

Take a length of 3/8 x 1 steel and bolt it to the far edge of the table, sticking up about 1/2 inch, running most of the length of the table. If the table has been machined properly, it should be parallel to the table motion.

Now, whenever I put a fixture on the table, I can just push it against that edge to know that it is square. If I want it further away, I use some parallels before bolting the fixture down.

The only down side is that if the part extends over the back of the table, I have to either space it away, or remove the guide.

I've found that it is accurate and easier than aligning fixtures using an indicator.

Ken

[bohica]

I also did something similar....I used 12"x1" key stock (or as long as you need). This fits nicely diagonally in the t slot on a milling table. Milled three flats on top, drilled for 3/8 hex head bolts and made 3 t slot nuts for these bolts. Then faced the inside edge for a flat surface. I can move this to any slot I need. Seems to be very accurate and can always be refaced as necessary.