[danmcgee]

I need to make a CNC to cut thin aluminum .0197 thick or .5mm. table would need to be 76 inch long by 36 inch wide. I would want it to be very acurate and repeatable percison every time and does not need to be fast but need to be dead on every time.

I have the plans for the JGRO and the JOE 2006. I have the ability to make the frame out of steel or very thick 2024 alum. need to have good long lasting steppers or servos and able to import files from others with a simple as posible plug and play kind of format.

Anyone out there up to the challange to help me design this thing or have a set of plans that will support what I need so I can get to building the table. It will be used for making aircraft parts for my aircraft.

Any and all help would most appreciated.

Dan

[danmcgee]

Could this be accomplished by just increasing the table size to fit and the gantry size to fit the table with avaible parts sizes taken into account of course for gantry and cutting bed final sizes.

which one would be better suited for this kmodification the JGRO or the Joe 2006 any other design is also welcome. I really need to keep the flex to a very minimum as I am sure you all want to as well so perfection and reapeatability can be accomplished with out much problem.

any ideas? I would also want to know the best motors and and parts to use on the CNC as well as the softwear to get that will import DXF files from others so I can use it liike plug and play within reason of course.

Dan

[Zygoat]

ok, you are asking a lot of questions here. and none of them have a definitive answer. the answer to all of the above would be "which ever works best for you". so what you really need to do is, start reading all the info you can on these forums that pertain to your build. and then decided for yourself what is better. maybe ask a few very specific questions about each component after you get an idea about everything.

also you dont really give a numerical tolerance. are we talking .01mm .1mm 1mm? also really consider how tight the tolerances need to be. most of the time tolerance is .005" for general precision components. for example maybe a button or a switch on your instrument cluster. would it really need to be within .005" probably not. would it matter if it was .100" maybe, cosmetically, but probably not functionally.

now most metal work is done with a moving bed type system (you are in the wood working section by the way) but most people do both.

however, due to the size that you require i think a gantry system is the most practical. others might feel differently.

getting really tight precision on a gantry machine is tough. so we need to figure out how precise you really need to be.

you can check out my build here.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99824

read other builds as well. get ideas from them. you will need to spend considerable time researching everything. i hope you have planned for this.

the alternative would be to buy a machine that suits your needs. this is more expensive but will get you making plane parts much quicker.

[danmcgee]

Yep I guess I didn't it would have to be at least.005 inch thats not to bad almost all the holes will be matched drilled and the plans are also in a 1:1 so most of the parts can be cut and trued together for a perfect fit.

The CNC is so I can get a very clean cut with nice rounded edges and a cleaner finish than I could do by hand.

To be honest the JGRO cutting bed is 22x43.5 would cut most of the some 2000 parts for this aircraft, the skins could be cut by hand but would look beter if cut on the table. The rest of the framing parts will have to be cut by hand and then formed to fit in thier places.

I was just wanting to build the machine large enough to cut the skins and the rest of the parts on one single bed. the widest part is only 24" so a small increase in the bed size with wise could be done and make the bed 6' long. Now the JGRO is made out of MDF and may be strong enough as is or I could make the whole thing out of 2024 aluminum for even more stability.

I have a computer that I could make the controlor out of and can get the hardwear needed to make the machine, just need to know what the size difference would really nned to be as far as drive screws length and material type and I would go at it.

Ideas?

Dan

[Crevice Reamer]

That 6 foot axis will want at least a 3/4" screw--And probably a one inch would be even better.

I recommend these electronics for best precision and reliability:

http://crevicereamer.com/Page__57.html

CR.

[hemsworthlad]

Hi Dan,

There are loads of builds if you look that will easily do what you require.
Gary's machine would lend it's self perfect to a stretched version and strong and would be a relatively easy build if you can work with steel and Ali, look here.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95807

You could look at my build (which needs updating!!) that is a wider gantry style and easily holds the presion that you would need.
While not perfect for your needs it could be modified to do what you need and with a narrow machine cutting the thickness's you are talking a single central screw could be used making things a lot simpler, but to be honest I think Gary's machine would be perfect.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...t=92404&page=4

My advice would be look at lots of other builds and styles of machine and then ask advice and listen to those that have actually built a machine.!!
There are loads of great and experienced people on this site and usually very willing to help, unfortunatly there's also a lot of theorist's, number crunchers and gunner's who know the theory but not the practicality's and pitfalls of a actually building a machine.!!

Good luck and keep firing the questions untill your satisfied.

Dean.

[danmcgee]

That does look perfect Dean thank you. The table would just need to be just a bit longer is all. I sent Gary a PM about his machine you guys are great.

Dan

[skippy]

Firstly, you just said a cnc machine but I'd imagine you are talking about a cnc router?(the cheapest of type of cnc machine to make)
Me, personally, I wouldn't bother. If you really want to make a cnc router then by all means go ahead. However, let's look at your needs: (1) Materials: Principally machining 0.5mm aircraft grade aluminium which is not particularly easy to router due to it's thinness. (2) Quantity: you're planning on doing bits for your plane plus I'd imagine some other bits and pieces seeing as you'll have a router. That's really not a lot of work or cutting. The skins and most other parts of the majority of today's kit planes are cut by waterjet or laser and in the current market the cost of getting it done is quite cheap and doesn't justify the building of a router. However, as I say above, if you really want to make a cnc router then by all means go ahead. Good luck with whatever you decide and if you do decide to build a router, you've come to the right place to learn.
regards
Skippy

[DIYaholic]

danmcgee,
I agree with everyone, hemsworthlad, Crevice Reamer and Zygoat. Considering that I am one of those theorists (having not built a machine yet), you can take my advice with a grain of salt. (chair)You can even hit me with a chair, should I steer you in the wrong direction.

