Originally Posted by
CNC-Dude
Man, it mega sucks that such a new piece of equipment is not working as it should. Unfortunately, it happens. Here is what I would do after screaming into the heavens for a little bit...
1. Any chance that the stepper drivers had their DIP switch configuration moved during shipping? Yes, I know this is about 110% unlikely but considering it is not working as it should I would check it. On Series II machines, all stepper drivers have the exact same DIP switch configuration. I imagine the same applies for Series III, but I admit this is just a guess.
2. I wouldn't mess with the gibs yet. If Tormach tells you to lose them, then go ahead. Otherwise, I would leave this test more towards the end. The gibs will make stuff tighter, that's for sure, but as to loose that many steps, I am not certain. It would need to be super tight! You are correct in assuming that they were tuned in the factory, but what are the odds that something happened during shipping? Everything is possible, I am afraid.
3. Check that the Z axis stepper driver cabling. Maybe one of the three wires is lose/broken. I haven't done much with 3 phase steppers and I am under the impression that a lose wire would cause the motor to hum so badly you would not be asking the question as a loss of steps matter. But like I said, I would check that as well.
4. I don't think it is a defective motor (motors are not that easy to kill), but a defective driver is usually much more likely. If you are desperate, you could switch the drive and see if the problem follows the drive or the motor. If it follows the drive, then you know what the root cause is right there. If it stays in the axis, then it could be the motor, too much loading, the gibs, something bent, etc.
5. Are you using PP or MACH3? If MACH3, is this a Tormach controller or your own PC? If it is your own PC, then be aware that MACH3 does not play well with every single PC out there. This is yet another area where you can run a gazillion tests. Do note with MACH3 it is highly recommended that you do not have an USB hub, no wireless peripherals and in some cases no network. Definitely do not browse the web while running a part, nor access the PC remotely. The only app on the computer should be the controlling SW.
6. Is your keyboard wired or wireless? I had an issue once with a wireless keyboard. My Y axis would start moving out of nowhere. It was the keyboard. I know because as soon as I switch off the KB, the problem would go away.
7. Make sure your KB is clean. This is another item which has killed me every now and then. If coolant fell through the keys, it is possible there is an intermittent short. Quite the pesky annoyance to troubleshoot...
8. Do you have a jog shuttle (e.g. pendant)? Any chance that chips have fallen under the buttons? Yet another ghost which haunts all of us every now and then.
Some of these items would apply much more once you have used the machine for a long while (i.e. it takes a while to put that many chips or coolant on our keyboards / jog wheel). Yet it is always good to keep them in mind. I am certain there are a few other issues other users will report. These machines are great and incredibly reliable, but there are a few combinations which are just not going to fly. Once you learn to remove them from your particular equation, you should be able to operate for a very long period of time without hiccups.
If after all of this test you still find that there is something wrong, Tormach will go through hoops to get your machine fixed. They are probably one of the best customer service teams we all deal with on a regular basis. Especially when you just bought half a car ;-)