Very Clean - great looking design!
Very Clean - great looking design!
Nice power db. I'll look forward to seeing it taken apart!
You might consider hardening the drawbar you made. Even with a 12pt socket the wear from engagement is significant. You'll find yourself having to face the nut on top and adjust the pdb travel at least once a year if you don't.
DAMHIK!
Cheers,
BW
Try G-Wizard Machinist's Calculator for free:
http://www.cnccookbook.com/CCGWizard.html
Thanks Bob
I forgot to mention though, I made it from 304SS. It will take more abuse then a normal steel one. Time will tell. Like I said I still have a little ways to go before its usable.
Okay here is a video that might explain a little better how this works. The port on the front will be in parallel with the directional switch so that once air is applied to a given direction the impact wrench will also come down. Pretty clever and clean.
Unfortunately the easy part is done. The switch has a lot more going inside. Not too difficult, just time consuming to make all the intricate parts.
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dvpx2UKGdsY"]YouTube- Power Draw Bar Cylinder[/nomedia]
~Scott
Looks like it should work well and be more compact than the style like I made that you commonly see around.
What's the diameter of the piston and cylinder?
Best,
BW
Try G-Wizard Machinist's Calculator for free:
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Very clean looking build. I have a few ideas floating in the back of my head that I should put to cad for a switch that would allow for this to work with an ATC if a person was so inclined to go that route.
2.500"BobWarfield- What's the diameter of the piston and cylinder?
SolidWorksdiyengineer- What program did you model it in?
Thanks Guys
~Scott
That is awesome, i use S/W 09' and just recently obtained 2010. What do you use to generate tool paths?
cant wait to see it all mounted up and working!!
Okay I finished up all the machining for the entire impact assembly.
Bi-directional check valve.
Completed assembly minus a couple air fittings.
And on the mill.
That's all for now. On to the switch.
~Scott
Any pictures of the inside parts of the switch and the pneumatic cylinder that pulls the wrench down. Again very clean build and cannot wait to see it finished.
Well I made a little progress. This thing called work/customers keeps me from doing the fun stuff.
I finished all the internal parts of the switch. (Quarter for size comparison)
That's all for now
~Scott
I must comment on your very clean work, Scott. Just beautiful-
Dave
Dave->..
Thank you kind Sir.
that is unbelievable!
That's really some nice work, and much more pragmatic than the most of the other ideas out here.
Been lurking since the beginning of this excellent thread - I keep checking in - looking for an update .... What's Up? ...
Regards,
Bill S
I know it's been awhile since I've updated but that doesn't mean I haven't been busy. First of all i finally got a website up and running. Check it out.
BenchTopPrecision.com
I've been really focused on CNC conversion and have made quite a bit of progress. Also with the pneumatic draw bar I was going to use a mechanical switch made from aluminum. I had made the swtich and was unhappy with the result. (I'm picky) So I decided I'm going to do it electrically with solenoid valves and push buttons for "In" and "Out." I'll post pictures later today sometime.
Check back soon.
~Scott
Hi I just joined this site and I am glad I found it. I have the latheMaster LMT25L which is the same as the DM25V I believe. Found a few fixes already and will have questions on a few more. I have the R8 spindle and I put a pin in for the collets, I made it by filing a set screw and a little LocTite. Has anybody made a spindle lock, I have to use a belt wrench to get the collets tight enough.
Thanks