One of the first things you should consider is your budget. Your budget should include, but not limited to:
1) Funds available for the machine build (hardware, mechanicals, motors and drivers, etc.
2) Funds available for computer and software (cad, cam and controller software)
3) Consumables (endmills, router bits), repairs and upgrades
4) Your time & effort VS. Budget (purchased pre-assemblies VS. DIY solutions)
5) Time frame (research, design, constuction, tweaking of machine, learning new software)

I feel these are some of the things you must consider as you research (read) as many threads as possible.

It's kind of obvious that an all steel build should be more ridgid (accurate) than an all MDF build. With that being said, it is critical to have a great design followed by excellent construction techniques, to truely obtain a solid performing machine. The level (quality) of your machine performance is subjective. What works for you, may or may not work for someone else. You need to determine the performance level that you need, then design and build to that level of performance (all while keeping your budget in mind). Any and all design engineering is a series of compromises. It is your goal to maximize pro's (performance) and minimize the con's (funds & time).
Good luck with your research, design and build. Remember to have fun and post lots of pictures and video.:cheers:
EDIT: skippy brings up some good points.

Randy,

[Crevice Reamer]

Hey Dan. Here's some basic CNC info that you might need:

http://crevicereamer.com/Page_2.html

BTW: Welcome to the Zone!

CR.

[Zygoat]

Hey Dan. Here's some basic CNC info that you might need:

http://crevicereamer.com/Page_2.html

BTW: Welcome to the Zone!

CR.

MGP: Manual Pulse Generator.

little ways down the page

should be

mpg just a heads up.

[Crevice Reamer]

MGP: Manual Pulse Generator.

little ways down the page

should be

mpg just a heads up.

Thanks! Good catch.

CR.

[Zygoat]

i got your back

[danmcgee]

Again CR thanks. I think I understand some of the mishaps I have experianced in the past was just due to loss of magic smoke, it all makes sence now. I was also expecting the electronics pack to cost more than $299. That seams real low for the conrols. Of course I do know that is just the stepper controler and not the stepers so lets say $200 each for those then the screws ??? and cables, then there is the cost of the table and gantry build, so I could build this thing for around $2500???

What do you think.

Skippy did have good points but I would use this router for alot of other stuff as well not just to make some simple aircraft parts.

But also keep in mind this is my way of working this idea out withn the use of other more knoweldgable minds in the field to determin if the project is even going to be a go. If I can not find a suitable design to build with a good hardwear and softwear pack then I will not waist my money at all.

But were is the fun in just paying someone else to cut these parts for you when you could do it yourself on the machine you built yourself. This is like my Gyros there are those at there that you could just buy and pay an arm and a leg oh and did I mention the other arm part for them, or build it yourself and then go fly, there is nothing more satifying than to have your own plain and then fly it.

So fellows help me find a good solid table and gantry design to build and a hardwear and sfotwear package to go with it, I will also be building the shoope this is going in so bolting the machine to the floor is ok with me.

Ideas?

Dan

[Crevice Reamer]

With your long axis, and larger screw size, I would recommend the $99 N34 906 motor. The other two axes can use the $49 N23 381s. So about $200 for ALL of the motors. Add the $289 G540, a $60 PSU and about $100 of miscellaneous goodies, for a total electronics cost of about $650.

The G540 is a truly revolutionary product and gives great capability and reliability for much less money than was possible just two years ago.

CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

CR, I am under the assumtion that you sell these items, and if you do that is great thats one less thing I have to figure out.

I will get what you recomend. What do I have to do to my computer? I have an older DELL Dimension desk top that I can dedicate to the CNC. Is there anything I will need to do to this computer? It is stock no bells or whistles. Also what cables will I need to get. And if you have all of those items then thats great to.

Dan.

Sorry, Dan. I don't sell any of those. Keling has most of it though. All of the sources are listed here, just click on the links:

http://crevicereamer.com/Page__57.html

Your computer should be 1 MHZ speed or better, have a parallel port and be running either Windows 2000 or XP. You will need to download and buy at least Mach3 for it, Which Keling offers at a discount with purchases from him.

http://www.machsupport.com/

CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

Hi Dan. It occurs to me that you might like to see such a machine run. This is a commercial router--a little smaller than the one you envision, but uses the G540 electronics:

http://cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72426

Also, You might enjoy this build thread. I would use different electronics, but it's a really good design--Especially as modified in the later stages:

http://cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38220

CR.

[danmcgee]

What do you guys think about useing the MechMate design but on a smaller scale or is this design more then sturdy enought as is, or should I chnage the gantry for better control and stability?

Dan

[danmcgee]

No scratch my last, Gary machine that Dean told me about is a modified Joes 2006, and he sent many very high res pics of his build so I beleive that is what I will build as well. Now all I have to do is work out a set of drawings for the build.

Anyone have the joes already drawn in a autocad or solidworks that could extend the table to 75" long and 28" wide cutting area would have to be 73" long by 24" wide.

would very much appriciate that.

Dan

P.S. I would want to build this out of aluminum or steal and I have the electronics already covered.

[danmcgee]

I have found a set of plans that should produce a stable CNC router that is capable of cutting the aluminum parts I need to cut. Here is the link.

http://www.machinetoolcamp.com/DIY%20CNC%20Routers.htm

It is the DIY CNC Router. Plans are $100 all aluminum construction. Fully ilistrated step by step plans to enclude the electronics wiring.

Any comments or advice in regards to this machine, if not this is the one I will order and build.

Dan