[HankMcSpank]

Subject says it all really - just wondering if anyone had tried milling that suff - it's significantly cheaper than fibre glass PCB board - also, I'm not too keen on the prospect of ihnaling fibre glass dust too often!

this is the stuff I mean...

http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Fas...kw/copper+clad

Comments?

[Jay C]

My take, if it can be submerged in etchant, then it should hold up fine to mechanical etching. Report your results.

[Pandinus]

It looks like it is still a Phenolic Resin lamination (read Formaldehyde,) It just has paper mat base layers rather than glass mat... so actually how much safer one is than the other I'm not sure, but I'd guess your mill/drill tool life would be much better... I still recommend trying not to breathe the dust...

[RomanLini]

That old style PCB warps a lot, and even new PCB will almost certainly be not flat. Glass based PCB is many times flatter because the glass in the composite makes it non-compressable non-shrinkable.

I guess if you get a flat piece (good luck) or make a clamping frame to force it to be flat (probably not hard to make) it's easier to cut than glass and tools should last much longer.

[neilw20]

I made a ring shaped pressure brush that fits over the spindle and the brushes press the PCB down, so warping is no longer an issue.

Actually 2 laser cut exhaust flanges spaced apart by some threaded rods (from clamp set).

Bottom flange has a chopped up broom - five pieces attached to bottom ring.

Very similar to the way a real PCB drilling machine holds down the PCB except that they usually have a live actuated brush that can retract independently.

Using this method, a 0.3mm bit will last all day.
Without it you can't move more than about 10-20mm from the reference point before the board warps upwards, and the fine bit goes too deep and shears off.

Only takes a minute to set this up. Just clamps to the quill.
The PCB only needs to be lined up on a couple of pins. Inline at the right spot is perfect for double sided alignment.
No more tape, clamps, screws or any of that stuff.

I will post a picture when I get time.

[eSilviu]

I made a ring shaped pressure brush that fits over the spindle and the brushes press the PCB down, so warping is no longer an issue.

Actually 2 laser cut exhaust flanges spaced apart by some threaded rods (from clamp set).

Bottom flange has a chopped up broom - five pieces attached to bottom ring.

Very similar to the way a real PCB drilling machine holds down the PCB except that they usually have a live actuated brush that can retract independently.

Using this method, a 0.3mm bit will last all day.
Without it you can't move more than about 10-20mm from the reference point before the board warps upwards, and the fine bit goes too deep and shears off.

Only takes a minute to set this up. Just clamps to the quill.
The PCB only needs to be lined up on a couple of pins. Inline at the right spot is perfect for double sided alignment.
No more tape, clamps, screws or any of that stuff.

I will post a picture when I get time.

yes please, a picture worth like 1k of words

[neilw20]

I will take photos in a week or two.
I must finish this month's production before pulling down existing setup.