I will be I'm still waiting to get the boards and all the components in.
If you want, you can get startedon the cases. They will fit in the ones Romanlini designed on page 4
I will be I'm still waiting to get the boards and all the components in.
If you want, you can get startedon the cases. They will fit in the ones Romanlini designed on page 4
Hmm cast acrylic is somewhat junky but that's all I can find, otherwise I'm completely game for getting this over with(So sick of being paranoid about crashing things and such).
RomanLini and John100
I don't have my machine set-up yet to test these. I did get my PMDX126 in though.
What Breakout boards do you guys have?
I was thinking about maybe sending RomanLini a few of the Single LED Limit Switches, and sending John100 the Set-Up for the Dual LED, have you guys test em for me. You can keep em.
I will still be a few more weeks. I am still awaiting parts to come in.
So, if you two can, send me an address I can ship them too, that is, if you guys would like to test em for me.
I'm using three different PMDX breakout boards, and I like them. Can't remember off hand what the numbers are on them.
Excellent support from these guys.
Don't know where you're located, but I go to the CNC workshop in Michigan almost every summer, and PMDX is always there. Great to talk to Steve (?) and see his wares and pick his brain.
Tom
I'm in WA.....the Great Northwest. Just across the river from Portland.
Michigan is too cold. When I was driving truck, I had to pick up/drop off loads there all the time.
I got the circuit boards in today!
They look great. The silk screening could have been alittle better, but, for the most part they look okay.
They forgot to send the stencils for applying the solder paste. So, I have an email going out to them. That's okay, I can wait. I still have not gotten in all the components yet.
What do you guys think?
They even sent a few extra boards as well.
I just looked at the freetronics website. There boards are bigger, uglier, and do not contain a 3.5mm jack for easy connecting/disconnecting.
Parts & Kits for Arduino Online, Buy Microcontroller Boards, Electronic Components for Arduino - HALL: Hall Effect Magnetic and Proximity Sensor Module - Freetronics
Theres are 21mmx16mm
Mine are 18.01mmx11.4mm -photo #2 - (that includes the 3.5mm jack)
They are asking $9.95 each for those. So I think that $8 each is reasonable.
Twice this week I've had to scrape ice off my windshield when I left for work.Michigan is too cold.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
We have not had any measureable rain here for like 3, maybe 4, months. Suppose to rain this weekend, finally, as of which, the temperature is just now starting to drop.
So you essentially created a board for all your limit and homing switches? (I didn't read the whole thread). Do they connect to your parallel port VIA a splitter(not the correct term) or such? Sorry for the questions, but I'm really wanting to get some limit switches on my machine, and your idea seems to suit my needs.
Nope, Using male/male 5pin mini USB cables, they connect to a mainboard, then from there they connect to your breakout board.
This set-up makes the limit switches (on the machine) light up green, but then when triggered, they light up red. There's external panel mount LED's as well, so you can mount them on your control box. Also has a switch so you can check and make sure that all the switches/LED's are working properly. ($80 / set)
The single LED (with the 3.5mm headphone jack) are the same as RomanLini designed on page 4 of this thread, but I've added a capacitor also so it can help filter out false triggers as someone here suggested doing. This one is only lit up Red when it is triggered, no green light or LED Test switch. ($8 each)
I include everything in the kit except for Mounting screws/stanoffs, housing for limit switches and magnet, and USB male/male cable. You'll have to make your own housings. The LED's for the panel mount LED's come with 16 inches of cable for each one with the LED and ends connected already.
I did a little more research on this vtx1029. It will work. I found a site that has a step through guide on converting the toaster using the PID controller.
So, today, I picked up a nice little toaster oven from wally world. It is a Black and Decker, 1500w, with 4 elements (2 top, 2 bottom). Has a fan for convection heating. That should work pretty well.
I will order the PID controller and relay when I get some more cash and put it together and let you all know how it goes.
As of now though, I am still awaiting components to come in before I can start assembling the boards.
Deal Extreme has some inexpensive PID controllers: temperature controller. Price is right and free shipping. I usually get them within two weeks. I would suggest one of the SSR output versions. They have SSRs and probes too.
bob
My CRP 48 x 48 build http://www.cnczone.com/forums/open_s...3-crp_4x4.html
no need, they are really cheap to buy. Prolly less than the shipping.
Bob, The problem with those at that site, is they are very vague on what they can do. The ones at Auber Instruments have SSR output and Ramp/Soak features, with 30+ programmable timing points. That's what I need for the oven.
+ everything you order from deal extreme takes 6-8 weeks to get. At least that's been my experience.
My CRP 48 x 48 build http://www.cnczone.com/forums/open_s...3-crp_4x4.html
I made a simple aquarium temperature controller with an arduino and some SSRs. The only thing I don't know about is the probe(the ones I used wouldn't handle that kind of heat), past that you should be able to get it done for under $40, and I'm assuming the probe can't be that expensive.
the probes are only like $4. I don't know how to program PIC's, which, I'm assuming you had to when making your arduino temp controller.
The problem is, there is a curve that needs to be followed to properly heat and flow the solder for SMD. I don't know off had, but it like has to ramp up to 400 degrees stay there for 30-60 seconds, then cool down before opening the door and letting heat escape.
If I understood it right, if it cools down to quick, you'll get cold solder joints?
I can do the whole thing for about $150, that's oven and all. And from what I am reading, this set-up will be much better then the cheap reflow ovens for sale on ebay for $252. Just, you don't want to toast your toast or cook anything in it after you've baked your PCB's in it. :P
Got the stencils today to lay the Solder Paste. I am so impressed. They are well made and they came framed with the standard 300x400mm frame. I was not expecting that at all. I was expecting to get 3 stencils that were barely big enough to cover the panelized boards, and would have to use tape to tape the stencils down. I also did NOT expect them to be stainless steel. I thought, for the money, they were just going to be Mylar. They were only $40 each, that's why I expected them to be some cheap Mylar. But they are not!! These are production run Stencils, not Prototype stencils. Will definately order boards again from this place.