[Starleper1]

I made up a JT33 taper holder for the drill chuck that is supplied with the PM25MV.

Just temporary for now until I get some decent chucks.. The run out is unacceptable (.005")

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Solidworks section view.

Nice work! That helps a lot, but I'm missing one detail:

The "socket" that the moving part of the gripper sits inside - what holds it into the spindle? Is it pressed in there? Or is that the original spindle bore? If so, did you machine in the ramp for the retaining balls?

Regards,
Ray L.

[Starleper1]

The "socket" is a separate part lightly pressed in. I made it .001" over size. My fear was not being able to get it out if i needed, so I purchased a blind hole bearing puller from Harbor Freight which works great.

Again this is not a new concept. Its been around for a long time.

I had the idea about 6months ago and was going to try it on my X2. I never got around to actually doing it though. Well, when I bought this mill I decided it was time to try it.

Scott

[SCzEngrgGroup]

The "socket" is a separate part lightly pressed in. I made it .001" over size. My fear was not being able to get it out if i needed, so I purchased a blind hole bearing puller from Harbor Freight which works great.

Again this is not a new concept. Its been around for a long time.

I had the idea about 6months ago and was going to try it on my X2. I never got around to actually doing it though. Well, when I bought this mill I decided it was time to try it.

Scott

Scott,

Thanks! I know it's not a new idea, but it's the first time I've actually seen it done "in person" as a conversion. I've been considering for some time changing my spindle to CAT30, but that means buying all new holders, which will cost more than the new spindle. This is a nice alternative - simple and cheap. I see no reason existing R8 holders couldn't be cut off, and converted.

Regards,
Ray L.

[Starleper1]

I also thought about cutting them off as well. I was after the v-flange though. I guess you could machine flanges to fit.

You got me thinking.

As cheap as R8 tool holders are it wouldn't hurt to investigate.

Scott

[Starleper1]

After thinking a little, it's all but impossible to use a standard r8 tool holder and retain the v-flange and drive pockets. If all you wanted was to have a manual quick change then it could work.

[robcap]

Nice job on the cat-r8 setup. What type of lathe did you use?

[jalessi]

Starleper1

Nice work, I enjoy following your progress.

Jeff...

[Starleper1]

robcap Nice job on the cat-r8 setup. What type of lathe did you use?

Mazak 14x40 CNC

jalessi Starleper1

Nice work, I enjoy following your progress.

Jeff...

Thanks

[Starleper1]

Here is just a teaser pic for the belt drive.

Spindle Pulley

[Starleper1]

Well unfortantly I had to bail on the CatR8 system. Although it's a great idea and very cool. It just was not practical. Two reasons. First I am a perfectionist and I was having a very difficult time getting an acceptable run out at the tool. Second the ball bearings inside the gripper are really starting to put a beating the pull studs. Which means they would need some type of heat treating. Case hardened at the very least.

It just isn't worth the time and effort when I can buy normal R8 end mill holders for around $12.00 that are rigid and with run out around .0004"

ATC's are cool, but again I don't really need one. I can change a tool with a pneumatic draw bar quicker then an ATC could anyway. So that is the route I am going.

I have a unique design for a pneumatic draw bar that is pretty clever. It is similar to a Kurt Power Lock.

[Bubba]

I hate to hear that, but at least you realized the limitation BEFORE the brown stuff hit the rotating element!

Look forward to your power drawbar

[Starleper1]

I checked into possibly upping the RPM with the trim pot on the control board.

My motor has no markings at all, Voltage, Amps, Wattage etc.. The only indication of anything is the 1KW on the front cover plate, that covers the DRO scale. But who's to say that is accurate.

Anyway I opened up the control box to find a DC motor control board that is very similar to most you will see in applications like this. I put my multimeter on the motor leads and at full tilt it puts 148VDC to the motor. Generally you see 90V motors or 180V motors. So I am assuming it is a 180VDC motor under powered. I really wish they would have marked the motor, to know for sure.

Unfortunately my MAX trim pot was all but turned fully clockwise. I got another 100RPM out of it to bring it to 3200RPM Max.

Another interesting note. I was looking at hoss's motor pics to see what his is rated at on the G0704. It looks to be a 90V motor. The G0704 Manual claims it is a 110V Universal motor.

Universal motors are used a lot in power tools like routers, drills, etc...

They can accept both DC voltage and AC voltage. Not at the same time of course. And are generally higher RPM motors.

Anybody with a Weiss WMD25V that could verify a motor name plate?

~Scott

[arizonavideo]

I have a Weiss 30 but the motor is nameless.

The booklet does say it is a 5000 RPM motor.

[Starleper1]

It's odd they don't mark the motors. Interesting...

[jbcrd]

On my WMD machine the motor is rated:
90VDC, 600WATT, 5000RPM and 7.4amps

Joe

[Starleper1]

Okay, little update.

I got most of the major components done for the power draw bar. Which I am now calling the Quick Draw.

I still have a ways to go before its functional. I have some more machining on the cylinder for guide rods and air ports, as well as making the air switch and dual check valve manifold.

I made up another draw bar that's a little shorter then the previous one because I'm not using the factory spindle cap. It has a brass washer to take the downward force rather then the top of the spindle.











~Scott

[diyengineer]

Looks awesome!!

[sfrankland]

I really like the 'quick draw' design. Is that an butterfly impact driver you are using. You stated that it was an air cylinder and it sort of threw me off. Either way cannot wait to see how it turns out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Starleper1]

Yes it is a butter fly impact. If you look at the picture, the spring seats on the air cylinder.

I'll take a photo with everything apart once its all done.